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Yay, you helped us a lot by suggesting that we don’t have to worry about riding an ATV if we put on appropriate safety equipment. My cousin and his family plan to try some outdoor activities during their trip to Florida next week. I’ll recommend this article to them so they make further arrangements with a tour company.
Thank you. Though the article is simple and most of us have thought of these, it was enough of a refresher to make me Re-Think and Re-Visit my First-Aid kit I keep onboard.
Insurance is also a topic many never think about. Not just insuring your rig but also liability insurance to cover passengers and others.
Currently using the TYT Radio paired with the Browning NGP Antenna. The radio was programmed and sold by SXS Radios. Excellent performance and Excellent support .
Gary and his team at Gforce are awesome. Gforce went thru my Fox Podium 2.0 shocks. The performance of my shocks is NOW what it should’ve been from the factory.
I have one, and GPS is just ok. Sense Magellan lost the satellite view contract I loaded Gaia and use that. I do like the gauge screen, but for the price, you would be better off buying a tablet and running Gaia or something like it. They really need to bring back the satellite view to make it worthwhile as a competitor to the platforms as well as more available trail downloads.
It is perfect time to make some plans for the future and it is time to be happy. I’ve read this post and if I could I desire to suggest you few interesting things or suggestions. Maybe you can write next articles referring to this article. I wish to read more things about it!
I feel this is one of the most vital info for me. And i am satisfied reading your article. But wanna remark on few general issues, The site style is perfect, the articles is truly excellent : D. Good task, cheers
Very smart businessman. It will be interesting to see how the future of brick-and-mortar playout in the years to come. I have a feeling there will be a day when everything will be ordered online and you will only go to the dealer for repairs.
We currently use the TYT two way radios. They are setup / programmed by SXS RADIOS. They are currently set on the FMS channel frequencies. Do you know if they will work with the COM Radios?
Hey! Quick question that’s totally off topic. Do you know how to make your site mobile friendly? My website looks weird when viewing from my iphone4. I’m trying to find a theme or plugin that might be able to fix this issue. If you have any suggestions, please share. With thanks!
Jose Arturo
I dont know how i feel with those batteries going in flame going down hill or if a piece of wood pierce the batteries ? water gests inside while mudding ⚡️ ☠️
Hunter XJ
Jose Arturo I guess you haven’t seen all the current sxs that burn down have ya lol.
Cephus Hogan
Must be a Biden buggy?
Brick Jf
Ok so we’re just back to Jeeps now!
Kelvin Berg
Batteries are incapsulated. Goodbye snorkels. Goodbye maintenance.
Will Buccieri
Kelvin Berg i work on electric motors all day, Everything needs maintenance and all mechanical parts fail eventually
Wheel bearings and suspension components wear out
Motors are not waterproof and electrical components fail or fault more often than mechanical parts
James Baker
Kelvin Berg Good Bye all day rides.
Rzr Georgia
Goodbye petrol stations, engine,starter, transmission, exhaust, oil and filters, voice
Nick Feller
Rzr Georgia goodbye reliability. Not that we ever had reliability to begin with!
Cassie Goldgehn
I’m excited to see where electric SxS’s go. I enjoy watching technological growth.
Nick Feller
If I can’t hear it, I don’t want it
Brandon L Johnson
Dem prices ??
Anthony Conley
No thank you
Cody Unger
No
Brandon Minick
What about the Brawley with 400hp
May be an image of car, jeep and text
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick 50 k ?
Brandon Minick
Marc Hom it’s 5k more than that with an extended battery!
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick
Brandon Minick
Marc Hom I’m staying with gas until we have no choice but it’s inevitable.
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick I don’t think inevitable. There are just as many drawbacks to electric as fuel . Such as cold weather and electric don’t mix very well . Ask a Tesla owner in the northern climates .
Jeff Bertoni
Keep it
Alain Moran
So charging stations on the trails? Well guess get ready for the golf course.
Greg Flack
A)Id rather someone bring me gas instead of a generator WITH GAS
B )Batteries are heavy and charge don’t last
Kirk Sachs
We are 2-3 major technical innovations away from a practical electric sport sxs. Not worth even considering it yet.
Tom Sardo
Kirk Sachs it would be great now for a lot of people, we both know most don’t even get over 50 miles in a weekend hahahaha.
Janet Waisanen
Kenneth Waisanen
Shane DeLawder
Technology isn’t there yet and ma never be.
Rod Eggleston
Junk keep it
Tom Sardo
That’s pretty cool, would be a much simpler drive line as you only need 2 motors and 4 axle shafts. No belts or gears to deal with. Range isn’t as big an issue as most don’t drive 100+ miles in a day or even weekend. For an around the farm/property … See more
Brandon Minick
Tom Sardo brawley has 4 motors so no axles or any of that stuff to fail.
Jeff Gilroy
Brandon Minick also like $50k MSRP but they probably tear it up. My dealer was saying they get 200 miles on a charge but I bet that’s stretching it.
Brandon Minick
Jeff Gilroy I just want to know how they keep 400hp from breaking itself.
Tom Sardo
Brandon Minick I saw that but it’s also 50k, I was thinking more affordable/practical to appeal to more people.
Like for people who can ride from their house or a place that has power. Long as you can get 50 miles per charge that would work for a … See more
Tom Sardo
Brandon Minick direct drive to the wheel. Nothing to break and that’s peak motor power.
Tom Sardo
Jeff Gilroy realistically I’d say 80% of users would be fine with 50 miles of hard use per charge.
John Befort
Brandon Minick so 4 motors to fail instead?
Jeff Gilroy
Tom Sardo yeah I’d probably agree with you. I’d need a bit more range for what I do.
I’d probably change my mind and sell my soul if I drove one though. They’ve got to be fast as heck.
Brandon Minick
John Befort motors are such a simple machine that it makes them reliable by nature.
Kai Herrmann
John Befort i wouldn’t worry about that. How many years do your electric motor ceiling fans last? 10? 20? Electric motors are very, very reliable and long lasting.
Brandon Minick
Tom Sardo brawley is saying 200 mile range
Kyle Rishor
They weigh more than a car?
Carl Sykes
May be an image of text that says ‘7:16 M Wed Feb Priced at $34,950.00* *Destination and preparation not included 82% Bosco Blue Atomic Green Brawley™ by the numbers* HORSEPOWER 303 lb-ft TORQUE TQU(Ib-ft) (Ib-ft) 360 MILES ON CHARGE (est.) 140’
Wesley Kemp
Junk
Carl Sykes
Higher priced is fully enclosed with heat and AC
William Kahler
Maybe this is Robby Gordons next ponzi scheme lol!
Kai Herrmann
I want one. No engine noise, no cvt, heat and AC, tons of torque for rock crawling. Too bad they’re going to cost as much as a Jeep.
Hunter XJ
Cannot wait to see the electronic world play out, more power, less bullshit. It’s gonna be a good time ?
Here are some comments that were received or at Teryx Nation:
Aaron Corro
42 mile range!?
Ha. That’s a joke…right!?
Ken Winter
Aaron Corro how many miles would it get if ya put tracks on it…… 20
No thanks
Aaron Corro
Ken Winter
20 if you’re lucky!!!
John Devine
Is this the Speed UTV everyone’s talking about?
Randy Krauthamer
Idiotic
James L Syfrett
how this thing going to handle water and mud and other cases rocky tarrain
Joe Allbritten
Lithium Ion battery gets damaged and the thing catches on fire!
Bob Logan
Should be fun on a 100,mile ride…wherr a real teryx would have to tow you home
Daniel Turnage
Some of these guys would still think their hot and loud ?
Jeff Mettille
Daniel Turnage true
Matt Selph
Yall busy talking shit about these but these are just the first of their kind and already doubling and quadrupling the torque of your SXS… I prefer gas to electric but as batteries become more advanced/durable, electric motors are superior… in EVERY application. Look around you.. electric motors everywhere.
Anthony Deeds
Matt Selph coincidence that you have a , “let’s get vaccinated” banner? Maybe, probably not, but maybe.
Matt Selph
Anthony Deeds that’s done as a joke… lol I’m not vaccinated. #pureblood
Anthony Deeds
Matt Selph, your humor is appreciated and therefore makes you an exalted member of this group. That said, the electric motor has a longggg way to go. Unless they make major improvements to longevity, and timely, I’m not quite sold.
Anthony Deeds
I’m am though, extremely hopeful ?♂️ hell, I’m all for it.
Matt Selph
Anthony Deeds I’m not sold either… but the improvements are happening. I’m still putting dinosaur juice in all my motors..
William Smith Dawson
Matt Selph everyday i drive a Tesla very powerful and stage 2 at home while I sleep.300 miles a day. Never had to go to a supercharger yet
Jason R. Swarm
The way we ride we would be electrocuted the first time out. We play in the mud too much for that.
Donaldson Errick
Jason R. Swarm I’d run out of juice to quick crawling on rocks
JT Nicholson
Donaldson Errick me too
Blaze Kaltenbaugh
It would have to be real water tight for me to trust it after seeing all those flooded teslas burn.
Aj Learn
Don’t roll it. Wieght flatten ya
Aj Learn
These are suppose to be off road toys. Not freaking cars. Costs are already ridiculous
Douglas Snider
You do realize that it takes fossil fuels to produce all the components of these electric toys right?
Including the plastic cases the batteries use.
Mankind can’t exist without petroleum and coal.
China knows it… Russia knows it… India knows it…seems the entire world knows it except for the woke stunning and brave crowd.
For every coal mine closed in the United States the other countries are opening up three new plants.
Wake up and smell the gas fumes folks!
Solar panels are maintained by gas powered pressure washers to clean the dirt off the panels…panels made with petroleum products.
Windmills use 50-60 gallons of oil to to lubricate the inner workings in each windmill and needs to be changed at regular intervals.
We are light years away from a futuristic Jetsons scenario..
But don’t let the facts stop you from clicking those ruby slippers together while chanting….”there’s no fuel like renewable fuel” three times!
Hell, it could work, worth a shot I guess. ?
Joseph Casanova
Y’all better enjoy the mud holes now hearing all the motors, soon it’ll be so quiet. All ya gonna hear is radios and people talking.
Edward Berger
I watched my 2yr old drive his power wheel four wheeler across the house last night and thought to myself , he’ll never grow out of the power wheel stage ,
It’ll be bigger power wheels as he gets older and everything is electric ?♂️
150-300 mile range ? Hell we ride 300-500 miles at a time—this would be completely useless…. No charging stations in the middle of no where- besides the electrical grids cant keep up—-complete was of $$$- just more control over us
I am #5 now. I put a lot of effort into this. I would like to thank my mom, my dad, and my 2 cats
The odes 400 is 95% cross compatible with the HONDA Rancher 350.. It says so right on the odes website. I hope you all have happy holidays … I only made an account to post this one piece of information for you all
Definitely a dual rate setup. A tender kit doesn’t improve ride quality and only raises your ride height. What model do you have? Give us a call if you looking for a spring kit, currently we are giving 10% off the cost of a spring kit when installing with our PSM setup (Rebuild/Revalve). I’d advise against the company you are looking at. We have seen multiple customers with shock body damage and setups that run way too soft of spring rates, requiring extensive preload amounts.
My Polaris is already done up, but you guys will be getting my 85′ ATC 250R shock and probably forks as well to go thru and re-set up for my weight and machine setup. Looks like you guys do some real nice stuff.
Odes 800 parts for sell, 2013 but will fit more years and sizes, CD parts and repair manuals for 800/1000 cc lots and lots of info on these machines, and one way clutch bearing, new in pack, this is must have parts for these cats, thanks TR text 352 425 8545 calls won’t be answered, thanks again
I installed this exact one on our camper. I put it on the a-frame for the tongue near the battery box. It works well and gets rid of the constant draw from the fire alarm and Co detector that run all the time. If it were me, I would put it under the seat somewhere fairly close to the battery.
I have never had a Polaris kill my battery, even after sitting for quite a while. Do you have some sort of draw on the battery?
First determine if you want a sport or utility machine (like Ranger v Rzr), then look at any width restrictions you may have. That will help narrow the field down a bit. Everyone fits in these things different, so my best advice is to go sit in and if possible test drive a few. You may find the ergonomics are a quick rule out for one or more. You may find things like power, noise level, etc rule others out. The great news is, you are coming in at a great time in terms of selection. All the brands have a ton to offer these days. I have Polaris now, but would not hesitate to get into something else if it were the right machine.
I very much like these machines in every way but the power department. I skimmed the article and didn’t see any addition of power. I think if they were to add a little more juice to that bad ass Kaw motor, they would have a real contender here.
Went at it again today. Decided to clean and check all calipers to make sure parts were good. Started with rear passenger bleed – good, then driver passenger bleed – good. Cleaned bleeder valve and started front passenger – no fluid. Cleaned bleeder valve and started front driver – no fluid. Cleaned master cylinder “ports”; connected vacuum directly to front master cylinder line – got fluid. Reconnected the front line, started with passenger and still no fluid; same on drivers side.
Very cool. I’ve seen these magnetic lens goggles catching on. I love the quick change lens. I usually run with clear which can suck during a bright sunny day, but ensures I can see if out after dark or the weather changes. I’ll have to give em a shot.
PS….seems like we cant win with clutches this year….
Hi All,
I have a 20014 Dominator 800, X2 side by side UTV. Starts and runs great but when i switch it in gear dies immediately no difference forward or revers it does the same. I can not tell if both clutches should be spinning when in neutral or only the primary clutch should spin when I am in neutral?
Attached is a video of what it does. Notice that it is running in Neutral and BOTH clutches are spinning. ( I though that only the primary should be spinning when in neutral) then i push the lever into 1st High gear – it jumps and Dies immediately.
It’s about an hour for us. They are having a big festival there the weekend of the 25th. Thinking about goin back. they are supposed to have another 70 acers opened for the event.
I think this will become a common theme with powersports manufacturers across the board. The demand for these machines is insane right now. I also cant imagine the profit margins on other products are as large as they are for the SXS’s.
I don’t have the manual on that older Rangers, but I would think if the seal isn’t captured by some sort of lip in the casting it could be replaced using usual techniques. I usually use a flange sealant on the outside diameter of the seals if they are metal on metal. Looks to be a fairly easy swap with the access you have. Keep us posted.
Very nice guys. Im gonna get a set ordered here very soon. I really like this solution for when the kids are with us in the back. Simple and effective!
@Seastacker
Here you go Carl.
We are ready to go for the Polaris General folks – We are happy to give you an option for your passengers and pets. These tested GREAT and are now available – 6 attachment points with the strongest bungees made (they are custom made for us in the pacific northwest) and still allow some air flow for your passengers – while it looks simple – the general has alot of obstructions on its cage and it took us awhile to get it right. as ALWAYS – all material and labor are from this great country – we are the only Net mfr that can say this to my knowledge.
Well I have tender springs that are being delivered today along with high clearance a arms 2″ forward offset A arms. Hoping to get them on by Saturdays ride.
I did shock therepy on my General. I am one that swears that the cost is worth it. Shocks will be in my top 3 mods from this point forward on any machine I get. I will say that the General shocks are decent Fox 2.0, but may not be as good as some shock packages that come standard on many of the RZR models. I cant say with 100% confidence it will make the same level of difference on your machine versus the General.
I have put new tender springs on my XP Pro. I can tell you it has made a world of difference in the ride and was able to get back my ride heights. There are a lot of people that swear by the full dual rate kites but I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra money.
Looking at this PRV system, it seems the dowel is too short and with the clearance, enables dowel to cock a bit in the bore. Add the fluttering when the engine is running, and it quickly wears the alum. bore so it may stick again no matter what the dowel looks like.
A fix may be to make another dowel 2x longer and provide 1/2 the cocking and twice the bearing area. This needs a corresponding spring for proper relief pressure. This is if you do not do the 2 ball method.
I have the plastic windows in my Ranger. After 6 years the windows are very hard to see thru due to scratches. To bad they can’t be easily replaced. I would prefer a plexiglass slide up window that I could replace if I had it to do over.
Hello SXSNation! I live in Michigan during the summer months and am traveling to Arizona for the winter months. My wife and I are both retired and enjoying it very much. We just purchased a 2021 Teryx 4 S LE (Red) and are looking forward to some desert riding and rock picking this coming winter!
.After looking all over the internet for three days for a handle for my tip out windshield decided to use what was available and fix what I had. Apparently, there is no one that sells the handle PN # 5452827 with the springs PN #s 7043894 & 7043895. I had a broken place on the outside edge of the handle where the pin holds the handle on the windshield which also holds the spring in place. That was my priority.
THIS ATTEMPTED REPAIR DID NOT WORK AND BROKE AGAIN ON MY FIRST RIDE. I fixed it by drilling 1/16” hold in both sides of the handle above the break. Then I took a small length of 24-gauge wire and shaped it around the broken area and inserted a ¼” into the holes. That was easy but it would slide off without some support. I used my plastic welder to heat the wire and melt it into the handle than using a bit more plastic I built it up all the way around.
I ended up buying a new handle and bought two packs of springs from Graingers. Once I figured out how the springs were supposed to work the installation of new springs was pretty much a snap.
I compressed the legs of the springs together and held them together with a zip tie. Then with the legs pointing forward I inserted the coil into the handle and pushed / worked the retaining pin into place. Then it was a simple matter of getting the screw into the pin.
WOW. My new handle stays up where it is supposed to and I have a couple spare springs if needed.
Once I figured it out using the old handle I put the new handle in in about 20 or 30 minutes with testing.
For the heater I would install shutoff valves so no fluid runs through the heater core when you don’t want heat.
I also have the Pro XP and the heat can be almost unbearable on hot days. All of the coolant and intercooler lines run through the tunnel and radiate a lot of heat. I pulled my center console and wrapped all the line in insolation. It helped put not like I was hopping. I’m going to try and run a thin bead of caulk along all the seams to see if that will help.
They all have there goo and bad. My best recommendation would be to go and sit in them and drive them if possible. Choose the one that best fits your needs.
Check out https://gritnationsxs.com/ they are one of our sponsors. If they don’t have what you are looking for shot them an email and I’m sure they can help.
I would personally go with the Pro. BUT…I ride Michigan which is more trails that open area. The 64″ is more appealing to me for that sort of use. I know out west it seems the wider the better. Some people seem to prefer the styling of the S better, but I honestly love both. I think the Pro is the next step in the evolution. These are my opinions only and I have not personally driven either to make a direct comparison.
Jburton81 wrote:
Check your front drive shaft, I own a 2017 and I had a rattle, vibration and couldn’t for the life of me find it. Had the engine cover and side cover off wrapping the exhaust and I started the machine. When I revved the engine the rattle I was used to by then was more pronounced. I grabbed the drive shaft, hit the throttle and no rattle. Downside is it’s coming from inside the boot where the shaft slips and I haven’t messed with it. That was my experience anyway. Let me know what you find out
I’m having the same rattle in my 2014 Raider, i know theres alot of slop but have you replaced the driveshaft if so where might ya of gotten it
UPDATE: I installed the Prius water pump and a radiator/fan from a Polaris 500 ATV on the roll cage behind between the seats. All parts bought on Amazon. This thing runs great! The front radiator is still in place. I never touched the existing water pump. I had to put a switch on the UTV for the rear cooling fan. If I leave the fan turned on the SXS will not warm up. I turn it on at 150 degrees and I just leave it on. The temp runs between 165-185, depending on how hard I am running. And the rear radiator looks pretty mean. Now that it is running good, I have no complaints. This thing runs like a beast! My friends can’t believe the way this thing runs through the mud. I have only gotten stuck once.
So far I have noticed a little smoother ride over most of the dirt roads, some gentler ride climbing rocky hills and better clearance. So, I think I like the change.
Might also want to consider repair potential in the field. If the buggy breaks down will you be able to mend it enough to get back to your staging area or back home.
Mine, which is a 19 General 1000, has been starting wonderfully for two years in Winter and Summer. Now its Winter of 2021 and its having some trouble starting when its cold.
Once its warmed up, nothing is wrong. But in the morning, it has to be cranked a bit to get it to fire.
I watched that video that shows the troubleshooting.
Where do I get that PC app and whatever lead he used to plug it into the Polaris’ computer? (And where does that plug in, I couldn’t see where in the video, too small)
He ended up with valve lash, is adjusting valves a big job on these?
Seastacker wrote: No doubt there are different muds. Michigan mud is a mess, but clean up fairly easy. Tennessee mud is like glue and hardens to cement like hardness. I cant recall WV mud, so it must not have been too bad.
The SC mud dries really hard but is not as slick and doesn’t stain the red clay in Oklahoma.
JUS1MO wrote: Like to see a picture of the driver..
The windshield, roof, helmets and rain gear were all covered
I have 2020 XP Pro 4 Ultimate – also looking for insurance – thx for information – having agent look into Foremost. Here is CA not as many options – got quotes from Progressive and Geico – with $1,000 deductible – both were around $1,000 per year. Hoping to get something for better overall pricing – theft and liability are the most important things for me, as I am pretty much past my dumb $#i! days, but saw someone who got t-boned by a buggy this past weekend at the dunes – so there is the “other” dumb $#i! you have to insure for!
The long wheelbase is mostly a disadvantage on tight trails.
With large tires and good ground clearance the longer wheelbase will usually go places easier than the shorter ones and larger is more stable on steep inclines.
The Mule Pro FXT doesn’t have a front locker so it would not be a choice for me for rock crawling. For that you will be much happier with a sport with its much better suspension and design more suited for that type of terrain.
The Talon… . They have about as many problems as everyone else, some of them serious. Not telling you to dismiss them but research is in order just so you know up front. Low range problems, differential seals, bad air intake location, harsh ride, etc.
If you want a shorter four seat you might consider the Yamaha Wolverine RMax 1000 or Kawasaki Teryx.
The RMax is new this year and is very capable and a good all around rig and is suited very well for the type of riding you want to do. The Wolverine X4 850 is the same length and is a good vehicle but the suspension is not as good as the RMax.
The Teryx is very capable but an older design and not as refined as some of the newer vehicles.
The Can Am Sport max is a nice capable rig and seems to be very reliable. The Maverick X3 models might be what you are looking for also.
The RZR vehicles are very capable and more reliable than you might think.
Like Seastacker said, a comparison ride in as many different vehicles as you can will help you in the long run.
Sounds good Carl! Havasu is a wonderful place to go riding during those cold winters in Michigan! 🙂 (Just don’t go to Havasu during the summer months as it is too hot here to do anything other than stay inside with the AC on!) 😮
Don’t let a more utility looking machine fool ya. Most are very capable. I suggest driving all you are considering. I wouldn’t say I “rock crawl”, but I have been to Royal Blue as well as a part of Wind Rock in Tennessee and never felt like the 4 seater held me back. Clearly there are limitations to the longer wheel base, but I guess that depends what you mean by rock crawl. I have seen some 4 seaters out west with the right tires so some downright crazy stuff!
I have a General 4 which is long. I have seldom felt the length to be an issue. I have never specifically ridden PA, but I have ridden extensively in MI and have also been on some tight, technical trails in TN.
Very nice! Amazing what a difference shocks can make. Shock improvements are at the top of my list of mods now after riding with Shock Therepy treatment for a while. It can transform a machine.
Agree w/ Pede, Start with clutches and belt. Hit the sheaves with scotch brite. Make sure belt is ok visually. It may not be a bad idea to throw the spare belt on there to rule that out. If you dont have a spare, you will need one anyway. Good to start w/ basics.
Cant picture a 6 seater doing much rock crawling, in fact even a 4 seat with that long wheelbase. I see how difficult it has been with my 2 seat utv. The longer wheel base could cause issues in my opinion.
I never worry about friends going along, they can ride there own machine!!
I’m a new owner of a 2018 Dominator 800 LT X4, I’m also looking for somewhere to get parts, the Odes website has a few things but when I finally got to talk to someone was told they don’t stock parts for anything older than a 2019. They gave me a number for a shop in Mo. The number is 573-346-6867 they gave me the belt# and I was able to cross reference it and get it locally, if someone knows of a site I also would greatly appreciate the info.
DieselFume wrote: Through some more trial and error, the two ball bearing seems to be a success on two of the rangers I’ve got it on currently.
One issue I’m having with it is with cold start up- seems to have fairly high oil pressure right away, but after running 10/20 seconds it seem to be a non issue.
Put the installation and discussion into video form! Enjoy-
I know this is an old thread but I was curious if the ball bearings held up and resolved the dowel sticking issue. I have a 12 RZR 800 and I’ve been considering using the ball bearings for piece of mind. I’ve read all kinds of horror stories of the valve sticking and blowing motors.
I live fairly close to the Rodman Dam trailhead (Lake Ocklawaha) so we usually do the big loop around Lake Delancy. Not a lot of mud but plenty of soft sand and sugar sand. I use the Polaris Ride command app to keep track of where I’m at and it has been spot on accurate for a map out there. Last couple of weeks there has been some trail maintenance crews in random spots.
I think you made a good choice to move off FB or the “Demdumbdownbook”. I have been a member here since SXS started. I will be lookin forward to your ride announcements, reports and especially pictures.
No doubt there are different muds. Michigan mud is a mess, but clean up fairly easy. Tennessee mud is like glue and hardens to cement like hardness. I cant recall WV mud, so it must not have been too bad.
i also have a cfmoto 800 trail. I looked around for a month or so at can am, polaris, yamaha and cfmoto. being i never heard about cfmoto i was a little leary. but after researching their product and joining a few of the forums i decided to pull the trigger. i have been very pleased with the performance. it will go anywhere and do anything the other brands will do. yes the aftermarket is a little to be desired, but i believe that will change in the next year or so, being they are starting to become more popular in the US. the other motivating factor to buying cfmoto over polaris or can am was all the extras you get with their manchines. to add a roof, doors, differential lock, adjustable gas shocks, winch and mirrors to the other brands was nearly $4000 more. cfmoto also comes with a 1 year warranty where the others are 6 months. all machines have their issues, however. good luck on your decision.
Many hours with a pressure washer and it is mostly clean…still some hidden places of mud popping up. The best thing is my wife was at least a 50% contributor to the state of the machine. I have been off road in some form most of my life and have never experienced mud like this. It was truly astonishing.
Holy cow….it has to be close. Now you get to explore the joy of cleaning one of these things which is one of the “joys” of ownership. May as well get it all broke in right! lol
That’s not a bad deal. I pay $550 a year for both my General and Honda 250R. Most of the cost is in the General. Seems like a reasonable deal. Well worth the cost to protect the investment.
As I stated earlier, it all depends on where you live. Those ratws might be good for your area, just glad I dont live there!! Gotta have the insurance though, especially the liability stuff…
If you can go with glass for the windshield as long as the weight is not an issue. I have a plain polycarb windshield but it must be cared for properly to reduce scratching, I worked with a plastic machining company for 15 yrs and learned how to care for polycarb to slow down the scratching. My windshield is more than 3 yrs old and not enough scatches yet to even notice when looking thru it. However glass is so much easier! No glass windshield were availiable for my machine so I just went with my experience and made my own polycarb folding unit. Being plastic, I do fold down top half when open trailering, but now no need to worry as I went to an enclosed trailer, now….no worries mate!
Same here, my plow blade has 2 loops on the push tubes to attach the winch clip to.
The rear loop allows the entire plow unit to balance front to back to make the quick attach feature simple, once attached I move the clip to the front loop for a better pull angle. My synthetic rope has a sleeve over the first 6 ft to reduce wear from constant in and out while plowing. Can be easily removed for summer mudding if wanted, but hasnt caused me any issues yet. If your going to do alot of plowing consider a strap, they are easier on the system! I am not fortunate enough to get enough snow to worry about it.
Both plows I have had (Polaris and now a Kolpin) have had loops to hook the winch cable too. On my Ranger I had a synth rope and did use a fairlead pully to avoid wear. On my current set up I have a steel cable and am just using the normal fairlead with no issue. The reality for me personally is I plow 8-10 times a winter, so the wear isn’t as much of a concern for me. If I was out daily, I would approach it different.
I trailered 4 hours with the doors. The front ones are held in with friction, so I made sure the Velcro was done up to hold them in. The rears have straps that hold them down. They are made of a nice heavy canvas and marine type Eisen glass. I feel like the zippers could be beefier, but they seem to work.
Not sure it would want to do it all the time, but they trailered ok.
In terms of the rear panel, I got poly but hard coat. I would not get poly without having the hard coating on it. The regular just scratches instantly. I did it mostly for weight and cost.
God information, thanks!
Do you have any issues with the upper canvas doors as far as trailering? Was concerned about getting torn/ripped or do they remove easily enough where it wouldn’t be an issue? I plan on getting both front and rear glass shields. I am contemplating poly for the rear? Lighter, easier to handle. I would think that the rear isn’t as vulnerable to scratches, etc.
I have a Side By Customs front vented windshield. Love the glass and the wiper. The venting works well.
I have a 22′ pontoon on a bunk trailer and I feel like it would be pretty big/ heavy to launch. I do launch PWC’s with it all the time.
I also have the heater and upper canvas doors. The heater is great. Upper canvas doors are ok and serve the function. Easy to remove for summer riding. Check out my build thread and let me know if you have any questions on anything I did to it.
Your priorities are correct !! Most machines are made well today, so get the one you can afford and are comfortable with. Definetly take a test drive, if dealer wont let you….find another dealer!
We did consider the Rmax – side restraint makes entry/exit difficult , First year model? Pricey! Accessories not as good.
No availability! Couldn’t even find one to test drive. We are near 60. Not going to be “pounding” the trails. Priority was comfort and fit!
X2 on having a good dealer!! Neighbor just bought his second General, really liked the first one. New one has all the fancy stuff, ouch on th price tag, hasnt had it long enough to use all the fancy stuff yet. Did learn how the rear camera worked when he stopped to pee with a female rider along…..yep….showed it off !
His only complaint is all the plastic stuff like bushings in A arms on a 20k plus machine. Yep your riding on plastic bushings at most pivot points…..at least my Kymco has all sealed roller bearings on suspension arms.
They like there Generals same as most who own them, definetly fast…..
Wiper should work on any glass. Most dealers should be able to get aftermarket stuff, letting them install is up to you and depends on your mechanical skills to DYI, if you got to go to youtube for this, I’d probably let them do it.
From what I hear OEM is the best bet for fit, or Koplin which is owned by Polaris. I would think it would pull the boat, my 900 will pull a pickup, but a lot of variables, load on boat and loading ramp are a couple that comes to mind.
I was reading a thread on ride command the other day, it ain’t cheap but seems to come with other things in the package and can’t remember everything but someone said cameras.
A lot of enjoyment into this market is based on your dealer, hopefully you got a good one.
I’m new to forums and new to the SXS ownership world but insurance what I do for a living so I understand the pain and frustration. As has been suggested, separate the toys from the other stuff (home, auto, boat, life) only because it’s more likely to have an issue with SXS than your auto and it will affect your rates. I’m not in your state so I can’t directly assist but I’ve insured several friends with Progressive…they rely heavily on credit and driver history so it can out whack quickly if any history exists. Our best option however has been with Foremost Insurance; I’d say look them up online and see if there is an Agent locator tab, prices have always been the best we’ve seen. One easy tool to help manage cost is the deductible, if you aren’t turning in a claim for less than 2,500 in damage, don’t carry a $250 or $500 deductible…. Good luck and enjoy,
For sure! We loved the Pioneer but it was time for more comfort and power, took the wife out and she is loving how much better the suspension is already
I think the drop in truck bed liners are the same or similar material. We used to cut old ones up and use them as ski guides/ trailer protectors for our snowmobile trailers. Part of the reason we used that materials is it held up to carbide wear bars and was very slick. The ribs in the material also sort of grabbed and held the skis too.
Modified the shifter.Did some trimming to the right side of the notch to make is easier to shift. It’s very much nicer. Mad a new handle for it also didn’t have one when I got. Used a piece of hard nylon are some sort plastic from a bow that’s for a end dump that hold the tarp from sagging down.
Been in your shoes a number of years back. My one accident raised my auto ins but that is when I seoerated my toys from the auto ins company. My boat is thru the house ins and my SxS has its own policy. While it may save to bundle most of the time, if you have one black mark, it might pay to seperate your policies. Do get lots of quotes as you never know which company wants new buisness. Rates all come down to how many claims a particular ins company has had in the past couple years in your state/area.
Thanks for the input. I guess living in South Carolina and having 1 at fault accident 6 months ago (1st one in 37 years) is costing me. I think we are going with a higher deductible policy so I am covered for the really big stuff. Markel and Foremost are competitive; probably going with Foremost.
You might try Markel.
I had a large claim 5 years ago and they paid off no problem.
Their rates are very reasonable but you will need to go to their site and fill in the blanks to get a quote.
I have three sxs’s insured through them full coverage. Motorcycle Insurance | Event Insurance | Bicycle Insurance | Markel
My personal opinion is that these things are just too expensive to not have coverage on regardless of the loan status. They total out easy from roll overs and frame damage (think catching a tire on a tree, frames bend easy at a-arms). Think garages, barns, structures burning down as well. It may be one in a thousand, but when it happens, its bad. Many of us have about as much into them as a decent car. Even if I don’t rely on it for day to day transport, the financial investment is substantial. If you are in a position to absorb the amount you have into it from a loss, then I would say you are good to go….just get really good liability coverage or ensure liability is covered under an umbrella policy you may carry. If you cant absorb it, shop around for a good rate for full coverage. You will find rates vary greatly. Also, when you get the policy make sure you have enough accessory coverage to cover what you plan to have into it. Many policies come with $3k in accessory but that can be exhausted VERY quickly.
I bought my Razor 2 years ago and have it insured full coverage through State Farm for just under $400 a year with a $500 deductable. Bought my yxz a few months ago and State Farm wanted double that for the same coverage. My agent told me that State Farm is not really interested in insuring them anymore. Too many losers with no skill doing stupid stuff and then claiming insurance. So got about the same coverage from Allstate for about the same price. Paid cash for both, my rule is if it’s worth over 10k it gets full coverage.
I might also add, that many riding places do require insurance coverage and require proof. Your performance machine is gonna cost more than my utility machine but….I would not be without it…just in case….!
I am in Ohio, so not sure how our rates are comlared to your state. In Ohio we get ” motorcycle ins with an “offroad” addition.
Here I carry full coverage, 50/100k just like a car. My SxS policy if thru a different company than my auto or home. Mine is a 250 deductable for all. I do have an excellent driving record and I am 70 yrs old. In my area I can ride on back roads so ins is a must. I get my ins thru Safeco at 100 for a full year on my 2015 Kymco 450i.
I don’t do a ton of rocking, but I would think some bead locks, UHMW skids, tree kickers/ nerf bars. A lot of guys upgrade the cages. All in all I think the Pro’s are super well outfitted from the factory. If you plan any power upgrades, clutching follows that. It also follows any big jump in tire size. Personally I like to have a basic enclosure like roof, windshield and back panel (not sure what the ultimate comes with). So may ways to take it. Take a look at my build thread on my General. If you have any questions or want more info on what I’ve done, I’d be happy to share.
My build was mainly for Michigan trail riding with an occasional trip to TN/ WV, etc. Basically a good all around machine.
How long has it been since the filter was changed? Ebay seller motorcycledoctor will have the fuel filter you need. There are two sizes to choose from. I used a KN-152 oil filter on my 800cc Dominator, but is yours the same engine config?
I know a lot of people use them because they are ULTRA tough. The material is also “slippery”, so you are less prone to getting hung up on rocks and similar. I would like to get a set eventually, but where I primarily ride its not quite as needed as down south. Ive rode both WV and TN and 100% understand why they are basically required down there.
Hello. This is my first post on this forum. I have owned a 2017 Dominator 800 for about a year, and the only trouble i have had was when the relay that controls the radiator fan failed. Easy fix. I have just completed an oil change. There is a lot of good info at this site: Warranties-Manuals-Service – ATV Utv
PS; I used a K&N KN-152 filter. It’s a cartridge type. Also, get some push pin pliers to extract the many pins that hold the cowling down. The T shift handle unscrews.
I have not had any experience with that material as a skid plate, but have had lots of experience with that material!! Let me say that stuff is tough and strong. Easy to machine but very messy when machining!
I would think it would be an excellent material to use, very difficult to rip or tear if at least 3/8″ thick. It is a heavy material, more than aluminum but veey slippery to glide over rocks and logs, also retains memory unlike alum or steel. Been looking into making a set for my machine.
Very nice! I’m with Ken….no snow to speak of here in SE Michigan. I’m a little bummed because it will be my first year with both a heater and full doors when plowing. I had the heater last year and it was nice, but I figured with the doors I would be in there in a t shirt plowing away :eek::)
Glad they owned up to it. The beads should def not squeeze out of the ring. I’ve only done one set of bead locks myself and had no issue at the bead at all. Ive heard of some tires having out of round issues, but cant recall if they were SATV or not.
Not only is it difficult to find repair people, finding trustworthy people is even more difficult!! For those reasons most of us do our own work when ever possible.
A friend of mine has one and the X xc is a deluxe rig with smart locker and beadlocks and 29″ tires and lots of other upgrades.
The sway bars on those are really stiff and they do lots better on technical stuff without them. Just something to keep in mind if you do that type of riding.
rocksalot wrote: Congratulations.
Good choice.
I think you will really enjoy it.
I am totally pumped. It is more machine than I originally set out to buy. Still not over the price tag but I’m sure the 1st trip out will help relieve the shock a little.
Seastacker wrote: Awesome choice! I am not a Can Am Expert….is that a 60 or a 64″ wide machine? Congrats! I see a lot of people use hard sided tool boxes and just ratchet strap them down. All sorts of shapes and sizes to fit your needs and the machine. Nothing wrong with going cheap and simple and upgraded if the need is there.
It’s 64″ wide. A pic will be added when I get it. Below is a link to a review of the exact one I got.
Thanks. I found someone on youtube with the same setup and they said they’d be with the machine and measure it for me today. I’ll edit this thread title once I get themeasurements and post that here in case anyone else is searching in the future.
I’m not sure on any changes between 2019 and 2020. Did you try calling SATV? They may just not have updated their site or may be working on a way to make them work.
Hopefully someone will chime in, but i havnt seen too many members with track set ups. Either way, post back to maybe help out the next guy. I watch OstaCruiser on You Tube sometimes, he has a pretty sweet tracked out machine. Fun stuff to watch.
Awesome choice! I am not a Can Am Expert….is that a 60 or a 64″ wide machine? Congrats! I see a lot of people use hard sided tool boxes and just ratchet strap them down. All sorts of shapes and sizes to fit your needs and the machine. Nothing wrong with going cheap and simple and upgraded if the need is there.
Made the plunge into a new 2020 Maverick sport X XC. Dealership had it on the floor for a while so I got, what consider, a pretty good deal. They’re installing a winch and windshield tomorrow and I’ll pick it up Thursday!
January 3. This as an area of BLM land just north of Lovell Wyoming.
The below photo you can see the Big Horn Mountains out in the distance in front of the KRX and the Prior Mountains in the distance behind.
Below off in the distance are the Beartooth Mountains. In the dead center on the horizon is Heart Mountain near Cody Wyoming. Home of the WWII era Heart Mountain Japanese Relocation Center.
I finally gotten the almost done finished the rear window yesterday afternoon with a piece of lexon leftovers from the firewall of the 2wd pulling truck. The role gage is all wrapped with the same vinyl as I made the top out of.i have to make the window frames for the stock doors.
You probably already picked up your sxs but I would just take the windshield right off. There all pretty easy to take off fast. I not only do it to save it from getting damaged but it will have much less drag on the truck. It will make a difference in gas mileage especially if you’re going on a long haul.
I added the “plug n play” fan switch to my 2013 Ranger 900. It was easy and works perfect. It is a “hot” switch that will operate the fan when the ignition switch is off. This feature had positive and negative results. The negative is, if you forget to shut it down, prepare to jump off you ride the next time you turn the key. 🙂
Any highway trip over a few miles and I always remove my windshield. I don’t want the road debris marring it and I don’t like the bow it gets in it at 65 or 70 mph. My roof is secured well (I think) and I’ve never thought about strapping it down. Reading about these roof blow-off issues I’ll check my roof tomorrow. As someone posted, it’s too easy to just run a strap from front to rear as insurance if it’s not really secured.
Regarding accessories, if it’s something I don’t want I usually value it at zero. The accessories I want are the fairly universal ones already mentioned. Roof, windshield (either foldable or easily removalable) winch, a front wheel & tire for a spare I’d pay for if I didn’t already have one. Obviously, in South Georgia and Florida we don’t see a lot of cabs and plows, so I can’t help valuing those items. I’m at the age I’d pay for EPS. (Like a lot of things, once you’ve enjoyed it, you miss it when it’s gone.) 🙂
Last tidbit. Only offer what it’s worth to you. What someone else paid or added to a machine doesn’t affect the value to you. I’m aware that what many might consider a low-ball offer can annoy some people, so I always say “I’m not arguing value, I’m just limited by my budget.” Plus, you never know someone’s situation. They may have a deal to buy something pending and feel the MUST sell this unit today.
The Odes windshiled is made out of standard plexiglass, that easily scratches. The Lexan windshields are better, but you need to take care of them. Yes, safety glass is better, but there are issues there, as well. Most do not fold down. If it is up all the time, you are continually having to clean it.
I think all are great machines. While the Honda trans is mechanical and could be costly to repair, I have heard of no widespread issues with it other than some very early model growing pains. As with most Honda stuff, its not the highest performance, but seems to be very reliable. I find Kaw stuff to be very heavy built compared to the competition in general.
I have personally had a Ranger and loved it!
I don’t think I have been much help up to this point.
My best advice is go sit in and drive all machines that make it to your top 3. That may quickly rule out one or more or make one rise to the top. Thinks like ergonomics, noise, power, ride quality can quickly rule out one machine or another. You are in a good time to be shopping (other than the white hot market demand) as all of the manufacturers have some great offerings out there.
Rhoda…..Thought I might get back after a long pause working on cabin!
Have been riding trails around continental devide there are many to choose from that go on for miles and miles very steep and of course millions of large rocks.Glad I decided on lift kit! ..With the exception of a front shock seaping oil. The mule has been flawless and very reliable think it was a great choice just wish it had a tad more power .I saw that there is a new member with a 2017 gasoline turbo unit but not any info whatsoever on the. Ride itself. Sure would like to know where to get turbo kit for one of these ? Do you still have yours? How has it held up ?
Mark
More and more campgrounds have an access route to the closest trail system. As the popularity grows, so does acess to the trail system from campgrounds, and many towns are allowing acess to trails by riding on streets or right aways.
I have a small motorhome and an enclosed trailer to haul my SxS, works great! Can tow to trail head if needed and have a place to come back to for lunch or a shower! Most places I have been to have trail acess from the campground. I do most of my riding in Ohio and Michigan.
This is a stupid market right now, people asking what the got in them and getting it. In the real world, accessories are valued at 50%, even then not everything has value, cab’s are good, windshields and tops also, bout anything that encloses, after that maybe a winch or a plow. Stay away from lifts and bigger tires from aftermarket, some do have them factory, unless your into mudding. I wouldn’t worry to much about 50in, most places are realizing the need to go wider trails or die.
How do you travel with you’re machine? We have a travel trailer and have looked at the toy haulers but it seems to me that they are only useful if you are camping in a location that you can ride your sxs from the campsite otherwise you need a trailer to get to the trail.
JOE YOUNT wrote: Why not consider renting a SXS when you ge to to an area you want to ride just to find out if it is something you want?
We rented a Yamaha a couple of years ago and it was a blast. It was more utility in nature. We visited our son in Colorado this summer and he has a Cam Am Mav 4-seater and it was a blast. We had 3 wheelers years ago and have missed them ever since we got rid of them in the early 90s. It’s really a matter of are we going to be able to use it enough to make it worth having it. I think my wife and I have concluded it’s worth trying and have decided a 50″ machine will give us the best chance of using it wherever we go with it.
Honda would be my last choice with the mechanical tranny….very expensive to repair if/when a problem occurs. Belts are so much cheaper! The 500 Pioneer is pretty slow when compared to the others
I talked to Brent at PBO Powersports in Phoenix about my rear differential problem. He asked me how much oil I put in it. I told him that after I drained the oil I replaced it with new oil and filled it until it ran out of the threaded hole. It took a quart for this to happen. He said that was too much oil, and they don’t come with that much in them. He is trying to find out how much should be installed. My owners manual doesn’t give any fluid amount information at all. It doesn’t even have the right engine in it. If anybody knows the right amount, or has a book that says, please let me know.
I’m feeling a little better about my leak as it may just be pumping out the excess.
I’m mainly a dirt/dual sport bike rider, but my wife has started to show some interest in a SxS. I’m considering starting to look at one, but I know almost nothing about them. Looking for some recommendations and justification for those recommendations.
– 2 seats
– 50 – 60 inches – due to trail limitations near me – 60 inch would be fine for almost all trails but we do have some 50″ only. Would be nice to be able to do all trails, but I’m open to a 60″ if they’re a lot better than a 50″ for whatever reason.
– It does not need to be the newest or fastest. I just want something that will be good for me, my wife, and some family members. We’re not aggressive riders and will be trail riding at a pretty leisurely pace, but looking for something that will be plenty capable for the local ATV parks and have some level of fun factor where we can push it a little and maybe do some light jumps.
These are the machines I’ve been leaning towards based on this info:
– Can-Am Maverick Trail 1000
– Polaris RZR 900 S/Trail
– Polaris RZR XP
I’m sure there are many other great options I’m failing to consider.
So, what did you decide to buy? I’m in a similar position right now.
Nothing specific on that exact model, but Keystones are typically middle of the road. I would be looking for roof maintenance like already noted. Water is what kills these things. Also, being a 2016, look at the tires. If not done already, it is due very soon. There is a good chance the stock tires are junk and right on the edge of the weight capacity of the unit. I recommend people go up a load rating if they are close. I say this, because a good set of tires on a large toy hauler can be spendy (which is why so many end up with junky tires).
Try this place. I didn’t see any 900 beds, but they do have a few for other machines for about $300 USD. May be worth a call in case its not listed. I would think the cost of shipping to Spain would make it cost prohibitive though just based on the size and the fact it would likely go freight. May be worth a call though, never know.
89sandman wrote: Always nice to see what different parts of the country look like where people are riding. I’ll start with these pics from todays ride in Southern Oregon.
WOW! Beautiful!
wgarcar1 wrote: Central florida, freezing 65°, Bull Creek WMA (little creek) state land, passable at 3 ft.deep after receding 3.5 ft. Since August/September rains.
[emoji246] Alligators, got to share the road, be nice, sit stay good boy, coming through, thanks for not eating me, resume.
Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Also beautiful ……but gators? Nope
Its a balmy 15* here in Michigan this morning. Not any riding to report. I did get the plow on a few weeks ago. Went from trail mode to plow mode.
Wife is picking up a new CFMoto Zforce 500 this week and we are planning a trip to Ashland Resort in Feb 2021 time frame. Of course, I’ll be on my RZR.
Also, from the inside, look at the interior walls carefully with a light. If you see “pimple” like bumps on the interior walls this is mold under the interior paper and luan. Again don’t walk away, run.
I’ve been RVing for over 10 years. The first thing to look out for is water penetration from the roof and windows. Physically get up on the roof and and look at the roof membrane for tears, then look at all the caulking for dryness. Water will penetrate here and will do extensive damage. Also look at the sidewalls for any bubbling, this is delamination. If in doubt walk away. YouTube “sidewall delamination”.
RWB713 wrote: So, Time for an somewhat unfortunate update about my tire situation. To the point of it, there was a manufacturing defect in the set of tires I got, and after an extensive amount of research and digging on the part of Erik, and many others at Super ATV, it’s not something that can currently be resolved, so I will be switching to a 34x10x14 Sticky RT Warrior for the time being. I will post a review of those tires as well after I get them mounted and out on the trail. The issue was only confined specifically to the 34x10x14 Sticky XT Warrior, all other sizes and tread compounds are not effected. Erik and SuperATV went to great lengths to resolve this issue and get to the bottom of it, and their customer service & dedication is absolutely phenomenal. Sometimes a crappy situation like this arises, you never want it to, but it speaks volumes depending on how the company handles it, and in this case, Super ATV was flawless.
That was the short summary, now to the specifics of the situation. The first few times I rode these tires, they felt like they had a flat spot and were very shaky. I had heard many people talk of this about any sticky/soft compound tire developing a flat spot as it sat when not riding it, but the flat spot would work itself out after a few miles of driving, so I ran them and ignored the issue as just that, but it never went away. I ended up taking the tires and putting everything on tire balancer to spin and investigate them, and discovered that the tires were indeed significantly out of round. I contacted Erik and sent him several videos of the tires and he began to dig into the issue. It was discovered that something at the tire supplier (manufacturer) was incorrect with the mold of this specific tire, the overlap of the area where the rubber sections join was being made with a bit of a sharp angle, causing the tire carcass to basically be shaped a little like an egg. The tire supplier SATV uses for the XT is different than the one used for the RT, and after attempts to correct the issue, which involved expedited international shipping to SATV, failed attempts to correct the problem (by the mfg.), and the QC dept at Super ATV mounting and spinning a couple hundred tires to verify the issue was fixed, it was found that the issue was still present. This tire MFG is on the chopping block now from SATV and will not be used in the future due to this specific issue.
Erik has set me up with a set of RT Warriors in the meantime until the situation with the 34″ XT warriors gets situated, which will be a while due the Kung Flu situation happening in China, and many of the ports being completely closed, and the tire supplier switch. I will be getting these tires mounted up this afternoon, and hopefully get to take them out this weekend for their first run.
Once again, I want to say that SATV handled the situation flawlessly, and has made the best out of unfortunate circumstance. I am completely satisfied with their efforts, service, and constant, detailed conversation with me through the whole process. The XT warrior is still a great tire from a performance aspect, and I would recommend it still for anyone looking for an aggressive all around tire. The tire really does perform well, and i was impressed with the time I had on them, you just won’t be able to get a 34″ for a while, which I think is the rarest tire size anyone runs anyway, the rest of the sizes have been confirmed to be solid with no defect in mfg. I will still get more time on them in the future, and be back to update with the ultimate results, and give an update about the performance on dry rocks, but it will be a while before that will actually happen.
This is very interesting to me as I just mounted a set of 35 x 10 x 15 XT’s soft compound. Before mounting, these tires are visibly very misshaped, rolling them along they wobbled badly. I thought maybe it is because they were at the bottom of a stack all askew and they would straighten up when mounted and aired up. While mounting I could see the beads were out of round a good half inch at least. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the beads round just to get the lock ring in place. Took it for a ride around the neighborhood and the machine was very bouncy and the steering wheel is pumping back and fourth aggressively. I swapped tire positions to see if maybe it was just one of the front tires, but no matter what position I moved them to nothing changed. Apparently the 34’s aren’t the only size with this issue. I’ll contact SATV tomorrow, hopefully they will be as responsive to me as they were for you.
Thanks to you guys for responding to my oil leak problem. I took my machine out for an (easy on the machine) test drive and just returned to find oil still leaking out the side of the accordion tube.
Dale, you mentioned the tube should be as straight as possible. I have it perfectly vertical.
Jason, you mentioned installing the accordion tube not fully compressed or expanded. I am sure I installed it in its expanded position as that’s how it came out of the package.
One more question: Is it supposed to have a small slit in it to relieve pressure?
It’s designed to expand and contract with heat, during the install make sure it’s not fully compressed or fully contracted. It could be a sign of your bearings getting too hot.
We have a Mahinrah 1000 and having issues shifting as well. It act like there is not enough room to put it in gear. We will get a explanation mark as an error has occured. It almost appears to not be in the proper postion for drive or reverse. Dealership has been terrible to work with. They have no idea what the issue is. It has a three year warranty. Where do we go from here?
Yes, this is the only vent. The accordion tube was mounted hanging in a down position. I have since remounted it in a vertical position as high as possible. I am going to replace the lube I lost, and give it another try. I’m thinking that with the tube mounted low, when it did start to leak, it may have began a siphon effect?? I don’t know. I’ll let you know what happens after the test drive Saturday after Christmas.
Thanks for responding.
My Kymco is fairly quiet qhen comoared to most other SxS machines I have conpared it to. Then again mine is only a 450 qhere most machines today are 700 plus cc. My neighbor just bought two 1000 cc SxS machines and yes, they are much louder than my 450!! Wife and I can carry a conversation without issue below 20/25 mph, but at higher speeds engine noise increases and many of these performance machines run at higher rpm which equates to a louder engine….
Ive had mixed here. I had the front polaris quick attach clamps come loose on the roof once. Caught it just in time. Whenever I trailered open from that point on, I strapped it down. If its a nice solid hardware mount, I wouldnt worry about it.
I had the same with the wind shields. I left my fold down up once and it bowed WAY in at 70+ MPH. From that point forward I just folded it down.
Some of them are louder than others. I find that a lot of the noise comes from the drive train myself. My 500 had the motor under the seat along w/ the clutch air intake. If you covered that intake for a minute, it was shocking how much noise came thru there. I feel like the Polaris 1000 motor is reasonably quiet for what it is.
I think used is always an option. I try to buy as much used as I can. BUT….with SXS’s, unless you have solid confidence its been cared for and not beat to death, I tend to lean new. I was looking used when I first got one in 2013, but after seeing endless videos of what people do to them, I went new. Just my .02 on the topic.
Anything prior to I think 2014 has the engine under the seat, believe it was when the went to the 900 moved it to under the box, so stay away from the 700/800 and I would add the 570 as well, bout the only complaint I see on them is noise. I’m on 3 different forums and from what others have said, Polaris has the quietest SXS on the market.
Check the air intake neck in the center between the 2 front seats that attaches to the throttle body. Min had a leak, replaced and runs like a champ. Likely to be air leak or fuel delivery issue. Doctor motorcycle out of St. Louis has any part you would need. Also Ebay
My machine has a plastic roof and I have had no issues trailering it, my plastic windshield folds down so road trash has not been an issues. If your windshield does not fold down then I would consider a cover of some form for the windshield so it doesnt get scratched from road debris. Your roof would never know it had a stone chip, but windshield will definetly show up. I have saw people tape cardboard over there plastic windshield for trailering.
I think I used the term sport incorrectly… I am considering something like a RZR XP 1000 or Can Am Maverick sport or X3. I said sport to mean not a work machine. We can’t drive them on the roads here.
But since you mentioned it the General is an interesting option I hadn’t considered.
You got a lot to think about. A sport SXS is a limited market, Polaris general is about the only one I know of. Do you live in an area that allows them on the roads? Regardless of brand having a dealer you trust is #1 but not always possible. Right now the market is red hot, not good for buying or even trying to find new, on the bright side if you do buy new and don’t like it, it should be an easy sell.
I too bought a 2019 Odes Ravager 1000 Zeus. I haven’t had a problem similar to yours; but I have oil leak problems. I hope we both get out units fixed so that we have the confidence needed to ride in the places we like to go.
For all those that have posted or viewed this post I was hacked on my Facebook account and was unable to view or respond. If you see Lois Fernandes on the posting disregard. I have the same post under bubba Smith and for all that message me please reconnect with me .Thanks and safe riding
My 2015 Odes 4 door would die in certain positions and I found the intake neck was torn. I ordered a new one from Doctor Motorcycle and it fixed the problem immediately. Doctor Motorcycle seems to stock all the parts for these machines and the parts guy is pretty helpful
Thanks Deward. D-Mode on the 850 was a dumb question, one of those that got lost in translation between the brain and the fingers on the keyboard. I was originally wondering if anyone had adapted it to an 850 or if there was some aftermarket mod available. I suppose not.
I apologize in advance if it’s better to start a new thread or post on a similar thread so posting on similar.
My 2013 Odes Dominator 800 4WD switch has not worked for a while. I removed the switch and tested and believe it isn’t the cause. I’m not all that familiar with working on these but am confident it’s an electronic issue.
Has anyone else had issues with this? Wondering if actuator or something. I read a similar problem with someone with anATV had a plug come undone… does the UTV have a similar box? Any help greatly appreciated, it’s getting sloppy out there and 4wd would help
I’m about your size, 6’3-6’4 and a little fatter, and have bad knees. i was a little concerned at first but since then I’ve put in several 70+ mile days and don’t have any problems.
I’m pretty sure that if the 2021 850 had d-modes you’d have heard about it by now
I had a heating problem and finally replace ECU and things are great. It would die, over heat, not start, I replaced anything and everything that would cause over heating. Finally bought a new ECU unit. When I replaced it, I unplugged it only to have the ECU connector break off the harness connector and visa versa.SO also had to replace the wiring harness. Now things are good at all temperatures. The harness was very easy to replace by the way.
We ride in some serious dust at times here in Michigan. I have my cover off at least twice a year. Its shocking the amount of dust that accumulates in there.
Just get the ones (pulse connector) with the wires already started into the connector, so no special crimper is needed. Then, cut the rings off the harness, strip it back and connect it to the wires on the pulse connector. A quality butt connector with some heat shrink should serve fine.
My advice is to remove the clutch cover and give it a good clean/ blow out 2-3 times a season if you ride in dusty conditions. Remember, a big part is environmental dust, but there is also belt dust in there too. Its just good maintenance to pull that cover every so often and give everything a good clean and look over.
mkp777 wrote: So I need to take this harness back and get one specific to the General. I posted this picture, its the harness the Polaris dealer sold me. They said its for a RZR but also said, it will work for the General. On the directions that came with this harness, the diagram shows a 3 stud wiring bar that the 3 lugged wires go to. But as you know and as I found out, that isn’t under the hood of the general.
Don’t return it, just cut those ring terminals off of there and splice into the pulse connector. It should work fine.
They sell connectors all over the place to plug right into this bar. I did weather pack style connectors direct into the plug. It was a PITA. I would just get one that is pre-wired with the pigtails coming off of it and do a nice/ proper/ sealed connection that way. Here is a link, but these are sold all over the place on Amazon and E-bay. If I were to do it all over, I would do this. It is a slightly less clean way, but would have saved me a ton of frustration.
Just remember, the keyed 12v wire is to turn a relay on only. The same 10a fuse covers all 6 of these in the pulse bar. What Im getting at is don’t try to wire direct to this for keyed power. Just use it to trip the relay. A relay is the proper way to wire in lights.
Thanks so much for that post, apparently, you and I have the exact General. Even that colour. So I’ll be asking you a lot of questions, LOL
So I need to take this harness back and get one specific to the General. I posted this picture, its the harness the Polaris dealer sold me. They said its for a RZR but also said, it will work for the General. On the directions that came with this harness, the diagram shows a 3 stud wiring bar that the 3 lugged wires go to. But as you know and as I found out, that isn’t under the hood of the general.
They talk about ‘REMOVE ALL DUST AND DEBRIS FROM CLUTCH HOUSING OR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR’! Well that sort of warning triggers my paranoia and I start trying to prevent that.
Since everything is frozen here right now, I couldn’t really use a pressure washer to wash off the external area before changing the belt. So I hand washed it with tough paper towels. When I took the cover off, it wasn’t all that dusty. Until I hit the primary with compressed air and had to get out of there gasping for air. I returned with a respirator mask and continued with the compressed air till nothing more came out.
Anyway, that warning on the directions to change the belt caused me to ask the question, ‘Is there a filter’?
It seems like if they are warning to remove all dust and debris from that area, then what happens if I get out there on a very hot dry dusty day and it gets a lot of dust in there?
LOL, I just get paranoid. I’m not rich so I gotta be careful with my SXS. I want it to last.
Best to call the Arizona Game and Fish as I think they might have made a change in the weight of them and it also depends on if you have it registered as street legal in your home state. There’s some confusion as to if it’s under 1800 lbs or 2500 lbs now. But here’s a quick link to get you started AZGFD
They sell connectors all over the place to plug right into this bar. I did weather pack style connectors direct into the plug. It was a PITA. I would just get one that is pre-wired with the pigtails coming off of it and do a nice/ proper/ sealed connection that way. Here is a link, but these are sold all over the place on Amazon and E-bay. If I were to do it all over, I would do this. It is a slightly less clean way, but would have saved me a ton of frustration.
Just remember, the keyed 12v wire is to turn a relay on only. The same 10a fuse covers all 6 of these in the pulse bar. What Im getting at is don’t try to wire direct to this for keyed power. Just use it to trip the relay. A relay is the proper way to wire in lights.
Yeah…tires need to be the same size for the Hilliard overrun differential to operate properly. It does operate with a slightly different gear ratio which is what makes the rears “overrun” the fronts until they slip. In theory you could overcome some slip with very exact tire diameters. The issue is, no tire is that exact. I would run the same make/ model/ size tire on all 4 corners or risk some possibly major issues.
mkp777 wrote: Is there a filter for the air going into the clutch/belt area?
Nope. Just the frog skin to keep the water out on the intake over the left rear wheel. I suppose it has some minor filtering effect, but not much. The amount of dust that comes out of my clutch area after a dusty ride is crazy. I did add an outer wears sock to the under hood intake, but I think all that did was restrict flow just enough to draw more air from the side intake which created a major dirt and dust issue. I have since taken it off. The clutches flow air, but not really pump it, so I think any sort of filter would only restrict air flow. Just my thoughts.
Pede wrote: What did you rent? and did you like it? You got over the biggest hurdle, finding a good dealer or at least a trusted one. Comfort and room there is only one choice, gadgets are getting better but I agree on more stuff to screw up, when it comes to addons again only one choice. Research shows Polaris to have more issues(they all have them BTW) but it’s mainly numbers, number of units on the market and HP, Polaris has an abundance of both. I could go on and on but bottom line, get one your comfortable in, keep the driveline stock do the maintenance and regardless of what brand you’ll get along fine.
Good point, but realize that there is more than reliability when a brand is selected for rentals. Polaris and CanAm have aggressive incentive plans the rental agreements. I’ve seem rental companies drop them though, after too many problems…
I have a 2020 YXZ 1000R SS SE, but the new Yamaha 4Max would be my top pick for a more mellow, but still super capable, reliable 64″ machine. I might uncork it with a HMF tune & Q series muffler, or just keep the stock exhaust…seems to sound good on video. My Wife and I use our SxS for solo backcountry exploring, so reliability is paramount. You could go CanAm or Polaris, just plan to spend major $ (can easily reach $10K)on aftermarket parts so it doesn’t break, and carry spare belts. The 4Max seems built HD outta the box. BTW, Yamaha provides a 10 year warranty on their double clutched belt. The KRX went with a similar system, IIRC, but nobody else in the industry can touch Yamaha belt reliability. Nobody.
thought… for the auto 4×4 to operate correctly when the rear tires spin faster than the front the drive engages, a smaller front tire would prevent the correct operation by delaying the auto engage… thinking further when in 4×4 you have two tire sizes in the same gear set, this would certainly produce excessive tire wear and or wear on the gears depending on your terrain. Curious why you would want more “slip” in the front diff?
One more question, when taking off the calipre, I can see where it says in videos on Youtube, “Polaris recommends this bolt be changed each time”.
Anyone know why that is?
The belt draws air from above the left rear tire as well as under the hood area. Under the hood there are 2 intakes, one is for the belt. Belts usually last quite a while assuming you use low range when needed and don’t slip it. I only use OEM belts, just something I have done since my snowmobile days. That old belt you took off will be a great spare.
Sounds like you modified parts for other side by sides, to fit your Odes. Sounds familiar. There very few aftermarket parts for Odes. It is a good thing you can work on it yourself, because there are few mechanics that will touch them. I predict Odes is going to go the way of Chrysler outboard motors – out of business.
Yeah, I am 99% sure mine are 7″ wide all the way around. This ends up being about 1 inch more wheel width in the front and 1 inch less in the back. At least for my application.
Of course, after I bought the machine is when I noticed the oil leak. The guys in the shop that worked on it for me told me that it had a sealant of some kind on it, apparently from the factory. That surprised me. It seems like if the parts meshed properly there wouldn’t be a need for a sealant.
Thank you for your reply. I’ll probably get into myself the next time. I will make sure all surfaces are clean
OK that’s what I’ll go with for Spring/Summer and Fall. For winter, I’ll use the original rims with a tire that is good for snow. Any recommendations for type of tire that is very good in snow? I plow snow and I also live at the top of a very icy hill when its Winter.
Makes sure that all the surfaces are cleaned. Sometimes they put a sealant on the two mating surfaces and if you don’t get all of it off it could cause a small leak
Hi Pede, Thanks for the reply. Since my post I have been going through some wiring that were not part of the whole wiring harness replacement. I did find some hot spots on the EFI wires. Played with them a bit and gained a quick 1000 rpms. “Replacements on the way” A far as the TPS settings, Yes I have but will recheck after replacement of EFIs/wires. I have been chasing this problem for way to long. Hope this works.
Have a good Thanksgiving & stay safe.
Seastacker wrote: Yes. Mine are the same size on all 4 corners. I think the fronts are a little wider and backs are a little narrower than the stocks. I think this is a better look, makes it easier to carry a spare and even rotate the tires if needed. We ride some pavement at times and my backs seem to take a beating.
So what size tires/rims do you have on the front? I was talking to the Polaris guys and they said I can only go with about a 7 inch wide rim on front or it will rub.
Curious if you’ve seen this.
Did anyone every find a solution for this? We have a Mule Pro FXT with a soft enclosure, but there is a gap above the windshield between that and the roof.
Well after much searching and reading opinions I am looking at the “SUNF AO33″ALL Terrain tires,, all reviews have been quite good, a knockoff of the bighorn tires but with deeper lugs, also have good characteristics for riding on pavement. Tread life has been better than many competitors…so the reviews have said….
Before I make the final decision, anyone here have any experience with these??
Thanks in advance……
I have found wide machines are limired to fewer trails, you mentioned Ohio…..most trails in Ohio are restricted to 50″ or less machine width. Even other states have limited trails to ride when you are going to a 72″ wide or wider machine. As an Ohio resident and having rode in surronding states, I would not go over 60″ in width until states get there trail systems wider and that seems to be moving at a veey slow pace. Unless you ride at high speeds and kinda crazy the extra width will not be noticible. My machine is only 56″ wide and I have never had an issue with being to narrow, but have had issues with it being to wide!!
Look at a Honda Pioneer 1000, 2 seater, been out for many years vs the new Talon. I have a Pioneer 500 for property chores and riding, but it needs better suspension for comfort. But it is very dependable, unlike my Polaris 570 ACE. My SxS choices are limited due to local 50 inch trail restrictions. Check out owner you tube videos and multiple dedicated brand SxS forums (no offense to this one). If looking at Hondas try HondaSxS.com for good info.
What did you rent? and did you like it? You got over the biggest hurdle, finding a good dealer or at least a trusted one. Comfort and room there is only one choice, gadgets are getting better but I agree on more stuff to screw up, when it comes to addons again only one choice. Research shows Polaris to have more issues(they all have them BTW) but it’s mainly numbers, number of units on the market and HP, Polaris has an abundance of both. I could go on and on but bottom line, get one your comfortable in, keep the driveline stock do the maintenance and regardless of what brand you’ll get along fine.
I’ll offer a different opinion. I’m all in for Polaris Rangers. For the record, I’ll be 74 next month, 6′ and 280 lbs. Use it, along with my adult son, for work, play and hunting. We ride the trails in the Ocala National Forest in Florida, roam the woods near the Okeefeenoke Swamp in Georgia and work on our land in Georgia.
By simply following the prescribed maintenance schedule, (or have your trusted mechanic do so,) we don’t have issues with Polaris. Yes, I carry an extra belt but I’ve never had to use it. I simply change the belt every year at maintenance time, keeping the old one as my spare, assuming it looks OK. I use Polaris brand products like drive fluids and oil.
It’s a comfortable ride to me, plenty of room for two and coolers, etc.
Based on the folks I’ve spoken to with Polaris complaints, they beat the stew out of a machine, defer maintenance and ignore issues, then get annoyed when the machine turns out not to be eternally bullet-proof.
Just my observation. I’m happy with Polaris.
Enjoy the ride, Newby!
Florida Al
Ditto on scratch the Polaris off the list. Is you want a sport 2 seater, look at the Yamaha Wolverine. If a utility model more fits your needs, the Yamaha Viking, is it. I am totally sold on Yamaha.
Not only is the Odes of poor quality, there are very few dealers, and the ones out there get no factory support. When I was having all my trouble, Mike Smith (Odes owner), said he was sending a factory mechanic with a fully stocked truck, to the dealership to repair my Odes. Some jake-leg guy in dirty cloths and a beat up car showed up with a card board box of parts and a zipper bag of tools. Seriously? When that jerk finished with it, it ran worse than when he started.
Well if reliability is the top of your list Polaris is out. I’d look at the Krx, new Wolverine or Yxz. The Krx and the 19+Yxz were the top two on my list when I bought a new one a couple of months ago. I didn’t want to deal with belts and love being able to shift so I went Yami. The fact that the Yxz has only had one recall since it was first built in 2016 speaks a lot of the quality it has.
I have a Kymco 450i, that I plow snow with, 4wd is the key to plowing along with some aggressive tires. As Carl mentioned all plowing should be done in low range !!
My machine has over 3000 miles with the original belt, if used properly a belt should not be an issue. Keep in mind a new belt is far less costly than rebuilding a mechanical transmission !
Honda Pioneer 500. Best bang for the buck. Thinking the MSRP on original model just dropped to $8500 due to new 2021 model with dump bed. 5 speed gear drive. Added aftermarket power steering to mine.
I hate to even post something this basic….BUT. I had a 2013 Ranger 500 EFI. OEM battery would start it, albeit a little slow. It would not idle, often stall, poor throttle response. WTF is wrong with this thing?! Cant be the battery….it starts it, right? Nope. It was the battery. I installed a new AGM and all the issues went away. My old logic of if the battery will start it, its good went out the window that day (for SXS’s at least). It seems they are super sensitive to a good battery to run right. At least my little 500 Ranger was. I know its not that silver bullet, but if you got an older battery its worth a shot to not be chasing your tail.
Also….any time there is a possible electrical issue, grounds are a good place to start along w/ pulling, cleaning and checking all harness connections, but it sounds like you have already done this.
Those Kubota diesels utv’s are heavy and heavy duty. They are hydrostatic so you get instant torque. But if you’re looking for something to also play with then that would definitely not be it. You almost never have to use the brakes, being hydrostatic it stops really quick when you just let off the throttle.
I used Bronco brand shocks for the front on a 2007 Polaris 700xp. They did not work good for me, rode rough, suspension travel seemed limited less than factory and ended up returning them.
Stevenayb wrote: Trying to adjust the shifting linkage on my 2015 raider 800, it wouldn’t go into reverse or park, so I adjusted the linkage got it to go into reverse and park but now having trouble getting it to go into neutral, high and low. Is there a sweet spot when when trying to make this adjustment?
Did the springs, weights and helix follow the old clutches to the new ones? Sounds like either one of them is sticking or there is a calibration issue.
With the radiator cap removed, see if you have flow from the top hose as it heats up, should happen as the thermo stat opens, about 180 degrees. You should have liquid coming out if the bleeder at this temp, if not you thermostat is bad. If you do not see a flow in the top of the radiator, or the radiator does not get hot , then your water pump impeller is bad
I appreciate your insight(s). Not being familiar with the toy market, I took note of Seastacker’s idea that there may soon be an uptick in the used market. I don’t have to have a UTV so badly that I’m willing to pay anything to get one, I’d rather hold off and see what transpires. Until then, I guess I can keep riding around on the tractor. It doesn’t do too well on the trails, but it always starts…..
Carl, I agree with your thinkin but I not sure the production numbers are there, the only way this happens if Polaris gets into over production in the coming months, they did that back in the early 80’s and almost broke the company. That was Textron back then, will see if they learned a lesson. I have to laugh at the FB group I’m on, they are buying anything they can find and now you have people wondering how big of tire and lift they can put on a 500…..:rolleyes:
I anticipate over the next 18-24 months we are going to have a glut of lightly used toys coming onto the market as people get back to normal. I expect this to start with campers and work on down thru the rest. People may have had fun and realized they like the new hobby, but when time doesn’t allow use, the monthly payment and insurance bill are a good enough reason for many to sell. We will see. It will be an interesting market to watch.
Sure would like to know where all these down and out broke people that cant afford to buy food or pay rent are living that the news talks about day in and day out. Not only are offroad vehicles selling but all outdoor toys like boats and RV’s are also selling like hotcakes. Went into the shop that I retired from and found everyone to be doing well considering the virus issues. All we hear is doom and gloom from the news every night but certainly have not experienced any of that in the real world!
With only 100 miles, its hard to think that something is broken, but you never know. Like pede said, they are a bear to get all the air out of the system. That sure sounds like what it is to me, but its hard to say without being there. I have always wondered if one of those vacuum bleeders they use on cars would help get the air out of these things.
Sounds like your making all the right moves, I know bleeding the air can be a bitch. I’ve seen on other sites some problems with the water pump, it’s got a plastic impeller and believe someone sells a better replacement, good luck. Might pull the radiator while your doing the stat and give it a good clean.
We have a camping deal for campers with all your food and drinks and Live band showers/bathrooms and guide to show you the mountains behind the camping area for one price for you and a guest for the weekend and bring your fishing pole for the pond you see in picture. You can contact Curtis @ (423) 627-7906 .we have enough room for 80 campers .your SXS trailers can all be put in field .make your reservation with us and Let’s have some fun .
mkp777 wrote: I will try those pressures. Did yours come with the ride command shocks. They’re adjustable. I’ve left mine on medium.
Mine came with the Fox QS3’s which are adjustable to 3 positions. The spring rates were still very stiff. They also converted them over to a true dual rate set up with a cross over. I get a super soft, plush ride now. When I pass that spring, it crosses over into the stiffer one to get the good handling and performance. I would start with 12PSI and see where that takes you. Be sure you have a good low pressure tire gauge too. Its hard to set lower pressures like that with a normal range gauge.
I cant answer that….had the wheels and tires on the machine before it had 5 miles on it. I also had the shocks done by Shock Therepy which was a huge improvement to the ride quality. I had driven and ridden in several Generals prior to getting mine and felt the suspension was a bit stiff. What sort of air pressure are you running now? I have never used max inflation on the sticker/ manual. I tend to run down in the 12psi range which seems to be a good combo of ride, handling and stability.
Seastacker wrote: Yes. Mine are the same size on all 4 corners. I think the fronts are a little wider and backs are a little narrower than the stocks. I think this is a better look, makes it easier to carry a spare and even rotate the tires if needed. We ride some pavement at times and my backs seem to take a beating.
Did your back take a beating on pavement when using the stock tire setup? I notice in your profile pic, the General there with the white paint scheme, that’s the one I have too. A 2019.
I’m considering having two sets of tires, one for winter and then the other for the rest of the year.
I asked about your back because my wife and I take our General into town a lot. And that includes about 30 minutes of driving on pavement each time.
So far its only been on the stock tires.
Spring/Summer/Fall driving will be the same but most of it will be on dirt road. Its very very rural so I can go as fast as I want. Its bumpy so I’d like a tire with a softer ride if possible.
Yes. Mine are the same size on all 4 corners. I think the fronts are a little wider and backs are a little narrower than the stocks. I think this is a better look, makes it easier to carry a spare and even rotate the tires if needed. We ride some pavement at times and my backs seem to take a beating.
mkp777 wrote: My tires are different size front to back. I’d like to get a set of wheels/tires that are the same size all the way around. I’m fine with stock height but is it OK to put the same width tire on front as is back? That means a wider tire/wheel on front than what came stock.
A lot of people run same size tire on all 4 corners.Me included.That way you can rotate tires. Planet SxS (Ryan Snyder) is a good source.He’ll price match. I’ve recently went with AMS M1 Evils and after about 600 miles I like them.
My tires are different size front to back. I’d like to get a set of wheels/tires that are the same size all the way around. I’m fine with stock height but is it OK to put the same width tire on front as is back? That means a wider tire/wheel on front than what came stock.
I had a 2013 Ranger 500. Not sure what is different and what is not. I am almost positive you can run stock axles with a 2″lift with no issues. I am not sure on the tire size max with the lift, but I was able to run +1 inch on mine with no lift at all. That was with wheels as well. In terms of other mods, what is your planned use? Looks like you already have a roof and front shield. Top of my list are typically tires (to match my planned use) and a winch, cab components (which you already have a start on).
I need to buy tires for my General.
Where are people finding the best prices for them? I need to probably buy them already mounted and balanced. The local tire shop around here said they don’t do UTV tires.
I have an odes dominator, 2018 w only about 15 hours on it. The compression appears to be shot. High gear is a zilch. Ideas” I can not find someone who works on them. Kansas City area
Ok. Looking to pick it up for 200 and do some work on reviving it. It a 2 smoker so it should have some gumption. Just not sure if it’s worth the headache or not. I’ll check it out again after it’s cleaned up.
Looks like a hardware store knock off Rhino of some sort. She looks a bit rough. I would be cautious unless you can ID what it actually is and know parts are available.
nealalsup wrote: Thanks so much for the info – super helpful. Wouldn’t have thought about the power steering with the weight of the plow.
Great video….you move a fair amount of snow. And great tune to go with the video at the end!
No problem. It was just me messing with and learning how to video edit, lol. I did air the front tires up to the max which did help a little with steering effort, but if you have an option for power steering, its one of those options that you don’t “need”, but once you have it you wont live without.
Thanks so much for the info – super helpful. Wouldn’t have thought about the power steering with the weight of the plow.
Great video….you move a fair amount of snow. And great tune to go with the video at the end!
Here you go. It was a Polaris poly plow. It worked well on that little Ranger. I never felt any lack of power at all. That 500 has plenty of grunt. The video is about 6″ of average snow. I went around and did a few of the neighbors as well as our drive. You will make plenty of friends having a little plow set up like this.
I plow now with my General 4 which also works very well, but I miss the maneuverability of the Ranger.
I plowed the crap out of the snow with my Ranger 500. I plowed in low gear and never had an issue at all. I found the short wheel base was great for maneuvering. I wish I had had power steering with the added weight of the plow up front though. I did add a couple sand bags to the bed for a bit of extra traction.
I had a you tube video of the Ranger plowing. Let me see if I can find it.
rocksalot wrote: Mine is a little different. Lol.
I converted a 32′ 4 horse slant trailer.
Tough, light weight, pulls easy, garage is 13′ on the short side and 17′ long side.
It is insulated and has a finished cabin with dinette and heat/air.
I don’t worry about replacing rubber roofs or cracked frames.
Not for everyone but it works for me.
I like that! Any pics of the inside you will share?
Mine is a little different. Lol.
I converted a 32′ 4 horse slant trailer.
Tough, light weight, pulls easy, garage is 13′ on the short side and 17′ long side.
It is insulated and has a finished cabin with dinette and heat/air.
I don’t worry about replacing rubber roofs or cracked frames.
Not for everyone but it works for me.
I lived in Arizona blazing heat for 5 yrs and now moved to Idaho. Going to try living in snowy winters vs hell hot summers lol.
Anyway I bought a Rockland 17″ dual axle flat bed trailer and rolled 1 gallon of Cabot wood sealant from Lowes on the top and bottom of the wooden floor planks. Had no shrink or crack issues thus far. I’m going to roll another gallon on now that the wood floor will be exposed to snow.
We couldn’t pass up this 33′ Class A RV. Then purchased a 17′ dual axle flat bed trailer with electric brakes controlled by Curt wireless ap on my phone Echo: A Wireless Brake Controller for Your Smartphone
I put Gorilla lift kit on the trailer to lift the back gate. Absolutely necessary now that im an older guy lol https://www.gorilla-lift.com/
Hi Desert Moose, I just moved from Arizona to Idaho. Did alot of riding in desert washes/trails and forest trails above the rim. Have a 2020 Bennch/Odes. UTV | Bennche X4 1000 Side By Side UTV | Utility Vehicles
Go see Brent independent owner of PBO POWERSPORTS in Phoenix
3850 E. Roeser Rd
Phoenix , AZ 85040
602-828-1885
Wealth of knowledge, great guy, no hard selling. He put me in my Dominator X4-1000 and love the machine!
All my ATV buddies I ride with couldn’t believe my UTV went everywhere their ATV’s went. After driving my UTV some are now making the switch to the UTV side x side.
Good luck and happy trails
Michael
October 8, 2020. This morning my good friend Ken and I did a lube, oil change, air filter change, and blew out the clutch box. WOW. Fluids were not discolored or real dirty, but the engine oil was fairly dark. Engine air filter was virtually clean other than the finger prints I got on it being clumsy, changed it any way been on for a 100 hours and numerous very dusty rides.
We pulled the clutch box cover off to check the belt and clean it out. OPPS. There was very, very little dust in the clutch box. Ken determined that most of that was probably belt dust.
Conclusion: With 8026 miles and 560.2 hours on my 2015 Polaris Ranger XP 900 my air intake mode works exactly like it thought it would.
Happy as a pig in $#!……. MUD.
I’m not from out west, but we primarily trail ride in Michigan. We ride with several larger 72″ (plus) machines, but there are limitations there. Keep in mind that X3 4 seat is not only 72″ wide, but also 13’+ long….its a HUGE machine in general (awesome, but huge). My personal preference for trail riding is a 64″ machine. I feel like the 72″ units will do better in wide open spaces and in the desert. This is personal opinion and I’m sure that there are many who do run 72″ units that will disagree. Hopefully someone will chime in that is more familiar with your area.
Yeah, no way around that with the 30 whopping HP I had on that machine. I did go to the dunes with them once and aired them down to about 3psi and they did ok. In terms of on the tails, they were way better than stock, but as you said, sand robs power no matter what. I was very impressed with them in general and was shocked with how well they did in the snow. Only drawback was with that tread pattern, they did wear fairly fast on the pavement. I guess that’s the case with any soft compound off road tire though.
I agree w/ that approach. It almost looks like that tail pipe is part of the muffler end cap. I wonder if it was welded or somehow crimped inside and that came loose. I would take the end cap off to see what happened before you call Trinity personally. Keep us posted.
Thanks for the reply. Realized I should’ve posted pics originally… screws holding plate are tight and nothing has occurred to cause the tube to change direction unless it happened internally. Didn’t want to break anything down in case anyone had advice. Probably just going to reach out to Trinity to see if I can get any assistance
Never had a trinity. I wonder if its one of the twin muffler style systems if the 2 mufflers are just held by a clamp and that clamp needs to be snugged up.
PS…pics always help 🙂
On my Ranger I had the Highlifter Outlaw MST’s. They are aggressive looking, but have a flat tread block. I really liked them for the trails. They did very well in everything including mud and snow. Worth a look anyway.
I think it’s already there Mark. I do understand the trend towards luxury, opens up the market to more people but at the same time I think some people should stay away from this aspect of off roading. I also realize the top end is expensive but when you start whining about the jerky starts, squeaks and dust, maybe you should stick to your Range Rover.
Altimate Motorsportss , Menasha. Look for a Massimo dealer as they now own Odes. There is a place down by madison as well, I just can’t remember the name
Also, before anyone ask, I have no clue if it’s throwing an engine code because the current display has every light possible constantly illuminated. (High beams, 4 ways, CEL, EPS, oil pressure, battery). For a reason unknown to me they come on and stay on as soon as the key is turned on.
Thanks for the update. Its nice to have a final report/ issue resolution.
I almost wonder if there was some air in the system that blead itself out or something. I know the Polaris machines can take several attempts to get all the air out.
Just wanted to post a follow..post break in my machine is no longer experiencing the issue of overheating. It’s a great little sxs now and really like it. If anything changes I’ll let you all know.. maybe the engines are tight when fresh? I don’t know but good luck with yours.
I have a 2013 900xp. It ran fine all weekend and come Sunday morning it would not start. Fires great, pulled the pugs, very dry and no spark. I can hear the pump when I turn on. Got home washed and continued to investigate. Checked all the wiring I can find and everything seems to be tight. I changed the spark plugs and checked spark, I still have no spark. I have checked all the fuses and they all seem fine. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance, Dan
I would lean towards the pro or the xp turbo myself and stick with the 64”. I live and ride in Minnesota. Not mush use for the 72” machine.
With that said. If I was going west and riding dunes and such. The 72” would be an obvious choice.
I think your better off with the name brand vs the others. Now with that said, a lot of the Honda guy’s that say they are bullet proof are ones who had them years ago, me included but today you’ll find they have problems just like everyone else.
Is your steering incredibly hard to turn where you have to use incredible strength to turn the wheel? We had a tough time figuring it when it happened to my 2015 Dominator 800 4x. The shop was finally able to find that I had a broken shifting fork in the front that was keeping me from disengaging from 4 wheel drive. The fork cost $12.95 but hard to get. We believe it broke because of switching from 2 to 4 wheel drive while stuck and the wheels were engaged in movement it slams the shifting fork over and snaps it. Just a thought!
Smo wrote: I’m experiencing some issues with my steering.
I have replaced the steering re-director and the right front cv axle and steering knuckle due to bearing issues.
I had power steering installed on the machine when it was new, which never seemed to function correctly, meaning sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t.
I felt as if it was not grounded correctly causing the unit to lose power .
After I replaced the re-director,axle and knuckle now it seems to have a resistance in the steering, almost like the power steering unit is trying to turn the front tires in the opposite direction from which I’m steering…..
Has anyone else had any similar issues?
The 2/4 wheel selector switch hasn’t worked in awhile now keeping it lock in 4 wheel drive continuously, could that possibly be the problem?
I have checked the wheel alignment by aligning the front tires parallel to the rear , then towing them in approx. 1/4″ assuming this is correct?
All and any help with these issues is greatly appreciated.
My harness melted. Just ran new wire. It runs now but my display only gives a back light as well. It started with the fuel gauge showing empty then it all shorted out. I’m assuming mine is fried but I’m interested if anyone has a fix.
Mine did the same thing. Just about finished running new wire. The harness from the headlights through the taillights had melted in to one giant short. The grounds are tied in with the efi. It looked like it began with and unhooked plug that didn’t go to anything. Check your wires in the the back and go from there. Mine will run now but I think the display is fried. I have a good pdf schematic if you need it.
Hello,
I finally got the time to do the inspection operation.
First, THANKS SO MUCH for the accurate description and pics!!!
Upon inspection the tensioner moved freely.
I’m left with a worry/question…
When I took the plunger (Bolt in center) bolt off, I didn’t realize there’d be a long spring there captive to it. When I re-installed it, it fed in but caught on something. So I finagled a bit and then it fed in freely a bit more. There was tension after that, I can imagine that was where the spring actually started to compress under tension. (?)
I’m just a bit worried it caught on something else and isn’t fully in there.
If that spring didn’t go all the way into where it needed to go….if I did something wrong, what is my indication?
If I did something wrong and start the motor, is it immediately going to jump time and result in a catastrophic failure?
If I start the motor and there is some sort of odd noise, is it too late? Or can I stop the motor and try to re-install the tensioner to remedy this?
My 2nd worry is;
I didn’t realize there was a gasket in play. When taking the tensioner off, it left a bit of gasket around the bolt holes upon removal.
I can always go get another gasket but in the meantime, is that under pressure? Will oil squirt out of there with the engine running?
For those that will attempt this operation in the future….
Beware that the center bolt (plunger bolt) has a spring behind it.
The Allen wrench needed for the two mounting bolts is 5mm.
The plunger bolt is 12mm socket.
There is 100% a return line all fuel injection systems have a return line if you don’t have fuel coming from it more than likely it’s a regulator issue
Lemon laws vary by state. In Michigan, it only applies to cars and trucks. Not to motorhomes, off road vehicles or similar.
I can say that my sister in law went thru the lemon law process on a Hyundai car. It took months and she still was not made whole. It was a mess.
The other option may be to try and sell it disclosing the issue and get close to whole and move on. The used market is on fire right now. You may find it sells even with the issue and does so quickly. Not ideal, but something to consider.
I removed my cat and muffler it’s well worth it. Mine is a 15 Dominator 800 X2 .I cut the cat off just past the crimp that holds it to a piece of flex pipe.Then you can slide a piece of 2″ exhaust pipe mines 9″ long then slid a 2″ inlet and 2 outlet on car glasspack worked great.welded a tab on the side of the glasspack bolted to the old original bolt on the frame.I hat a deep tone and not really that loud. Well worth the $21.00 for the glasspack and pipe.I need to rappel the exhaust pipe with header wrap for heat control. The exhaust points straight out the back.
What brand of powerstearing unit did you have put on. I’m thinking about put one on this winter after I get some of the other modifications I want to do..
My understanding is Odes Industries filed BK. Odes China disbanded their relationship with them due to monies owed.
Odes China started a relationship with Bennche.
I bought mine in January 2020. Everything in it says Odes but the title says Bennche. I’ve had no problems thus far.
I bought mine at PBO Powersports in Phoenix AZ. The owner Brent, great guy. Said the CEO of USA Odes Industries took him off the approved dealers list due to a disagreement the two of them had.
The CEO of Odes China made Brent an approved Bennche dealer under the new partnership.
You are absolutely correct…bs it is! The dealer should start replacing parts until the problem is fixed! I would definetly post your troubles on every forum you can find, call your local news people and get them to do a public relations story on this.
If you financed the unit call your bank, you may have the right to with hold the payment until it gets fixed.
It would be in there best interest to start replacing all the electronic bits one at a time until the problem gets resolved!!
I know the folks at my local Bass Pro, believe I will mention the poor service on these machines and perhaps let them know the word is spreading about poor service on these machines. If you have some spare time, go to your local BP store and let the customers know how your being treated….wish I could do more…
I purchased a 2019 Comrade 650.
Came with windshield, winch, trailer hitch and ball, roof, EFI, EPS, 4 year on engine…. $7500 in all and it cake with freenshipping,
Had trouble with charge…. bad rectifier. I fixed it myself. Got a new one off net for $20.
Problem I had was dealership too far.
Once reg/rect was fixed machhine is a tank.
I use it around ranch daily.
Now I find that Odes is in bankrupt. Dealership closed.
I understand that SC is picking up the Odes line except for the Comrade.
Not sure now where to get parts at all.
Check with Bass Pro of Cabelas as they are the dealers for those. If all else fails go to “Cyclepedia” as they make manuals for many of the not so popular brands. I have both the online and a hardcopy service manual for my Kymco
Look up Pile Driver quick attatch mount, you dont get under the machine to attach.
Pick up blade with winch and it snaps into place, lift a lever to unhook and the plow drops down and you drive away. Super heavy duty, I made the mount so it bolts on for winter use, then remove 6 bolts and it is gone for summer riding. Hangs down less then 1 and a half inches. No excess stress on front frame like front mounts can cause.
RetiredGuy wrote: I bought mine in January 2020. So far extremely happy with the ride. Spent time 4 wheeling on the rim in AZ and all my friends ATVs were in awe that I went everywherethey went with a more comfortable ride. I had an ECU tuner put in mine which added lower end power and top end speed. It woke the engine up!
Also because of heat transfer from the engine & exhaust pipes I completely took the interior seats, doghouse and floor boards out and lined the underside of everything I could and wrapped the exhaust pipes from manifold to under the back tilt bed with heat shield products. Here’s the website: Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material & youtube vids links: Heatshield Products Inc – YouTube 90% of the heat transfer does get into the cab as it dies stock.
I attached pics as well as a copy of the service manual my dealer was kind enough to give to me.
Breaking in I patiently & painstakingly never went over 25mph the 1st 250 miles. I believe that is a reason my vehicle has had no engine or transmission problems. But everyone has different views on breaking a vehicle in.
So far I couldn’t be happier, moved to Twin Falls Idaho and looking forward to getting into the back country with my Bennche.
Enjoy and stay safe always!
Thanks RetiredGuy! That manual will be extremely helpful. In that picture you weren’t too far off from my neck of the woods in the phoenix area. Did you buy it around there, and if so, how was the purchase experience?
Do you happen to have that ECU tuner part number? Also, what kind of top end speed difference did you get from it?
I really like the heat shield idea. Will definitely take that under consideration.
I’ve been thinking of making my own. I thought I’d see what ours have done. I’m not sure how much I like the mount hanging mid way under the machine. Seems to me it would be a hassle to unhook/ remove, but I could be wrong. I thought it would be easy to find a solution, but ive looked at several universal plows and you have to get this and that and what have you to make a kit. It’s begun to make my head spin. If been looking at the Denali kits and the odes dominator kit front mount looks like it is very close to what i need. Of course I contacted them and 0 help on dimensions or anything.
Consider making your own….my Kymco had only a cheap universal mount availiable at the time I bought mine. Dropped the belly pan and created my own mid-mount. Works great, I went with a quick attach and release pile driver plow blade, veey heavy duty and can be on in two minutes. Good luck to you.
I bought mine in January 2020. So far extremely happy with the ride. Spent time 4 wheeling on the rim in AZ and all my friends ATVs were in awe that I went everywherethey went with a more comfortable ride. I had an ECU tuner put in mine which added lower end power and top end speed. It woke the engine up!
Also because of heat transfer from the engine & exhaust pipes I completely took the interior seats, doghouse and floor boards out and lined the underside of everything I could and wrapped the exhaust pipes from manifold to under the back tilt bed with heat shield products. Here’s the website: Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material & youtube vids links: Heatshield Products Inc – YouTube 90% of the heat transfer does get into the cab as it dies stock.
I attached pics as well as a copy of the service manual my dealer was kind enough to give to me.
Breaking in I patiently & painstakingly never went over 25mph the 1st 250 miles. I believe that is a reason my vehicle has had no engine or transmission problems. But everyone has different views on breaking a vehicle in.
So far I couldn’t be happier, moved to Twin Falls Idaho and looking forward to getting into the back country with my Bennche.
Enjoy and stay safe always!
I bought mine in January 2020. So far extremely happy with the ride. I had an ECU tuner put in mine which added lower end power and top end speed. It woke the engine up!
Also because of heat transfer from the engine & exhaust pipes I completely took the interior seats, doghouse and floor boards out and lined the underside of everything I could and wrapped the exhaust pipes from manifold to under the back tilt bed with heat shield products. Here’s the website: Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material & youtube vids links: Heatshield Products Inc – YouTube
Unless there’s a kit you can buy it will require quite a bit of fabrication. I turned a 4×4 into a 6×6 so everything was custom. I made the frame longer and just extended the drive shaft between the center diff and rear diff to keep all the A-arm and suspension geometry factory. Good luck
I had this exact same problem on a 700 Ranger, it was the crankshaft position sensor. I had spark, removed the injectors and was spraying great. So I figured it was electrical and traced it down to the crankshaft position sensor. When I removed it, it was rusted and look terrible. I didn’t consider my ecm/ecu as it was new.
Sootman62 wrote: I’m the buddy in the build and here are a couple pictures with it loaded. IIRC we have about 800lb tongue weight with this setup and it pulls straight and easy. Total weight was right at 6k.
Looks good with the Pioneer….would look better with a Talon :eek::)
DRBG wrote: Thanks for the info abeane94, greatly appreciated!
Just curious, how are you liking your ride? Any issues?
No problem! I’ve barely got to ride mine. Bought it needing some work and am slowly getting everything lined out. Currently waiting on a fuel pump to come in and it should be good to go. Hopefully I’ll be able to give you a little more insight in the next week or two lol fingers crossed
I’m the buddy in the build and here are a couple pictures with it loaded. IIRC we have about 800lb tongue weight with this setup and it pulls straight and easy. Total weight was right at 6k.
abeane94 wrote: Top speed on the dominator is advertised to be 63mph. I’d be lying to you if I put a number on the turning radius. But, it’s pretty good. As far as water, the air intake and cvt intake is in the middle under the dog house with both being positioned at the top. Roughly sternum high when you’re sitting in it.
Thanks for the info abeane94, greatly appreciated!
Just curious, how are you liking your ride? Any issues?
DRBG wrote: Hello all, I am doing some due diligence before purchasing a new Bennche x4 1000. As it appears to be virtually identical to the Odes Dominator X4 1000, I thought I’d post a few questions here to see if I can get some answers from people who actually have one and aren’t speculating before I commit.
First I have to ask if anyone has any regrets on purchasing their 2019 (or newer) x4 1000?
After hours and hours of searching, I still don’t see any mention of the following specs:
Top end speed?
Turn radius?
Water fording depth?
I’m not a speed demon, mostly have interest in jeep trails with some light to moderate difficulty that will be a smoother ride than our old jeep was. Also, needing the 5th seat as we have 3 children and the wife refuses to draw straws as to who should stay home since they’re all under 10 years old. I consider myself mechanically inclined but also don’t want to get myself into a bad situation.
Any help/info is greatly appreciated!
Top speed on the dominator is advertised to be 63mph. I’d be lying to you if I put a number on the turning radius. But, it’s pretty good. As far as water, the air intake and cvt intake is in the middle under the dog house with both being positioned at the top. Roughly sternum high when you’re sitting in it.
Not sure on the 800’s, but a loose valve adjustment MAY cause this, or at least contribute and is worth a quick check. I would also check fuel pressure which should be somewhere in the 39-41 range (typically). There are cost effective EFI test gauges available online as well as at Harbor Freight. Compression check done?
PS….I’m sure its happened in a SXS, but I have not heard of a key shearing and causing this. Its one of the first places I go in old outboards and small engines, I just cant recall that ever being the issue on a SXS.
Not sure which display you’re looking for but I think you might be able to find it on this site. I linked the page showing the 10.6″ display here: X4-1000
I have a 2018 Dominator 800. It was missing at idle, surging and would die as soon as you hit the throttle. I’ve also got a bad pressure regulator on my fuel pump causing similar issues but after replacing and calibrating the tps it at least idles right now and can give it gas without it dying. Just a huge lack of power from not getting enough fuel.
Has anyone tried to install the Sylvanial hid h13s in a Polaris Ranger?
I bought a pair of Sylvania Ultra bulbs that were a direct change as far as the H13 base and installed them yesterday. I am guessing I got about a 20 maybe 25 percent increase in light and brightness. I won’t know for sure until I get another good night ride in. I took the buggy for a brief ride in the neighborhood and I think it was better.
While do the exchange I took the opportunity to tighten the headlight adjustment screw and adjust the headlights again.
I’ve read you can get 28s on there pretty easy, and that the 500 is geared low enough to handle them fine. Saw one guy on 30s but it looked like a wreck waiting to happen
Hello, a lot of these SXS’s have an electronic motor that engages and disengages right at the diff. It could be stuck or a wire shorted out, possibly just a bad switch. Good luck and hope you find the problem.
Hello, I haven’t had this problem but chasing electrical issues is one of the hardest things to diagnose. I’m not sure how much money you want to sink into it but if your kill switch works then keep it, I would definitely add some kind of battery disconnect. Sound like an ecm/ecu problem though.
I wish that was around. Free service literature is hard to come by on these it seems. When I bought my General I bit the very big bullet and spent the big bucks on the OEM manual. I figure if it saved me one trip to the dealer it would pay me back.
First, I am by no reason an “expert” however, I do my research, ad nauseum. At work, we have used Can-Ams, Kawsawkis, Hondas & pretty much everything Polaris makes w/ 4 wheels (except that RZR 1). I work w/ dumb, young, inexperienced “adults” who drive it like they stole it, put jet fuel in the tanks, swap front w/ rear tires and all matters of shenanigans. Having said all that, when it came time to buy a personal SXS, we bought a Polaris Ranger 1000XP Crew. We added the roof & winch from Polaris, then added some lights, doors, etc. We use ours for skidding logs, hauling hay, hauling large dogs and grandsons across the ranch, trail riding w/ friends, etc. Look, sit, feel, drive and make your choice about what’s best for you! Best wishes & hope you enjoy your ride!
I am a Polaris guy, but I have a friend who needed a 6+ seater and bought a Kawasaki Mule Pro FXT and he loves it. He had to get it because he goes hunting a lot with a group of guys. I have another friend who owns a Ranger Crew XP 900 EPS and likes that one a lot as well. These are just large machines so it boils down to types of riding you do and cargo. Hopefully this helps.
1) Locate the cam chain tensioner on the MAG side of the engine near the starter.
2) Remove the plunger bolt and spring
3) Remove the two tensioner mounting bolts
4) Push the tensioner lock and manually move the plunger in and out. It should move freely. If it does not, replace the tensioner assy.
5) Retract the plunger all the way in and install into the cyl.
6) Install the 2 mounting bolts. Torque to spec.
7) Install the plunger bolt. Torque fastener to spec.
I don’t know how many but a group of top executives from Textron bought the Polaris brand, most of the tooling was worn out and shortly after bought tooling from John Deere as they were getting out of snowmobiles and the rest they say is history, wish I’d have bought stock back then.
DogRunner2 wrote: Leaving the key on after shutting it off does nothing. If the coolant isn’t circulating from the engine running it isn’t cooling.
Exactly. It will cool what is in the radiator, but not the coolant in the engine. The coolant in the engine probably rises in temp after shut down. I know mine goes up a few degrees after I kill it.
Pede wrote: Textron owned Polaris at one time, just about eliminated them from the market.
Accurate. I was bummed when I saw Textron using the Arctic Cat name to essentially bury debt. I hope Cat can survive as Polaris did back in the day.
I do my maintenance and have no issues that are the machine’s fault. Had to replace a couple of axles over the years, a fuel pump once, belts, but to me that is routine stuff, not a manufacturing or QA issue. I’m very pleased with all the Polaris Rangers I’ve owned.
I really don’t know anything about them. There are no resources out there. When the company went belly up the owner took a job at Hisun/Massimo in the Dallas area. I used to know his name and I tried to get info from him but they won’t let you contact him at the business and he won’t answer emails about the Titans. Good luck.
I was just given a Titan Scout however I can’t find an owner’s manual yet alone someone to help me get it running. It may just need batteries but I’m not sure which batteries to purchase as I heard the wrong ones can burn up the charging system. Any advice on this? Can you use other parts from other UTVs??
I had something like that awhile ago,check spark plugs and wires to start with, the cap that went on the coil was torn, new plug wires and problem solved.
Ok the threads on the shifter rod transmission end where stripped and the jam nut wasn’t able to lock up. I cheated the rod towards the shifter got good threads and so far just on the stand everything is working
Look at both for ergonomics for you and your group. I think both are excellent machines and choices. I have had few issues with my Polaris machines. Haters gonna hate. 🙂
I have owned nothing but Polaris. As with everything you read about things that someone is unhappy with because they are unhappy and want to complain so they take the time to do just that! Untrue with those that are happy with things because the are enjoying it and don’t have time to write about it. Don’t get me wrong they all have there issues as with everything that is man made. When comes time to buy my next SXS I wont look at anything but Polaris!:cool:
Yes, removed air filter and housing so I could see direct into throttle body. Also propped it open with screwdriver and tried stating fluid. Cylinders have 150 psi compression. Have changed 90 % of the sensors and the voltage regulator. The parts that I didn’t change have swapped with another machine to prove they work
When in neutral (freely move the vehicle to verify) the shifter arm should be at 90 degrees to the console. Reconnect your linkage and you should be fine. I bought a used ODES Dominator 800 (2013) – the previous owners had tried to force the shift lever into the gear they wanted so that the lever was actually bent. I straightened it out and then put it at 90 degrees as per the ODES manual(?) guidelines. If you are having difficulty shifting in and out of gear after verifying your shifter position (which still happens for me at times) just increase your RPMs above the normal RPM once or twice, let the RPMs die down and then it should freely move into the forward, reverse, neutral or Park that you need.
Does anybody know of any aftermarket A arms that will separate the rear tires on the 2014 Polaris Ranger 800 6×6, OR can you show me pics of a machine that has at least 28″ tires on it ! I’d like to put 28×9- 14″ on mine without doing some crazzy 6″ lift. Thanks in advance
Don’t believe everything you read, if I had to venture a guess about 85% of the “quality” issues are self inflicted, then look at the numbers, way more units on the market then anyone else will make it appear to have more issues.
Well, one issue is the result of the other. If your fan isn’t coming on, your engine/radiator will overheat and pressurize the reservoir which will force the water out of the overflow.
Now, the bigger issue is figuring out why the fan isn’t coming on.
The most common reason is that the electrical connector has come loose from the fan or you have gotten water in the connector and/or blown the fuse due to a short. A less likely scenario is that the temp sensor has failed or the ECU which controls the fan has had a failure. If you have a temp gauge on the display and it shows the engine temperature changing then it but the sensor.
To troubleshoot:
1. Check the fuse! In your owners manual find the fuse for the fan and check it. If it’s blown replace it, if it blows again you have a short, if it’s not blown keep looking…
2. Find the wires coming from the fan, follow them to the first connector you find. Carefully unplug the connector make sure there is no water or dirt in the connector, clean if there is. If you have dielectric grease, put a little on the contacts and around the seal and reconnect it. Run until it gets up to temp and see if the fan comes on, if it doesn’t keep looking…
3. Continue following the wires as far as you can looking for damage or breaks in the wires, if you come across another connector check it too.
Testing the fan and/or wires… you will need a test light or multimeter.
1. Testing for power: Run the machine until it gets up to temperature. Shut off your machine and disconnect the fan connector. Attach your test light or multimeter probes to the contacts on the connector. Start your machine and let it run for a few more minutes to make sure it’s back up to temp. If the test light comes on or your multimeter reads 12v then you are getting power to the connector and the problem is your fan. If you are not getting power to the connector then the problem is a break in your wires or the fan controller in your ECU.
2. Testing your fan: you will need a 12v battery, 12v source, or jumpers from the battery on the machine. CAUTION: Using this method will cause your fan to start spinning unexpectedly.
Disconnect the fan connector. Using small electrical probes or wires, connect one lead to the positive pole of the battery and one to the negative then carefully touch each probe the two contacts in the connector connected to the fan. (DO NOT APPLY POWER TO THE SIDE LEADING TO THE ECU! You can severely damage your ECU.)
After you have successfully applied power and the fan has not come on then it’s probably a bad fan but i would take it to a mechanic to double check. If the fan dies come on then the problem is either in the wires leading to the ECU or in the fan controller in the ECU. Again, you can take it to a mechanic to double check or just buy the parts
NOTE: Things that can damage your fan…
Driving in deep water or pressure washing can allow water to enter the fan motor or connector causing a short.
Driving in mud or collecting excessive mud in the fan or radiator can cause the fan to seize. If the fan tries to start and is packed with mud it will burn up the motor.
If the wires are not properly secured to the frame, vibration can cause the wires to break or short.
Hope this helps, good luck!
In most cases you need to use a front tire/wheel combo as a spare if your carrying only one spare. The front will fit on the rear but a rear will not work on the front due to width. Your only using it in an emergency or to get back to your trailer.
Yes, as Ken said, that is super common for CVT’s without some sort of engine braking. My old Ranger didn’t have engine braking and it took a minute to learn to hit the throttle to slow down :eek:. I used to call the move the “Polaris 2 step” ;).
The free wheeling part is standard for a cvt unless you have an engine braking system, by slightly pushing the throttle you are engaging the belt which will then work as an engine brake system. Some are automatic and others need to be engaged with slight pressure on the throttle.
I purchased an Odes Comrade in August 2019 then come to find they are in bankruptcy.
When I got machine it would not charge. Tried to get help from Odes but now no one answers so had to figure prob out myself. I changed the stator and regulator which cured the trouble. After that the machine is a tank.
I haven’t been able to find a parts supplier. Had to find items on the net to replace them.
I am concerned about future troubles. Does anyone know where I can get parts in the future? The machine I have is the Comrade 650 2019. Help! I’d hate to have to junk this machine for lack of parts access.
I have a problem when machine is cold. When going downhill it will freewheel like the clutch is overrunning. If I just gently touch the throttle the clutch catches again and is fine. From what I have been told this appears to be a common thing for CTV transmissions. Anyone else have this problem? Again, HELP!!
Cliveras wrote: Are you able to ride right from the Trek to the Ferry and onto the Island?
I am 99% sure that you cant unless you are street legal. If I recall correctly, the main road that leads from the ferry into town does not allow SXS past a certain point. Again, if memory serves me right, you are ok on this road going from the east side of the island west until you get to the main intersection in town. Past that point, no SXS allowed.
Probably not…. But, depending on the level of dust you encounter, many manufacturers will consider this on the “extreme” side of the spectrum for determining your service intervals. Same thing with cold weather operation which can lead to more condensation in the oil if you do shorter trips or runs.
I plan to start taking long trips with my wife in my General. I don’t push envelopes, like going extreme off-road and jumping things and doing 50 on trail I don’t know and haven’t been down. Mostly I just go the speed limit. It is more exploration than anything else. Fun with land navigation while just cruising.
But still, the place I want to go is a long way out and I’m not sure there is cell reception there.
So if I were to bring spare parts, what is recommended? If I were to build a tool kit to support the extra parts, what tools should I bring? I want to make up a shadow boxed kit of tools.
I plan to bring a 2 gallon can of gas.
Also, fix-a-flat? Or a spare? I’m just not sure I can fit a spare and would probably have to buy a mount.
This is a day trip planned but it will be a long day trip.
There is some wildlife up in that area that should not be underestimated. Nothing like Alaska but still…..
I definitely will bring a first aid kit, flashlights and food/water.
Just wondering about the likely parts that could break and tools needed on a long day cruise in possible high heat.
Its dry and dusty along that way.
Thanks,
M
Parts used in CVT & Engine air intake modifications:
K&N RG-1003RD-L Universal Clamp-On Air Filter which is according to K&N a High Performance, Premium, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 2.75 In, Filter Height: 4.5 In, Flange Length: 1 In, Shape: Round Tapered
2” PVC Pipe parts used for air intake: 90° elbow, straight coupling, 2” x 2” White PVC pipe.
The primary air intake hose is directly behind the driver’s seat and I used the straight coupling and a piece of the PVC pipe to go into the air intake hose and clamped it tight.
I cut the coupling down to about 1.5” length
The pipe fittings being a little larger fit inside the air filter throat snuggly then the band clamp is tightened.
Then the 2” PVC Pipe fits into the straight coupling and then into the air intake hose and the band clamp is tightened.
I used the 90° coupling on the CVT to put the filter under the back rest of the passenger seat.
I lucked out with the CVT filter it is supported with the elbow just fine, but the primary air filter behind the driver’s seat wants to work its way out due to vibration. To remedy that I fashioned a hold down clamp out of 1” steel banding. That is held in place with two small bolts. One side of the hold down is a nylock nut and the other is a wing nut to allow for easy removal for cleaning.
I have everything to change all the fluids. I don’t get to come home enough to have time to check the tensioner. Labor Day weekend will give me more time and I can attempt that. I still don’t know how to rotate the engine to line up the timing marks.
How critical is it to check that after 200 hours?
I am also a big guy 6’5″ and tipping the scales at the right weight to be around 7’…. I ended up purchasing a yamaha Viking VI wich I have had for 3 years now. I have been very happy with it. We have 4 kids…. plenty of room and utility. I wish I had more power sometimes (700CC), but then again, it will hit close to 50 MPH and I dont need to go any faster.
Shop around for you Polaris Oil and filters. Rocky Mountain ATV is fairly decent sometimes. That said, if you find a dealer/stealership with decent prices do some price comparisons and don’t be afraid to ask for price matching, the dealerships have a pretty good price markup to work with.
OK I found a video of a tensioner install for a RZR. Not sure if it would be the same on my General. The manual says to check the tensioner. So does that mean to pull that cover and look at the cam timing mark position and see if the belt looks tight and not slacking?
Here is my next question; Is the tensioner there to keep that chain tight so it doesn’t jump off those timing gears or jump timing?
Last time I bought oil and filter at the Polaris dealer, it was a bit steep in price. Any suggestions of what brand of oil others here use for their General 1000’s?
By the way, the water was boiling and blowing out the radiator. And now that I think about it, the radiator wasn’t always hot. Just the water boiling out of the overflow.
I’m thinking it is the impeller on the water pump. I just bought an electric water pump for a Toyota Prius and I’m going to give that a shot. The hose size on the water pump is the same size as the hoses on the Ravager. There will be a consistent flow of coolant, especially at low speed mud and climbs. I will let you all know if this works.
That video is good for that particular auto but the Polaris tensioner is not like that one.
The cams have to be positioned correctly to keep from getting slack in the chain when the tensioner is removed and the reset is different when the tensioner is reinstalled.
It would probably be better to look at a video that is specifically about the Polaris which are available but I can’t link to or get a shop manual which will have specific step by step instructions on how to do it.
On your maintenance chart the ‘maintenance interval’ means every time you turn over 100 hours you should change the oil, etc.
Start at the top and go down.
Some things you check before every ride
Some things every 25 hours.
The engine oil and filter, transmission and front differential change every 100 hours or 1000 miles.
Change brake fluid every two years or 200 hours.
Change coolant every 60 months.
It is all there in the chart. You will just need to familiarize yourself with it.
JOE YOUNT wrote: Check the brake fluid level at every service/oil change. I would recommend you buy or download an Owners Manual for your machine Most all you needed information is in there along with a lot of critical info.
I have an owners manual, that’s how I found out the 200 hour service recommendations which I listed before. The ratcheting cam chain tensioner is something I don’t know how to adjust.
How often should I do an engine oil change?
How often should I change the plugs?
It doesn’t actually say in the manual or I missed it.
So it’s not flooding. I have replaced the voltage regulator the TPS and the still no luck. Is there anything that electrically will advance or retard the timing?
Check the brake fluid level at every service/oil change. I would recommend you buy or download an Owners Manual for your machine Most all you needed information is in there along with a lot of critical info.
Apparently, I am over 200 hours on the engine now.
The manual says two things at 200. hours;
Ratcheting Cam Chain Tensioner. (I have no idea what that is and where that is)
Brake Fluid. This one is self explanatory but I can’t tell whether its saying check the level or change the fluid completely out.
So what does others on this forum do at 200 hours? I will say its running fine.
Do y’all recommend getting Polaris brand fluids or will other fluids at the auto parts store do?
nice gear
Boundless adventures. Distant exploration. Polaris XPEDITION. Coming 5.16.23
#KeepChasingTheWild #PolarisXPEDITION
which has the longest leg room for over 6 ft people
Yay, you helped us a lot by suggesting that we don’t have to worry about riding an ATV if we put on appropriate safety equipment. My cousin and his family plan to try some outdoor activities during their trip to Florida next week. I’ll recommend this article to them so they make further arrangements with a tour company.
Thank you. Though the article is simple and most of us have thought of these, it was enough of a refresher to make me Re-Think and Re-Visit my First-Aid kit I keep onboard.
Insurance is also a topic many never think about. Not just insuring your rig but also liability insurance to cover passengers and others.
sxsnation-dave
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There is an extensive trail system to the northwest of St. Ignace. So after the crossing go wild!
https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/things-to-do/orv-riding/maps-list#EUP
Hopefully we will stop by DTF soon and check this new rig out.
Nice machine
The DTF Crew at Royal Blue has got it going on!!!
FixMyToys
MotoAlliance
Great looking SXS.
Kawasakis Teyrx is looking good.
MotoAlliance
FixMyToys
Motoalliance
MotoAlliance
FixMyToys
MotoAlliance
What if you’re already subscribed?
Then you are good.
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
FixMy Toys
FixMy Toys
FixMyToys
Currently using the TYT Radio paired with the Browning NGP Antenna. The radio was programmed and sold by SXS Radios. Excellent performance and Excellent support .
FixMyToys
I can’t wait to see what he has done on mine.
Gary and his team at Gforce are awesome. Gforce went thru my Fox Podium 2.0 shocks. The performance of my shocks is NOW what it should’ve been from the factory.
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
Fix my toys!
FixMyToys
FixMy Toys
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FIXMYTOYS
Fix my new toys add ons.
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
FixMyToys
I have one, and GPS is just ok. Sense Magellan lost the satellite view contract I loaded Gaia and use that. I do like the gauge screen, but for the price, you would be better off buying a tablet and running Gaia or something like it. They really need to bring back the satellite view to make it worthwhile as a competitor to the platforms as well as more available trail downloads.
It is perfect time to make some plans for the future and it is time to be happy. I’ve read this post and if I could I desire to suggest you few interesting things or suggestions. Maybe you can write next articles referring to this article. I wish to read more things about it!
You can’t beat the system from THE COM. They also have excellent customer support.
I feel this is one of the most vital info for me. And i am satisfied reading your article. But wanna remark on few general issues, The site style is perfect, the articles is truly excellent : D. Good task, cheers
Very smart businessman. It will be interesting to see how the future of brick-and-mortar playout in the years to come. I have a feeling there will be a day when everything will be ordered online and you will only go to the dealer for repairs.
The 223 Frontline in grey is looking good!!!
@the-com
TKOAM
We currently use the TYT two way radios. They are setup / programmed by SXS RADIOS. They are currently set on the FMS channel frequencies. Do you know if they will work with the COM Radios?
This will be exciting!!
I bet the Stage 5 sounds AWESOME!!
Thanks for this post!
Is there any off-road areas to ride near this bridge?
Hey! Quick question that’s totally off topic. Do you know how to make your site mobile friendly? My website looks weird when viewing from my iphone4. I’m trying to find a theme or plugin that might be able to fix this issue. If you have any suggestions, please share. With thanks!
Here are some comments from over at RZR Nation:
Jose Arturo
I dont know how i feel with those batteries going in flame going down hill or if a piece of wood pierce the batteries ? water gests inside while mudding ⚡️ ☠️
Hunter XJ
Jose Arturo I guess you haven’t seen all the current sxs that burn down have ya lol.
Cephus Hogan
Must be a Biden buggy?
Brick Jf
Ok so we’re just back to Jeeps now!
Kelvin Berg
Batteries are incapsulated. Goodbye snorkels. Goodbye maintenance.
Will Buccieri
Kelvin Berg i work on electric motors all day, Everything needs maintenance and all mechanical parts fail eventually
Wheel bearings and suspension components wear out
Motors are not waterproof and electrical components fail or fault more often than mechanical parts
James Baker
Kelvin Berg Good Bye all day rides.
Rzr Georgia
Goodbye petrol stations, engine,starter, transmission, exhaust, oil and filters, voice
Nick Feller
Rzr Georgia goodbye reliability. Not that we ever had reliability to begin with!
Cassie Goldgehn
I’m excited to see where electric SxS’s go. I enjoy watching technological growth.
Nick Feller
If I can’t hear it, I don’t want it
Brandon L Johnson
Dem prices ??
Anthony Conley
No thank you
Cody Unger
No
Brandon Minick
What about the Brawley with 400hp
May be an image of car, jeep and text
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick 50 k ?
Brandon Minick
Marc Hom it’s 5k more than that with an extended battery!
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick
Brandon Minick
Marc Hom I’m staying with gas until we have no choice but it’s inevitable.
Marc Hom
Brandon Minick I don’t think inevitable. There are just as many drawbacks to electric as fuel . Such as cold weather and electric don’t mix very well . Ask a Tesla owner in the northern climates .
Jeff Bertoni
Keep it
Alain Moran
So charging stations on the trails? Well guess get ready for the golf course.
Greg Flack
A)Id rather someone bring me gas instead of a generator WITH GAS
B )Batteries are heavy and charge don’t last
Kirk Sachs
We are 2-3 major technical innovations away from a practical electric sport sxs. Not worth even considering it yet.
Tom Sardo
Kirk Sachs it would be great now for a lot of people, we both know most don’t even get over 50 miles in a weekend hahahaha.
Janet Waisanen
Kenneth Waisanen
Shane DeLawder
Technology isn’t there yet and ma never be.
Rod Eggleston
Junk keep it
Tom Sardo
That’s pretty cool, would be a much simpler drive line as you only need 2 motors and 4 axle shafts. No belts or gears to deal with. Range isn’t as big an issue as most don’t drive 100+ miles in a day or even weekend. For an around the farm/property … See more
Brandon Minick
Tom Sardo brawley has 4 motors so no axles or any of that stuff to fail.
Jeff Gilroy
Brandon Minick also like $50k MSRP but they probably tear it up. My dealer was saying they get 200 miles on a charge but I bet that’s stretching it.
Brandon Minick
Jeff Gilroy I just want to know how they keep 400hp from breaking itself.
Tom Sardo
Brandon Minick I saw that but it’s also 50k, I was thinking more affordable/practical to appeal to more people.
Like for people who can ride from their house or a place that has power. Long as you can get 50 miles per charge that would work for a … See more
Tom Sardo
Brandon Minick direct drive to the wheel. Nothing to break and that’s peak motor power.
Tom Sardo
Jeff Gilroy realistically I’d say 80% of users would be fine with 50 miles of hard use per charge.
John Befort
Brandon Minick so 4 motors to fail instead?
Jeff Gilroy
Tom Sardo yeah I’d probably agree with you. I’d need a bit more range for what I do.
I’d probably change my mind and sell my soul if I drove one though. They’ve got to be fast as heck.
Brandon Minick
John Befort motors are such a simple machine that it makes them reliable by nature.
Kai Herrmann
John Befort i wouldn’t worry about that. How many years do your electric motor ceiling fans last? 10? 20? Electric motors are very, very reliable and long lasting.
Brandon Minick
Tom Sardo brawley is saying 200 mile range
Kyle Rishor
They weigh more than a car?
Carl Sykes
May be an image of text that says ‘7:16 M Wed Feb Priced at $34,950.00* *Destination and preparation not included 82% Bosco Blue Atomic Green Brawley™ by the numbers* HORSEPOWER 303 lb-ft TORQUE TQU(Ib-ft) (Ib-ft) 360 MILES ON CHARGE (est.) 140’
Wesley Kemp
Junk
Carl Sykes
Higher priced is fully enclosed with heat and AC
William Kahler
Maybe this is Robby Gordons next ponzi scheme lol!
Kai Herrmann
I want one. No engine noise, no cvt, heat and AC, tons of torque for rock crawling. Too bad they’re going to cost as much as a Jeep.
Hunter XJ
Cannot wait to see the electronic world play out, more power, less bullshit. It’s gonna be a good time ?
Here are some comments that were received or at Teryx Nation:
Aaron Corro
42 mile range!?
Ha. That’s a joke…right!?
Ken Winter
Aaron Corro how many miles would it get if ya put tracks on it…… 20
No thanks
Aaron Corro
Ken Winter
20 if you’re lucky!!!
John Devine
Is this the Speed UTV everyone’s talking about?
Randy Krauthamer
Idiotic
James L Syfrett
how this thing going to handle water and mud and other cases rocky tarrain
Joe Allbritten
Lithium Ion battery gets damaged and the thing catches on fire!
Bob Logan
Should be fun on a 100,mile ride…wherr a real teryx would have to tow you home
Daniel Turnage
Some of these guys would still think their hot and loud ?
Jeff Mettille
Daniel Turnage true
Matt Selph
Yall busy talking shit about these but these are just the first of their kind and already doubling and quadrupling the torque of your SXS… I prefer gas to electric but as batteries become more advanced/durable, electric motors are superior… in EVERY application. Look around you.. electric motors everywhere.
Anthony Deeds
Matt Selph coincidence that you have a , “let’s get vaccinated” banner? Maybe, probably not, but maybe.
Matt Selph
Anthony Deeds that’s done as a joke… lol I’m not vaccinated. #pureblood
Anthony Deeds
Matt Selph, your humor is appreciated and therefore makes you an exalted member of this group. That said, the electric motor has a longggg way to go. Unless they make major improvements to longevity, and timely, I’m not quite sold.
Anthony Deeds
I’m am though, extremely hopeful ?♂️ hell, I’m all for it.
Matt Selph
Anthony Deeds I’m not sold either… but the improvements are happening. I’m still putting dinosaur juice in all my motors..
William Smith Dawson
Matt Selph everyday i drive a Tesla very powerful and stage 2 at home while I sleep.300 miles a day. Never had to go to a supercharger yet
Jason R. Swarm
The way we ride we would be electrocuted the first time out. We play in the mud too much for that.
Donaldson Errick
Jason R. Swarm I’d run out of juice to quick crawling on rocks
JT Nicholson
Donaldson Errick me too
Blaze Kaltenbaugh
It would have to be real water tight for me to trust it after seeing all those flooded teslas burn.
Aj Learn
Don’t roll it. Wieght flatten ya
Aj Learn
These are suppose to be off road toys. Not freaking cars. Costs are already ridiculous
Douglas Snider
You do realize that it takes fossil fuels to produce all the components of these electric toys right?
Including the plastic cases the batteries use.
Mankind can’t exist without petroleum and coal.
China knows it… Russia knows it… India knows it…seems the entire world knows it except for the woke stunning and brave crowd.
For every coal mine closed in the United States the other countries are opening up three new plants.
Wake up and smell the gas fumes folks!
Solar panels are maintained by gas powered pressure washers to clean the dirt off the panels…panels made with petroleum products.
Windmills use 50-60 gallons of oil to to lubricate the inner workings in each windmill and needs to be changed at regular intervals.
We are light years away from a futuristic Jetsons scenario..
But don’t let the facts stop you from clicking those ruby slippers together while chanting….”there’s no fuel like renewable fuel” three times!
Hell, it could work, worth a shot I guess. ?
Joseph Casanova
Y’all better enjoy the mud holes now hearing all the motors, soon it’ll be so quiet. All ya gonna hear is radios and people talking.
Edward Berger
I watched my 2yr old drive his power wheel four wheeler across the house last night and thought to myself , he’ll never grow out of the power wheel stage ,
It’ll be bigger power wheels as he gets older and everything is electric ?♂️
150-300 mile range ? Hell we ride 300-500 miles at a time—this would be completely useless…. No charging stations in the middle of no where- besides the electrical grids cant keep up—-complete was of $$$- just more control over us
I am #5 now. I put a lot of effort into this. I would like to thank my mom, my dad, and my 2 cats
You are actually #4 because I don’t count.
I can’t wait to get it installed and see how it sounds.
Really good looking exhaust.
The odes 400 is 95% cross compatible with the HONDA Rancher 350.. It says so right on the odes website. I hope you all have happy holidays … I only made an account to post this one piece of information for you all
Here you go.
[URL unfurl=true]https://psnations.com/index.php?categories/nation-marketplace.80/[/URL]
I’m sure the bolt pattern is the same. My question would be is there enough clearance?
Definitely a dual rate setup. A tender kit doesn’t improve ride quality and only raises your ride height. What model do you have? Give us a call if you looking for a spring kit, currently we are giving 10% off the cost of a spring kit when installing with our PSM setup (Rebuild/Revalve). I’d advise against the company you are looking at. We have seen multiple customers with shock body damage and setups that run way too soft of spring rates, requiring extensive preload amounts.
[URL unfurl=true]https://www.schmidtyracing.com/default.asp[/URL]
I can only imagine what the aftermarket companies will be able to do with that motor.
I have heard that as well. One of those versions is just over 200hp. BUT…that motor would be screamin for some boost….
I have heard rumors this is the same engine they have in the Slingshot.
My thoughts….looks like a Pro XP. But looking at that patent, this is real interesting!
Looks like a huge departure from the usual 2 cyl Polaris lay out!
Looks like more of a traditional flywheel on here as well….maybe some sort of pressure plate type clutch?
My Polaris is already done up, but you guys will be getting my 85′ ATC 250R shock and probably forks as well to go thru and re-set up for my weight and machine setup. Looks like you guys do some real nice stuff.
If you are looking to upgrade your suspension you have to check them out.
Is the radiator clean or blocked in any way?
Odes 800 parts for sell, 2013 but will fit more years and sizes, CD parts and repair manuals for 800/1000 cc lots and lots of info on these machines, and one way clutch bearing, new in pack, this is must have parts for these cats, thanks TR text 352 425 8545 calls won’t be answered, thanks again
No draw, just as a security measure.
I installed this exact one on our camper. I put it on the a-frame for the tongue near the battery box. It works well and gets rid of the constant draw from the fire alarm and Co detector that run all the time. If it were me, I would put it under the seat somewhere fairly close to the battery.
I have never had a Polaris kill my battery, even after sitting for quite a while. Do you have some sort of draw on the battery?
Thank you. I’m looking for a sport machine. I never really thought about sitting in a few different ones but that does make sense!
First determine if you want a sport or utility machine (like Ranger v Rzr), then look at any width restrictions you may have. That will help narrow the field down a bit. Everyone fits in these things different, so my best advice is to go sit in and if possible test drive a few. You may find the ergonomics are a quick rule out for one or more. You may find things like power, noise level, etc rule others out. The great news is, you are coming in at a great time in terms of selection. All the brands have a ton to offer these days. I have Polaris now, but would not hesitate to get into something else if it were the right machine.
I very much like these machines in every way but the power department. I skimmed the article and didn’t see any addition of power. I think if they were to add a little more juice to that bad ass Kaw motor, they would have a real contender here.
Went at it again today. Decided to clean and check all calipers to make sure parts were good. Started with rear passenger bleed – good, then driver passenger bleed – good. Cleaned bleeder valve and started front passenger – no fluid. Cleaned bleeder valve and started front driver – no fluid. Cleaned master cylinder “ports”; connected vacuum directly to front master cylinder line – got fluid. Reconnected the front line, started with passenger and still no fluid; same on drivers side.
Kristi
That looks like an awesome tool.
That thing is BAD ASS! Congrats!
Nice looking machine. Congratulations!
I have to agree on the clutches.
Very cool. I’ve seen these magnetic lens goggles catching on. I love the quick change lens. I usually run with clear which can suck during a bright sunny day, but ensures I can see if out after dark or the weather changes. I’ll have to give em a shot.
PS….seems like we cant win with clutches this year….
Hi All,
I have a 20014 Dominator 800, X2 side by side UTV. Starts and runs great but when i switch it in gear dies immediately no difference forward or revers it does the same. I can not tell if both clutches should be spinning when in neutral or only the primary clutch should spin when I am in neutral?
Attached is a video of what it does. Notice that it is running in Neutral and BOTH clutches are spinning. ( I though that only the primary should be spinning when in neutral) then i push the lever into 1st High gear – it jumps and Dies immediately.
Here is a link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVEwZcNWR5E
Please if you can help with what should I be looking to fix?
It’s about an hour for us. They are having a big festival there the weekend of the 25th. Thinking about goin back. they are supposed to have another 70 acers opened for the event.
Looks like a cool place. I would like to go check it out, but keep forgetting its there. Its only about 40 min from our house.
I think this will become a common theme with powersports manufacturers across the board. The demand for these machines is insane right now. I also cant imagine the profit margins on other products are as large as they are for the SXS’s.
I don’t have the manual on that older Rangers, but I would think if the seal isn’t captured by some sort of lip in the casting it could be replaced using usual techniques. I usually use a flange sealant on the outside diameter of the seals if they are metal on metal. Looks to be a fairly easy swap with the access you have. Keep us posted.
Prob a good deal then. Thanks
Very nice guys. Im gonna get a set ordered here very soon. I really like this solution for when the kids are with us in the back. Simple and effective!
Awesome. I will get a set ordered asap. Great solution, I love it!
@Seastacker
Here you go Carl.
We are ready to go for the Polaris General folks – We are happy to give you an option for your passengers and pets. These tested GREAT and are now available – 6 attachment points with the strongest bungees made (they are custom made for us in the pacific northwest) and still allow some air flow for your passengers – while it looks simple – the general has alot of obstructions on its cage and it took us awhile to get it right. as ALWAYS – all material and labor are from this great country – we are the only Net mfr that can say this to my knowledge.
They did tell me they will have something for the Generals soon. @Vet Nets
Very nice. I hope you come out with one for the Pro’s eyebrow.
I would guess the ML3 is an older model seeing it is not listed on the Maxxis site.
Our discount code, BTW, is RZRNATION for 10% off our entire site!
Thank you!! We’re glad to be a part of SXS Nation! I’ll be doing posts on here shortly!
I missed this, but Osta Cruiser is a cool dude. AWESOME You Tube channel for those who havnt seen him.
Thank you. That’s my baby
Nice looking fleet there Tony! I LOVE that Ford! What a beauty!
Well I have tender springs that are being delivered today along with high clearance a arms 2″ forward offset A arms. Hoping to get them on by Saturdays ride.
Hi Dave, this is Anna from MICTUNING, How can I do a giveaway here?
I did shock therepy on my General. I am one that swears that the cost is worth it. Shocks will be in my top 3 mods from this point forward on any machine I get. I will say that the General shocks are decent Fox 2.0, but may not be as good as some shock packages that come standard on many of the RZR models. I cant say with 100% confidence it will make the same level of difference on your machine versus the General.
I have put new tender springs on my XP Pro. I can tell you it has made a world of difference in the ride and was able to get back my ride heights. There are a lot of people that swear by the full dual rate kites but I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra money.
I use a BULLDOG cover from Walmart about $50.00.
Adjust valves. .006″ Exhaust .004″ Intake
Looking at this PRV system, it seems the dowel is too short and with the clearance, enables dowel to cock a bit in the bore. Add the fluttering when the engine is running, and it quickly wears the alum. bore so it may stick again no matter what the dowel looks like.
A fix may be to make another dowel 2x longer and provide 1/2 the cocking and twice the bearing area. This needs a corresponding spring for proper relief pressure. This is if you do not do the 2 ball method.
cliff
Thank you for the introduction, I look forward to working with you guys and hopefully building some cool stuff for the forum users!
We are glad to be part of this awesome community! Thank you for having us! Please enjoy 10% OFF on us with code: SXSNATION10
Very nice looking trailers. Cool design!
I have not but in general I’ve had great luck with Tusk branded parts and tools.
I have the plastic windows in my Ranger. After 6 years the windows are very hard to see thru due to scratches. To bad they can’t be easily replaced. I would prefer a plexiglass slide up window that I could replace if I had it to do over.
Hello SXSNation! I live in Michigan during the summer months and am traveling to Arizona for the winter months. My wife and I are both retired and enjoying it very much. We just purchased a 2021 Teryx 4 S LE (Red) and are looking forward to some desert riding and rock picking this coming winter!
Did I post this Intro post in the wrong section? I got zero replies.?
Done
.After looking all over the internet for three days for a handle for my tip out windshield decided to use what was available and fix what I had. Apparently, there is no one that sells the handle PN # 5452827 with the springs PN #s 7043894 & 7043895. I had a broken place on the outside edge of the handle where the pin holds the handle on the windshield which also holds the spring in place. That was my priority.
THIS ATTEMPTED REPAIR DID NOT WORK AND BROKE AGAIN ON MY FIRST RIDE. I fixed it by drilling 1/16” hold in both sides of the handle above the break. Then I took a small length of 24-gauge wire and shaped it around the broken area and inserted a ¼” into the holes. That was easy but it would slide off without some support. I used my plastic welder to heat the wire and melt it into the handle than using a bit more plastic I built it up all the way around.
I ended up buying a new handle and bought two packs of springs from Graingers. Once I figured out how the springs were supposed to work the installation of new springs was pretty much a snap.
I compressed the legs of the springs together and held them together with a zip tie. Then with the legs pointing forward I inserted the coil into the handle and pushed / worked the retaining pin into place. Then it was a simple matter of getting the screw into the pin.
WOW. My new handle stays up where it is supposed to and I have a couple spare springs if needed.
Once I figured it out using the old handle I put the new handle in in about 20 or 30 minutes with testing.
For the heater I would install shutoff valves so no fluid runs through the heater core when you don’t want heat.
I also have the Pro XP and the heat can be almost unbearable on hot days. All of the coolant and intercooler lines run through the tunnel and radiate a lot of heat. I pulled my center console and wrapped all the line in insolation. It helped put not like I was hopping. I’m going to try and run a thin bead of caulk along all the seams to see if that will help.
They all have there goo and bad. My best recommendation would be to go and sit in them and drive them if possible. Choose the one that best fits your needs.
Check out https://gritnationsxs.com/ they are one of our sponsors. If they don’t have what you are looking for shot them an email and I’m sure they can help.
I would personally go with the Pro. BUT…I ride Michigan which is more trails that open area. The 64″ is more appealing to me for that sort of use. I know out west it seems the wider the better. Some people seem to prefer the styling of the S better, but I honestly love both. I think the Pro is the next step in the evolution. These are my opinions only and I have not personally driven either to make a direct comparison.
If you ever head North, let me know, lots of places to ride up here.
I’m having the same rattle in my 2014 Raider, i know theres alot of slop but have you replaced the driveshaft if so where might ya of gotten it
depending what your looking for might try e bay, or find a donor vehicle,
Fox shock part no.
Also must use a 3″ inch extension to be same length as originals shocks.
UPDATE: I installed the Prius water pump and a radiator/fan from a Polaris 500 ATV on the roll cage behind between the seats. All parts bought on Amazon. This thing runs great! The front radiator is still in place. I never touched the existing water pump. I had to put a switch on the UTV for the rear cooling fan. If I leave the fan turned on the SXS will not warm up. I turn it on at 150 degrees and I just leave it on. The temp runs between 165-185, depending on how hard I am running. And the rear radiator looks pretty mean. Now that it is running good, I have no complaints. This thing runs like a beast! My friends can’t believe the way this thing runs through the mud. I have only gotten stuck once.
So far I have noticed a little smoother ride over most of the dirt roads, some gentler ride climbing rocky hills and better clearance. So, I think I like the change.
Might also want to consider repair potential in the field. If the buggy breaks down will you be able to mend it enough to get back to your staging area or back home.
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Mine, which is a 19 General 1000, has been starting wonderfully for two years in Winter and Summer. Now its Winter of 2021 and its having some trouble starting when its cold.
Once its warmed up, nothing is wrong. But in the morning, it has to be cranked a bit to get it to fire.
I watched that video that shows the troubleshooting.
Where do I get that PC app and whatever lead he used to plug it into the Polaris’ computer? (And where does that plug in, I couldn’t see where in the video, too small)
He ended up with valve lash, is adjusting valves a big job on these?
Thanks for any Info!!
Mike
The SC mud dries really hard but is not as slick and doesn’t stain the red clay in Oklahoma.
The windshield, roof, helmets and rain gear were all covered
Here is your a great option – not cheap – but a proven – ready to get product with great fit and finish.
Full Body Skid Plate link: Polaris RZR Pro XP 4 UHMW Skid Plate – Factory UTV –
Front A Arms Skid link: Polaris RZR Pro XP UHMW A-Arm Guards – Factory UTV –
Trailing Arms link: Polaris RZR Pro XP UHMW Trailing Arm Guards – Factory UTV –
Rock Sliders: Polaris RZR Pro XP UHMW Rock Sliders – in 1/2″ or 3/8″ – Factory UTV –
I have 2020 XP Pro 4 Ultimate – also looking for insurance – thx for information – having agent look into Foremost. Here is CA not as many options – got quotes from Progressive and Geico – with $1,000 deductible – both were around $1,000 per year. Hoping to get something for better overall pricing – theft and liability are the most important things for me, as I am pretty much past my dumb $#i! days, but saw someone who got t-boned by a buggy this past weekend at the dunes – so there is the “other” dumb $#i! you have to insure for!
The long wheelbase is mostly a disadvantage on tight trails.
With large tires and good ground clearance the longer wheelbase will usually go places easier than the shorter ones and larger is more stable on steep inclines.
The Mule Pro FXT doesn’t have a front locker so it would not be a choice for me for rock crawling. For that you will be much happier with a sport with its much better suspension and design more suited for that type of terrain.
The Talon… . They have about as many problems as everyone else, some of them serious. Not telling you to dismiss them but research is in order just so you know up front. Low range problems, differential seals, bad air intake location, harsh ride, etc.
If you want a shorter four seat you might consider the Yamaha Wolverine RMax 1000 or Kawasaki Teryx.
The RMax is new this year and is very capable and a good all around rig and is suited very well for the type of riding you want to do. The Wolverine X4 850 is the same length and is a good vehicle but the suspension is not as good as the RMax.
The Teryx is very capable but an older design and not as refined as some of the newer vehicles.
The Can Am Sport max is a nice capable rig and seems to be very reliable. The Maverick X3 models might be what you are looking for also.
The RZR vehicles are very capable and more reliable than you might think.
Like Seastacker said, a comparison ride in as many different vehicles as you can will help you in the long run.
Sounds good Carl! Havasu is a wonderful place to go riding during those cold winters in Michigan! 🙂 (Just don’t go to Havasu during the summer months as it is too hot here to do anything other than stay inside with the AC on!) 😮
Not sure in Florida, but there are several Fla members here, so bump to the top.
Don’t let a more utility looking machine fool ya. Most are very capable. I suggest driving all you are considering. I wouldn’t say I “rock crawl”, but I have been to Royal Blue as well as a part of Wind Rock in Tennessee and never felt like the 4 seater held me back. Clearly there are limitations to the longer wheel base, but I guess that depends what you mean by rock crawl. I have seen some 4 seaters out west with the right tires so some downright crazy stuff!
I have a General 4 which is long. I have seldom felt the length to be an issue. I have never specifically ridden PA, but I have ridden extensively in MI and have also been on some tight, technical trails in TN.
Very nice! Amazing what a difference shocks can make. Shock improvements are at the top of my list of mods now after riding with Shock Therepy treatment for a while. It can transform a machine.
Agree w/ Pede, Start with clutches and belt. Hit the sheaves with scotch brite. Make sure belt is ok visually. It may not be a bad idea to throw the spare belt on there to rule that out. If you dont have a spare, you will need one anyway. Good to start w/ basics.
If the motor seems to be running OK, I’d look at the clutches.
Cant picture a 6 seater doing much rock crawling, in fact even a 4 seat with that long wheelbase. I see how difficult it has been with my 2 seat utv. The longer wheel base could cause issues in my opinion.
I never worry about friends going along, they can ride there own machine!!
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I’m a new owner of a 2018 Dominator 800 LT X4, I’m also looking for somewhere to get parts, the Odes website has a few things but when I finally got to talk to someone was told they don’t stock parts for anything older than a 2019. They gave me a number for a shop in Mo. The number is 573-346-6867 they gave me the belt# and I was able to cross reference it and get it locally, if someone knows of a site I also would greatly appreciate the info.
I know this is an old thread but I was curious if the ball bearings held up and resolved the dowel sticking issue. I have a 12 RZR 800 and I’ve been considering using the ball bearings for piece of mind. I’ve read all kinds of horror stories of the valve sticking and blowing motors.
Thank ya!
Like to see a picture of the driver..
I live fairly close to the Rodman Dam trailhead (Lake Ocklawaha) so we usually do the big loop around Lake Delancy. Not a lot of mud but plenty of soft sand and sugar sand. I use the Polaris Ride command app to keep track of where I’m at and it has been spot on accurate for a map out there. Last couple of weeks there has been some trail maintenance crews in random spots.
Hi! Did you find the the right connection for the brown,yellow and red wires? i have the exactly same problem on my atv.
I think you made a good choice to move off FB or the “Demdumbdownbook”. I have been a member here since SXS started. I will be lookin forward to your ride announcements, reports and especially pictures.
No doubt there are different muds. Michigan mud is a mess, but clean up fairly easy. Tennessee mud is like glue and hardens to cement like hardness. I cant recall WV mud, so it must not have been too bad.
i also have a cfmoto 800 trail. I looked around for a month or so at can am, polaris, yamaha and cfmoto. being i never heard about cfmoto i was a little leary. but after researching their product and joining a few of the forums i decided to pull the trigger. i have been very pleased with the performance. it will go anywhere and do anything the other brands will do. yes the aftermarket is a little to be desired, but i believe that will change in the next year or so, being they are starting to become more popular in the US. the other motivating factor to buying cfmoto over polaris or can am was all the extras you get with their manchines. to add a roof, doors, differential lock, adjustable gas shocks, winch and mirrors to the other brands was nearly $4000 more. cfmoto also comes with a 1 year warranty where the others are 6 months. all machines have their issues, however. good luck on your decision.
Joe,
Thanks. I’ll do that. Feel silly for not thinking of it. It came with a plug so I just unthinkingly plugged it in without further ado. 🙂
Alec
The mud there sticks like glue! I’m still finding mud on mine after a couple weeks ago..
Many hours with a pressure washer and it is mostly clean…still some hidden places of mud popping up. The best thing is my wife was at least a 50% contributor to the state of the machine. I have been off road in some form most of my life and have never experienced mud like this. It was truly astonishing.
Check the master fuse
Holy cow….it has to be close. Now you get to explore the joy of cleaning one of these things which is one of the “joys” of ownership. May as well get it all broke in right! lol
That’s not a bad deal. I pay $550 a year for both my General and Honda 250R. Most of the cost is in the General. Seems like a reasonable deal. Well worth the cost to protect the investment.
Dang, I bet you had fun. I would hate to be the one to have to clean it.
Lol, you did a number on that thing.
I haven’t had one of my vehicles that muddy since 1970.
You have given it a great start!
As I stated earlier, it all depends on where you live. Those ratws might be good for your area, just glad I dont live there!! Gotta have the insurance though, especially the liability stuff…
Thanks for all the input, I ended up going with Foremost $481/year with $1000 deductible. It seemed like good coverage for the big stuff.
If you can go with glass for the windshield as long as the weight is not an issue. I have a plain polycarb windshield but it must be cared for properly to reduce scratching, I worked with a plastic machining company for 15 yrs and learned how to care for polycarb to slow down the scratching. My windshield is more than 3 yrs old and not enough scatches yet to even notice when looking thru it. However glass is so much easier! No glass windshield were availiable for my machine so I just went with my experience and made my own polycarb folding unit. Being plastic, I do fold down top half when open trailering, but now no need to worry as I went to an enclosed trailer, now….no worries mate!
Same here, my plow blade has 2 loops on the push tubes to attach the winch clip to.
The rear loop allows the entire plow unit to balance front to back to make the quick attach feature simple, once attached I move the clip to the front loop for a better pull angle. My synthetic rope has a sleeve over the first 6 ft to reduce wear from constant in and out while plowing. Can be easily removed for summer mudding if wanted, but hasnt caused me any issues yet. If your going to do alot of plowing consider a strap, they are easier on the system! I am not fortunate enough to get enough snow to worry about it.
Both plows I have had (Polaris and now a Kolpin) have had loops to hook the winch cable too. On my Ranger I had a synth rope and did use a fairlead pully to avoid wear. On my current set up I have a steel cable and am just using the normal fairlead with no issue. The reality for me personally is I plow 8-10 times a winter, so the wear isn’t as much of a concern for me. If I was out daily, I would approach it different.
Did you trailer them in the open or closed postion?
I trailered 4 hours with the doors. The front ones are held in with friction, so I made sure the Velcro was done up to hold them in. The rears have straps that hold them down. They are made of a nice heavy canvas and marine type Eisen glass. I feel like the zippers could be beefier, but they seem to work.
Not sure it would want to do it all the time, but they trailered ok.
In terms of the rear panel, I got poly but hard coat. I would not get poly without having the hard coating on it. The regular just scratches instantly. I did it mostly for weight and cost.
God information, thanks!
Do you have any issues with the upper canvas doors as far as trailering? Was concerned about getting torn/ripped or do they remove easily enough where it wouldn’t be an issue? I plan on getting both front and rear glass shields. I am contemplating poly for the rear? Lighter, easier to handle. I would think that the rear isn’t as vulnerable to scratches, etc.
I have a Side By Customs front vented windshield. Love the glass and the wiper. The venting works well.
I have a 22′ pontoon on a bunk trailer and I feel like it would be pretty big/ heavy to launch. I do launch PWC’s with it all the time.
I also have the heater and upper canvas doors. The heater is great. Upper canvas doors are ok and serve the function. Easy to remove for summer riding. Check out my build thread and let me know if you have any questions on anything I did to it.
Awesome, thanks so much for the info!
Your priorities are correct !! Most machines are made well today, so get the one you can afford and are comfortable with. Definetly take a test drive, if dealer wont let you….find another dealer!
We did consider the Rmax – side restraint makes entry/exit difficult , First year model? Pricey! Accessories not as good.
No availability! Couldn’t even find one to test drive. We are near 60. Not going to be “pounding” the trails. Priority was comfort and fit!
Might be worth looking into a Rmax first. I own a Razor and a Yxz, in the quality department the Yamaha is in a different league.
X2 on having a good dealer!! Neighbor just bought his second General, really liked the first one. New one has all the fancy stuff, ouch on th price tag, hasnt had it long enough to use all the fancy stuff yet. Did learn how the rear camera worked when he stopped to pee with a female rider along…..yep….showed it off !
His only complaint is all the plastic stuff like bushings in A arms on a 20k plus machine. Yep your riding on plastic bushings at most pivot points…..at least my Kymco has all sealed roller bearings on suspension arms.
They like there Generals same as most who own them, definetly fast…..
Wiper should work on any glass. Most dealers should be able to get aftermarket stuff, letting them install is up to you and depends on your mechanical skills to DYI, if you got to go to youtube for this, I’d probably let them do it.
From what I hear OEM is the best bet for fit, or Koplin which is owned by Polaris. I would think it would pull the boat, my 900 will pull a pickup, but a lot of variables, load on boat and loading ramp are a couple that comes to mind.
I was reading a thread on ride command the other day, it ain’t cheap but seems to come with other things in the package and can’t remember everything but someone said cameras.
A lot of enjoyment into this market is based on your dealer, hopefully you got a good one.
SuperATV EZ-STEER Power Steering Kit for Polaris Sportsman Ace 325/570 (2014) [GB3S9B496] – $94.99 : decorsday.com
I just found this unit. Look like the same parts as mine
I’m new to forums and new to the SXS ownership world but insurance what I do for a living so I understand the pain and frustration. As has been suggested, separate the toys from the other stuff (home, auto, boat, life) only because it’s more likely to have an issue with SXS than your auto and it will affect your rates. I’m not in your state so I can’t directly assist but I’ve insured several friends with Progressive…they rely heavily on credit and driver history so it can out whack quickly if any history exists. Our best option however has been with Foremost Insurance; I’d say look them up online and see if there is an Agent locator tab, prices have always been the best we’ve seen. One easy tool to help manage cost is the deductible, if you aren’t turning in a claim for less than 2,500 in damage, don’t carry a $250 or $500 deductible…. Good luck and enjoy,
For sure! We loved the Pioneer but it was time for more comfort and power, took the wife out and she is loving how much better the suspension is already
Very nice man! Should be a bit easier on you guys for those spirited trail rides. That Pioneer bucked you guys around pretty good.
I think the drop in truck bed liners are the same or similar material. We used to cut old ones up and use them as ski guides/ trailer protectors for our snowmobile trailers. Part of the reason we used that materials is it held up to carbide wear bars and was very slick. The ribs in the material also sort of grabbed and held the skis too.
Ok, never saw the truck bed stuff in sheets. Could be uhwm.
The stuff I mentioned isn’t spray on it one big sheet. I think it starts out 1/4 to 3/8 thick and very tuff.
Been in your shoes a number of years back. My one accident raised my auto ins but that is when I seoerated my toys from the auto ins company. My boat is thru the house ins and my SxS has its own policy. While it may save to bundle most of the time, if you have one black mark, it might pay to seperate your policies. Do get lots of quotes as you never know which company wants new buisness. Rates all come down to how many claims a particular ins company has had in the past couple years in your state/area.
Thanks for the input. I guess living in South Carolina and having 1 at fault accident 6 months ago (1st one in 37 years) is costing me. I think we are going with a higher deductible policy so I am covered for the really big stuff. Markel and Foremost are competitive; probably going with Foremost.
You might try Markel.
I had a large claim 5 years ago and they paid off no problem.
Their rates are very reasonable but you will need to go to their site and fill in the blanks to get a quote.
I have three sxs’s insured through them full coverage.
Motorcycle Insurance | Event Insurance | Bicycle Insurance | Markel
My personal opinion is that these things are just too expensive to not have coverage on regardless of the loan status. They total out easy from roll overs and frame damage (think catching a tire on a tree, frames bend easy at a-arms). Think garages, barns, structures burning down as well. It may be one in a thousand, but when it happens, its bad. Many of us have about as much into them as a decent car. Even if I don’t rely on it for day to day transport, the financial investment is substantial. If you are in a position to absorb the amount you have into it from a loss, then I would say you are good to go….just get really good liability coverage or ensure liability is covered under an umbrella policy you may carry. If you cant absorb it, shop around for a good rate for full coverage. You will find rates vary greatly. Also, when you get the policy make sure you have enough accessory coverage to cover what you plan to have into it. Many policies come with $3k in accessory but that can be exhausted VERY quickly.
I bought my Razor 2 years ago and have it insured full coverage through State Farm for just under $400 a year with a $500 deductable. Bought my yxz a few months ago and State Farm wanted double that for the same coverage. My agent told me that State Farm is not really interested in insuring them anymore. Too many losers with no skill doing stupid stuff and then claiming insurance. So got about the same coverage from Allstate for about the same price. Paid cash for both, my rule is if it’s worth over 10k it gets full coverage.
I might also add, that many riding places do require insurance coverage and require proof. Your performance machine is gonna cost more than my utility machine but….I would not be without it…just in case….!
I am in Ohio, so not sure how our rates are comlared to your state. In Ohio we get ” motorcycle ins with an “offroad” addition.
Here I carry full coverage, 50/100k just like a car. My SxS policy if thru a different company than my auto or home. Mine is a 250 deductable for all. I do have an excellent driving record and I am 70 yrs old. In my area I can ride on back roads so ins is a must. I get my ins thru Safeco at 100 for a full year on my 2015 Kymco 450i.
I don’t do a ton of rocking, but I would think some bead locks, UHMW skids, tree kickers/ nerf bars. A lot of guys upgrade the cages. All in all I think the Pro’s are super well outfitted from the factory. If you plan any power upgrades, clutching follows that. It also follows any big jump in tire size. Personally I like to have a basic enclosure like roof, windshield and back panel (not sure what the ultimate comes with). So may ways to take it. Take a look at my build thread on my General. If you have any questions or want more info on what I’ve done, I’d be happy to share.
My build was mainly for Michigan trail riding with an occasional trip to TN/ WV, etc. Basically a good all around machine.
Awesome! Congrats on the new machine!
Officially mine. Going to Carolina Adventure World this week for a couple of days; looking forward to it!
Not the spray on stuff, uhmw comes in sheets of various thickness and is used thru out industry for a tough but slippery surface
Is that the same material that is used for bed liners for Dump truck and end dumps.
Next going to make a new front bumper. After that make a tailgate out of stainless.
Andrew, did you ever get the thing running?
Were the valve lifters ever adjusted?
How long has it been since the filter was changed? Ebay seller motorcycledoctor will have the fuel filter you need. There are two sizes to choose from. I used a KN-152 oil filter on my 800cc Dominator, but is yours the same engine config?
I know a lot of people use them because they are ULTRA tough. The material is also “slippery”, so you are less prone to getting hung up on rocks and similar. I would like to get a set eventually, but where I primarily ride its not quite as needed as down south. Ive rode both WV and TN and 100% understand why they are basically required down there.
Hello. This is my first post on this forum. I have owned a 2017 Dominator 800 for about a year, and the only trouble i have had was when the relay that controls the radiator fan failed. Easy fix. I have just completed an oil change. There is a lot of good info at this site:
Warranties-Manuals-Service – ATV Utv
PS; I used a K&N KN-152 filter. It’s a cartridge type. Also, get some push pin pliers to extract the many pins that hold the cowling down. The T shift handle unscrews.
Try replacing the fan relay first. Mine failed recently.
I have not had any experience with that material as a skid plate, but have had lots of experience with that material!! Let me say that stuff is tough and strong. Easy to machine but very messy when machining!
I would think it would be an excellent material to use, very difficult to rip or tear if at least 3/8″ thick. It is a heavy material, more than aluminum but veey slippery to glide over rocks and logs, also retains memory unlike alum or steel. Been looking into making a set for my machine.
Very nice! I’m with Ken….no snow to speak of here in SE Michigan. I’m a little bummed because it will be my first year with both a heater and full doors when plowing. I had the heater last year and it was nice, but I figured with the doors I would be in there in a t shirt plowing away :eek::)
Yah it was like the beads were tapered. I definitely didn’t notice this happening on the one other set of tires I mounted on these wheels.
Glad they owned up to it. The beads should def not squeeze out of the ring. I’ve only done one set of bead locks myself and had no issue at the bead at all. Ive heard of some tires having out of round issues, but cant recall if they were SATV or not.
Not only is it difficult to find repair people, finding trustworthy people is even more difficult!! For those reasons most of us do our own work when ever possible.
Awesome….however I am jealous as we have had very little snow to play in!!
A friend of mine has one and the X xc is a deluxe rig with smart locker and beadlocks and 29″ tires and lots of other upgrades.
The sway bars on those are really stiff and they do lots better on technical stuff without them. Just something to keep in mind if you do that type of riding.
I am totally pumped. It is more machine than I originally set out to buy. Still not over the price tag but I’m sure the 1st trip out will help relieve the shock a little.
It’s 64″ wide. A pic will be added when I get it. Below is a link to a review of the exact one I got.
UTV TEST: 2020 CAN-AM MAVERICK SPORT X xc – Dirt Wheels Magazine
Dr. Motorcycle out of St. Louis seems to have all parts for the Odes. He ships pretty quickly and you usually receive the parts within 1 or 2 days.
Thanks. I found someone on youtube with the same setup and they said they’d be with the machine and measure it for me today. I’ll edit this thread title once I get themeasurements and post that here in case anyone else is searching in the future.
There is usually a gasket on both. I know some guys who go deep will seal it up with silicone.
I’m not sure on any changes between 2019 and 2020. Did you try calling SATV? They may just not have updated their site or may be working on a way to make them work.
Hopefully someone will chime in, but i havnt seen too many members with track set ups. Either way, post back to maybe help out the next guy. I watch OstaCruiser on You Tube sometimes, he has a pretty sweet tracked out machine. Fun stuff to watch.
Awesome choice! I am not a Can Am Expert….is that a 60 or a 64″ wide machine? Congrats! I see a lot of people use hard sided tool boxes and just ratchet strap them down. All sorts of shapes and sizes to fit your needs and the machine. Nothing wrong with going cheap and simple and upgraded if the need is there.
Congratulations.
Good choice.
I think you will really enjoy it.
Made the plunge into a new 2020 Maverick sport X XC. Dealership had it on the floor for a while so I got, what consider, a pretty good deal. They’re installing a winch and windshield tomorrow and I’ll pick it up Thursday!
Beautiful scenery out there! That KRX is sharp too….I really like those machines.
It ended up being a fuse. The one for the lights under the dash. Not labeled ignition or fuel pump.
Did anyone figure this out? Mine is doing the same
Not very recent, from various rides this summer. All of these are in the Little Belt Maintains in central Montana.
January 3. This as an area of BLM land just north of Lovell Wyoming.
The below photo you can see the Big Horn Mountains out in the distance in front of the KRX and the Prior Mountains in the distance behind.
Below off in the distance are the Beartooth Mountains. In the dead center on the horizon is Heart Mountain near Cody Wyoming. Home of the WWII era Heart Mountain Japanese Relocation Center.
You can solve any/all towing issues by doing what I did, get an enclosed trailer then you wont loose anything!
Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately this sxs purchase fell through. The search is on again.
I finally gotten the almost done finished the rear window yesterday afternoon with a piece of lexon leftovers from the firewall of the 2wd pulling truck. The role gage is all wrapped with the same vinyl as I made the top out of.i have to make the window frames for the stock doors.
I put a Super ATV windshield flip up
Fits very well easy to install.
You probably already picked up your sxs but I would just take the windshield right off. There all pretty easy to take off fast. I not only do it to save it from getting damaged but it will have much less drag on the truck. It will make a difference in gas mileage especially if you’re going on a long haul.
ADJUST VALVES HAD SAME ISSUE
look for exhaust leak if nothing probley need valve adjustment not fun..
Can you tell me why SATV does not make a portal for the 2020 General? They make it for the 2019 but not 2020. What’s different on that model sxs?
Alec wire the positive to a keyed power pole instead of the constant power pole.
I added the “plug n play” fan switch to my 2013 Ranger 900. It was easy and works perfect. It is a “hot” switch that will operate the fan when the ignition switch is off. This feature had positive and negative results. The negative is, if you forget to shut it down, prepare to jump off you ride the next time you turn the key. 🙂
Any highway trip over a few miles and I always remove my windshield. I don’t want the road debris marring it and I don’t like the bow it gets in it at 65 or 70 mph. My roof is secured well (I think) and I’ve never thought about strapping it down. Reading about these roof blow-off issues I’ll check my roof tomorrow. As someone posted, it’s too easy to just run a strap from front to rear as insurance if it’s not really secured.
Regarding accessories, if it’s something I don’t want I usually value it at zero. The accessories I want are the fairly universal ones already mentioned. Roof, windshield (either foldable or easily removalable) winch, a front wheel & tire for a spare I’d pay for if I didn’t already have one. Obviously, in South Georgia and Florida we don’t see a lot of cabs and plows, so I can’t help valuing those items. I’m at the age I’d pay for EPS. (Like a lot of things, once you’ve enjoyed it, you miss it when it’s gone.) 🙂
Last tidbit. Only offer what it’s worth to you. What someone else paid or added to a machine doesn’t affect the value to you. I’m aware that what many might consider a low-ball offer can annoy some people, so I always say “I’m not arguing value, I’m just limited by my budget.” Plus, you never know someone’s situation. They may have a deal to buy something pending and feel the MUST sell this unit today.
Good luck and enjoy your ride!
My Yamaha dealer told me I could go up to 28″ tires without voiding my warrany. I bought a 4 year extended warranty, so I will stay with 28″.
The Odes windshiled is made out of standard plexiglass, that easily scratches. The Lexan windshields are better, but you need to take care of them. Yes, safety glass is better, but there are issues there, as well. Most do not fold down. If it is up all the time, you are continually having to clean it.
My Yamaha dealer told me to never tow the Viking with the windshield up. It folds down so no problem. Never had an issue with the top.
I think all are great machines. While the Honda trans is mechanical and could be costly to repair, I have heard of no widespread issues with it other than some very early model growing pains. As with most Honda stuff, its not the highest performance, but seems to be very reliable. I find Kaw stuff to be very heavy built compared to the competition in general.
I have personally had a Ranger and loved it!
I don’t think I have been much help up to this point.
My best advice is go sit in and drive all machines that make it to your top 3. That may quickly rule out one or more or make one rise to the top. Thinks like ergonomics, noise, power, ride quality can quickly rule out one machine or another. You are in a good time to be shopping (other than the white hot market demand) as all of the manufacturers have some great offerings out there.
Awesome. I just pinned this to the top of Odes Nation. Thanks for posting.
Would sure like to know any info you have on the turbo..youve got the only one I ever seen ? Is it a kit of some type ?
Thanks Mark
Rhoda…..Thought I might get back after a long pause working on cabin!
Have been riding trails around continental devide there are many to choose from that go on for miles and miles very steep and of course millions of large rocks.Glad I decided on lift kit! ..With the exception of a front shock seaping oil. The mule has been flawless and very reliable think it was a great choice just wish it had a tad more power .I saw that there is a new member with a 2017 gasoline turbo unit but not any info whatsoever on the. Ride itself. Sure would like to know where to get turbo kit for one of these ? Do you still have yours? How has it held up ?
Mark
More and more campgrounds have an access route to the closest trail system. As the popularity grows, so does acess to the trail system from campgrounds, and many towns are allowing acess to trails by riding on streets or right aways.
I have a small motorhome and an enclosed trailer to haul my SxS, works great! Can tow to trail head if needed and have a place to come back to for lunch or a shower! Most places I have been to have trail acess from the campground. I do most of my riding in Ohio and Michigan.
This is a stupid market right now, people asking what the got in them and getting it. In the real world, accessories are valued at 50%, even then not everything has value, cab’s are good, windshields and tops also, bout anything that encloses, after that maybe a winch or a plow. Stay away from lifts and bigger tires from aftermarket, some do have them factory, unless your into mudding. I wouldn’t worry to much about 50in, most places are realizing the need to go wider trails or die.
How do you travel with you’re machine? We have a travel trailer and have looked at the toy haulers but it seems to me that they are only useful if you are camping in a location that you can ride your sxs from the campsite otherwise you need a trailer to get to the trail.
We rented a Yamaha a couple of years ago and it was a blast. It was more utility in nature. We visited our son in Colorado this summer and he has a Cam Am Mav 4-seater and it was a blast. We had 3 wheelers years ago and have missed them ever since we got rid of them in the early 90s. It’s really a matter of are we going to be able to use it enough to make it worth having it. I think my wife and I have concluded it’s worth trying and have decided a 50″ machine will give us the best chance of using it wherever we go with it.
Honda would be my last choice with the mechanical tranny….very expensive to repair if/when a problem occurs. Belts are so much cheaper! The 500 Pioneer is pretty slow when compared to the others
They make some for autos/trucks, not sure how well they would work on a SxS…
Look at Walley world, Target, etc in the auto dept.
Update to oil leak problem:
I talked to Brent at PBO Powersports in Phoenix about my rear differential problem. He asked me how much oil I put in it. I told him that after I drained the oil I replaced it with new oil and filled it until it ran out of the threaded hole. It took a quart for this to happen. He said that was too much oil, and they don’t come with that much in them. He is trying to find out how much should be installed. My owners manual doesn’t give any fluid amount information at all. It doesn’t even have the right engine in it. If anybody knows the right amount, or has a book that says, please let me know.
I’m feeling a little better about my leak as it may just be pumping out the excess.
So, what did you decide to buy? I’m in a similar position right now.
Nothing specific on that exact model, but Keystones are typically middle of the road. I would be looking for roof maintenance like already noted. Water is what kills these things. Also, being a 2016, look at the tires. If not done already, it is due very soon. There is a good chance the stock tires are junk and right on the edge of the weight capacity of the unit. I recommend people go up a load rating if they are close. I say this, because a good set of tires on a large toy hauler can be spendy (which is why so many end up with junky tires).
Try this place. I didn’t see any 900 beds, but they do have a few for other machines for about $300 USD. May be worth a call in case its not listed. I would think the cost of shipping to Spain would make it cost prohibitive though just based on the size and the fact it would likely go freight. May be worth a call though, never know.
Home page – Power Sports Nation: The Cheapest Used ATV and Side by Side Parts
WOW! Beautiful!
Also beautiful ……but gators? Nope
Its a balmy 15* here in Michigan this morning. Not any riding to report. I did get the plow on a few weeks ago. Went from trail mode to plow mode.
Ashland resort was very nice. Really enjoyed it there.
Adding to this thread. Wife is picking up a 2021 CFMoto ZForce 500 Trail this week.
Wife is picking up a new CFMoto Zforce 500 this week and we are planning a trip to Ashland Resort in Feb 2021 time frame. Of course, I’ll be on my RZR.
Central florida, freezing 65°, Bull Creek WMA (little creek) state land, passable at 3 ft.deep after receding 3.5 ft. Since August/September rains.
[emoji246] Alligators, got to share the road, be nice, sit stay good boy, coming through, thanks for not eating me, resume.
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Super nice machine! I love the Pro models. At least you got the flat tire out of the way early 😉
Wow! Super nice machine! Congrats.
Here are some additional photos.
FB while reading one of the RZR800 forums.
Also, from the inside, look at the interior walls carefully with a light. If you see “pimple” like bumps on the interior walls this is mold under the interior paper and luan. Again don’t walk away, run.
I’ve been RVing for over 10 years. The first thing to look out for is water penetration from the roof and windows. Physically get up on the roof and and look at the roof membrane for tears, then look at all the caulking for dryness. Water will penetrate here and will do extensive damage. Also look at the sidewalls for any bubbling, this is delamination. If in doubt walk away. YouTube “sidewall delamination”.
This is very interesting to me as I just mounted a set of 35 x 10 x 15 XT’s soft compound. Before mounting, these tires are visibly very misshaped, rolling them along they wobbled badly. I thought maybe it is because they were at the bottom of a stack all askew and they would straighten up when mounted and aired up. While mounting I could see the beads were out of round a good half inch at least. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the beads round just to get the lock ring in place. Took it for a ride around the neighborhood and the machine was very bouncy and the steering wheel is pumping back and fourth aggressively. I swapped tire positions to see if maybe it was just one of the front tires, but no matter what position I moved them to nothing changed. Apparently the 34’s aren’t the only size with this issue. I’ll contact SATV tomorrow, hopefully they will be as responsive to me as they were for you.
Thanks to you guys for responding to my oil leak problem. I took my machine out for an (easy on the machine) test drive and just returned to find oil still leaking out the side of the accordion tube.
Dale, you mentioned the tube should be as straight as possible. I have it perfectly vertical.
Jason, you mentioned installing the accordion tube not fully compressed or expanded. I am sure I installed it in its expanded position as that’s how it came out of the package.
One more question: Is it supposed to have a small slit in it to relieve pressure?
It’s designed to expand and contract with heat, during the install make sure it’s not fully compressed or fully contracted. It could be a sign of your bearings getting too hot.
We have a Mahinrah 1000 and having issues shifting as well. It act like there is not enough room to put it in gear. We will get a explanation mark as an error has occured. It almost appears to not be in the proper postion for drive or reverse. Dealership has been terrible to work with. They have no idea what the issue is. It has a three year warranty. Where do we go from here?
Yep…all depends on how well the roof is attached ! Mine has 4 places where bolted to roll cage
I would take some Ratchet Straps, Better to be safe then Sorry I lost my Top on my Mule on the interstate. so I Strap mine. I only takes a few Minute
The tube needs to be as straight as possible so there isn’t any oil can’t stay in it always should be clear of any oil.
If you live where they use them in the mud or for rock crawling I wouldn’t buy a used one.
Trailer mine almost every weekend with no problems. Have owned severaly SxS’s with windshields, towed them all with windshields on.
Yes, this is the only vent. The accordion tube was mounted hanging in a down position. I have since remounted it in a vertical position as high as possible. I am going to replace the lube I lost, and give it another try. I’m thinking that with the tube mounted low, when it did start to leak, it may have began a siphon effect?? I don’t know. I’ll let you know what happens after the test drive Saturday after Christmas.
Thanks for responding.
My Kymco is fairly quiet qhen comoared to most other SxS machines I have conpared it to. Then again mine is only a 450 qhere most machines today are 700 plus cc. My neighbor just bought two 1000 cc SxS machines and yes, they are much louder than my 450!! Wife and I can carry a conversation without issue below 20/25 mph, but at higher speeds engine noise increases and many of these performance machines run at higher rpm which equates to a louder engine….
My first thought is overfill, but that clearly isnt the issue. So, it vented properly as far as you can tell? Is this the only vent?
Is there some sort of adjustment in the valve train? I wish I had a better answer, but Ive never personally been into to one.
Ive had mixed here. I had the front polaris quick attach clamps come loose on the roof once. Caught it just in time. Whenever I trailered open from that point on, I strapped it down. If its a nice solid hardware mount, I wouldnt worry about it.
I had the same with the wind shields. I left my fold down up once and it bowed WAY in at 70+ MPH. From that point forward I just folded it down.
Some of them are louder than others. I find that a lot of the noise comes from the drive train myself. My 500 had the motor under the seat along w/ the clutch air intake. If you covered that intake for a minute, it was shocking how much noise came thru there. I feel like the Polaris 1000 motor is reasonably quiet for what it is.
I think used is always an option. I try to buy as much used as I can. BUT….with SXS’s, unless you have solid confidence its been cared for and not beat to death, I tend to lean new. I was looking used when I first got one in 2013, but after seeing endless videos of what people do to them, I went new. Just my .02 on the topic.
Why not consider renting a SXS when you ge to to an area you want to ride just to find out if it is something you want?
Anything prior to I think 2014 has the engine under the seat, believe it was when the went to the 900 moved it to under the box, so stay away from the 700/800 and I would add the 570 as well, bout the only complaint I see on them is noise. I’m on 3 different forums and from what others have said, Polaris has the quietest SXS on the market.
Check the air intake neck in the center between the 2 front seats that attaches to the throttle body. Min had a leak, replaced and runs like a champ. Likely to be air leak or fuel delivery issue. Doctor motorcycle out of St. Louis has any part you would need. Also Ebay
My machine has a plastic roof and I have had no issues trailering it, my plastic windshield folds down so road trash has not been an issues. If your windshield does not fold down then I would consider a cover of some form for the windshield so it doesnt get scratched from road debris. Your roof would never know it had a stone chip, but windshield will definetly show up. I have saw people tape cardboard over there plastic windshield for trailering.
I think I used the term sport incorrectly… I am considering something like a RZR XP 1000 or Can Am Maverick sport or X3. I said sport to mean not a work machine. We can’t drive them on the roads here.
But since you mentioned it the General is an interesting option I hadn’t considered.
I think it has a 29 grand reserve.
You got a lot to think about. A sport SXS is a limited market, Polaris general is about the only one I know of. Do you live in an area that allows them on the roads? Regardless of brand having a dealer you trust is #1 but not always possible. Right now the market is red hot, not good for buying or even trying to find new, on the bright side if you do buy new and don’t like it, it should be an easy sell.
What do you want to know?
It’s up to 20000
I too bought a 2019 Odes Ravager 1000 Zeus. I haven’t had a problem similar to yours; but I have oil leak problems. I hope we both get out units fixed so that we have the confidence needed to ride in the places we like to go.
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For all those that have posted or viewed this post I was hacked on my Facebook account and was unable to view or respond. If you see Lois Fernandes on the posting disregard. I have the same post under bubba Smith and for all that message me please reconnect with me .Thanks and safe riding
Do the Fox tune first. Any spacer lift is going to give a bit rougher ride.
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My 2015 Odes 4 door would die in certain positions and I found the intake neck was torn. I ordered a new one from Doctor Motorcycle and it fixed the problem immediately. Doctor Motorcycle seems to stock all the parts for these machines and the parts guy is pretty helpful
Thanks Deward. D-Mode on the 850 was a dumb question, one of those that got lost in translation between the brain and the fingers on the keyboard. I was originally wondering if anyone had adapted it to an 850 or if there was some aftermarket mod available. I suppose not.
I apologize in advance if it’s better to start a new thread or post on a similar thread so posting on similar.
My 2013 Odes Dominator 800 4WD switch has not worked for a while. I removed the switch and tested and believe it isn’t the cause. I’m not all that familiar with working on these but am confident it’s an electronic issue.
Has anyone else had issues with this? Wondering if actuator or something. I read a similar problem with someone with anATV had a plug come undone… does the UTV have a similar box? Any help greatly appreciated, it’s getting sloppy out there and 4wd would help
If you’re on Facebook there are several odes groups that you can get a lot of information about the machine you have.
I’m about your size, 6’3-6’4 and a little fatter, and have bad knees. i was a little concerned at first but since then I’ve put in several 70+ mile days and don’t have any problems.
I’m pretty sure that if the 2021 850 had d-modes you’d have heard about it by now
I had a heating problem and finally replace ECU and things are great. It would die, over heat, not start, I replaced anything and everything that would cause over heating. Finally bought a new ECU unit. When I replaced it, I unplugged it only to have the ECU connector break off the harness connector and visa versa.SO also had to replace the wiring harness. Now things are good at all temperatures. The harness was very easy to replace by the way.
We ride in some serious dust at times here in Michigan. I have my cover off at least twice a year. Its shocking the amount of dust that accumulates in there.
Just get the ones (pulse connector) with the wires already started into the connector, so no special crimper is needed. Then, cut the rings off the harness, strip it back and connect it to the wires on the pulse connector. A quality butt connector with some heat shrink should serve fine.
So I need to buy a Polaris pulse connector and wire those ring terminals into that?
Where’d you get that crimper and wire kit?
I will start doing that!
My advice is to remove the clutch cover and give it a good clean/ blow out 2-3 times a season if you ride in dusty conditions. Remember, a big part is environmental dust, but there is also belt dust in there too. Its just good maintenance to pull that cover every so often and give everything a good clean and look over.
Don’t return it, just cut those ring terminals off of there and splice into the pulse connector. It should work fine.
Same here. Just would not come on one day. What is the quickest way to remove it to check the harness?
Thanks so much for that post, apparently, you and I have the exact General. Even that colour. So I’ll be asking you a lot of questions, LOL
So I need to take this harness back and get one specific to the General. I posted this picture, its the harness the Polaris dealer sold me. They said its for a RZR but also said, it will work for the General. On the directions that came with this harness, the diagram shows a 3 stud wiring bar that the 3 lugged wires go to. But as you know and as I found out, that isn’t under the hood of the general.
They talk about ‘REMOVE ALL DUST AND DEBRIS FROM CLUTCH HOUSING OR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR’! Well that sort of warning triggers my paranoia and I start trying to prevent that.
Since everything is frozen here right now, I couldn’t really use a pressure washer to wash off the external area before changing the belt. So I hand washed it with tough paper towels. When I took the cover off, it wasn’t all that dusty. Until I hit the primary with compressed air and had to get out of there gasping for air. I returned with a respirator mask and continued with the compressed air till nothing more came out.
Anyway, that warning on the directions to change the belt caused me to ask the question, ‘Is there a filter’?
It seems like if they are warning to remove all dust and debris from that area, then what happens if I get out there on a very hot dry dusty day and it gets a lot of dust in there?
LOL, I just get paranoid. I’m not rich so I gotta be careful with my SXS. I want it to last.
Best to call the Arizona Game and Fish as I think they might have made a change in the weight of them and it also depends on if you have it registered as street legal in your home state. There’s some confusion as to if it’s under 1800 lbs or 2500 lbs now. But here’s a quick link to get you started
AZGFD
Yeah, late to the party on this one, but that is 100% not the right place to pick up power from. Glad you found and corrected it!
I am replying to bump this up, but I want to say its in the range of 40, maybe 42″. Assuming you mean at the top of the windshield/ cage area….
Yes, you probably have a Polaris Pulse bar. It has all 3 in there. Here is a video I did on it:
Polaris Pulse Bar Overview – YouTube
They sell connectors all over the place to plug right into this bar. I did weather pack style connectors direct into the plug. It was a PITA. I would just get one that is pre-wired with the pigtails coming off of it and do a nice/ proper/ sealed connection that way. Here is a link, but these are sold all over the place on Amazon and E-bay. If I were to do it all over, I would do this. It is a slightly less clean way, but would have saved me a ton of frustration.
Amazon.com: 12Awg Pulse Power Plug Connector Pigtail Compatible with 2018 2019 2020 2021 Polaris Ranger XP 1000 & RZR RS1 & General – 3pcs Bus Bar Pigtail Connectors: Automotive
Just remember, the keyed 12v wire is to turn a relay on only. The same 10a fuse covers all 6 of these in the pulse bar. What Im getting at is don’t try to wire direct to this for keyed power. Just use it to trip the relay. A relay is the proper way to wire in lights.
Yeah…tires need to be the same size for the Hilliard overrun differential to operate properly. It does operate with a slightly different gear ratio which is what makes the rears “overrun” the fronts until they slip. In theory you could overcome some slip with very exact tire diameters. The issue is, no tire is that exact. I would run the same make/ model/ size tire on all 4 corners or risk some possibly major issues.
Nope. Just the frog skin to keep the water out on the intake over the left rear wheel. I suppose it has some minor filtering effect, but not much. The amount of dust that comes out of my clutch area after a dusty ride is crazy. I did add an outer wears sock to the under hood intake, but I think all that did was restrict flow just enough to draw more air from the side intake which created a major dirt and dust issue. I have since taken it off. The clutches flow air, but not really pump it, so I think any sort of filter would only restrict air flow. Just my thoughts.
Good point, but realize that there is more than reliability when a brand is selected for rentals. Polaris and CanAm have aggressive incentive plans the rental agreements. I’ve seem rental companies drop them though, after too many problems…
I have a 2020 YXZ 1000R SS SE, but the new Yamaha 4Max would be my top pick for a more mellow, but still super capable, reliable 64″ machine. I might uncork it with a HMF tune & Q series muffler, or just keep the stock exhaust…seems to sound good on video. My Wife and I use our SxS for solo backcountry exploring, so reliability is paramount. You could go CanAm or Polaris, just plan to spend major $ (can easily reach $10K)on aftermarket parts so it doesn’t break, and carry spare belts. The 4Max seems built HD outta the box. BTW, Yamaha provides a 10 year warranty on their double clutched belt. The KRX went with a similar system, IIRC, but nobody else in the industry can touch Yamaha belt reliability. Nobody.
thought… for the auto 4×4 to operate correctly when the rear tires spin faster than the front the drive engages, a smaller front tire would prevent the correct operation by delaying the auto engage… thinking further when in 4×4 you have two tire sizes in the same gear set, this would certainly produce excessive tire wear and or wear on the gears depending on your terrain. Curious why you would want more “slip” in the front diff?
One more question, when taking off the calipre, I can see where it says in videos on Youtube, “Polaris recommends this bolt be changed each time”.
Anyone know why that is?
Is there a filter for the air going into the clutch/belt area?
The belt draws air from above the left rear tire as well as under the hood area. Under the hood there are 2 intakes, one is for the belt. Belts usually last quite a while assuming you use low range when needed and don’t slip it. I only use OEM belts, just something I have done since my snowmobile days. That old belt you took off will be a great spare.
I think on the General it is right above the rear tire.
In the video, the guy mentions grease for some of the bolts.
What sort of grease?
Also he says to fully seat the 5mm Allen adjustment screw. What does that mean? Until it doesn’t turn anymore?
Thanks for any answers I can get,
M
Sounds like you modified parts for other side by sides, to fit your Odes. Sounds familiar. There very few aftermarket parts for Odes. It is a good thing you can work on it yourself, because there are few mechanics that will touch them. I predict Odes is going to go the way of Chrysler outboard motors – out of business.
Yeah, I am 99% sure mine are 7″ wide all the way around. This ends up being about 1 inch more wheel width in the front and 1 inch less in the back. At least for my application.
Of course, after I bought the machine is when I noticed the oil leak. The guys in the shop that worked on it for me told me that it had a sealant of some kind on it, apparently from the factory. That surprised me. It seems like if the parts meshed properly there wouldn’t be a need for a sealant.
Thank you for your reply. I’ll probably get into myself the next time. I will make sure all surfaces are clean
OK that’s what I’ll go with for Spring/Summer and Fall. For winter, I’ll use the original rims with a tire that is good for snow. Any recommendations for type of tire that is very good in snow? I plow snow and I also live at the top of a very icy hill when its Winter.
Makes sure that all the surfaces are cleaned. Sometimes they put a sealant on the two mating surfaces and if you don’t get all of it off it could cause a small leak
Hi Pede, Thanks for the reply. Since my post I have been going through some wiring that were not part of the whole wiring harness replacement. I did find some hot spots on the EFI wires. Played with them a bit and gained a quick 1000 rpms. “Replacements on the way” A far as the TPS settings, Yes I have but will recheck after replacement of EFIs/wires. I have been chasing this problem for way to long. Hope this works.
Have a good Thanksgiving & stay safe.
Done. All straightened up and wired to a switch.
Most go with a 7″ wide wheel.
So what size tires/rims do you have on the front? I was talking to the Polaris guys and they said I can only go with about a 7 inch wide rim on front or it will rub.
Curious if you’ve seen this.
Did anyone every find a solution for this? We have a Mule Pro FXT with a soft enclosure, but there is a gap above the windshield between that and the roof.
Picking up a hot feed from there? I’d probably remove it and put to a switch on the dash.
Well after much searching and reading opinions I am looking at the “SUNF AO33″ALL Terrain tires,, all reviews have been quite good, a knockoff of the bighorn tires but with deeper lugs, also have good characteristics for riding on pavement. Tread life has been better than many competitors…so the reviews have said….
Before I make the final decision, anyone here have any experience with these??
Thanks in advance……
Couple of things; Do you have proper RPM’s in neutral? did you go through the procedure to reset the TPS?
Don’t know about the magnito but all your electrical connections need di-electric grease to help keep them dry.
Can’t argue with that 🙂
Sure it’s a 19? last year of the 900 was 2018
I have found wide machines are limired to fewer trails, you mentioned Ohio…..most trails in Ohio are restricted to 50″ or less machine width. Even other states have limited trails to ride when you are going to a 72″ wide or wider machine. As an Ohio resident and having rode in surronding states, I would not go over 60″ in width until states get there trail systems wider and that seems to be moving at a veey slow pace. Unless you ride at high speeds and kinda crazy the extra width will not be noticible. My machine is only 56″ wide and I have never had an issue with being to narrow, but have had issues with it being to wide!!
I personally like Can Am products but havent had the xr3x I have been contemplating. like the 72″ wide for comfort and stability . Any cons?
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Your so helpful
Look at a Honda Pioneer 1000, 2 seater, been out for many years vs the new Talon. I have a Pioneer 500 for property chores and riding, but it needs better suspension for comfort. But it is very dependable, unlike my Polaris 570 ACE. My SxS choices are limited due to local 50 inch trail restrictions. Check out owner you tube videos and multiple dedicated brand SxS forums (no offense to this one). If looking at Hondas try HondaSxS.com for good info.
What did you rent? and did you like it? You got over the biggest hurdle, finding a good dealer or at least a trusted one. Comfort and room there is only one choice, gadgets are getting better but I agree on more stuff to screw up, when it comes to addons again only one choice. Research shows Polaris to have more issues(they all have them BTW) but it’s mainly numbers, number of units on the market and HP, Polaris has an abundance of both. I could go on and on but bottom line, get one your comfortable in, keep the driveline stock do the maintenance and regardless of what brand you’ll get along fine.
I’ll offer a different opinion. I’m all in for Polaris Rangers. For the record, I’ll be 74 next month, 6′ and 280 lbs. Use it, along with my adult son, for work, play and hunting. We ride the trails in the Ocala National Forest in Florida, roam the woods near the Okeefeenoke Swamp in Georgia and work on our land in Georgia.
By simply following the prescribed maintenance schedule, (or have your trusted mechanic do so,) we don’t have issues with Polaris. Yes, I carry an extra belt but I’ve never had to use it. I simply change the belt every year at maintenance time, keeping the old one as my spare, assuming it looks OK. I use Polaris brand products like drive fluids and oil.
It’s a comfortable ride to me, plenty of room for two and coolers, etc.
Based on the folks I’ve spoken to with Polaris complaints, they beat the stew out of a machine, defer maintenance and ignore issues, then get annoyed when the machine turns out not to be eternally bullet-proof.
Just my observation. I’m happy with Polaris.
Enjoy the ride, Newby!
Florida Al
Ditto on scratch the Polaris off the list. Is you want a sport 2 seater, look at the Yamaha Wolverine. If a utility model more fits your needs, the Yamaha Viking, is it. I am totally sold on Yamaha.
Not only is the Odes of poor quality, there are very few dealers, and the ones out there get no factory support. When I was having all my trouble, Mike Smith (Odes owner), said he was sending a factory mechanic with a fully stocked truck, to the dealership to repair my Odes. Some jake-leg guy in dirty cloths and a beat up car showed up with a card board box of parts and a zipper bag of tools. Seriously? When that jerk finished with it, it ran worse than when he started.
Yep. Both are junk.
Well if reliability is the top of your list Polaris is out. I’d look at the Krx, new Wolverine or Yxz. The Krx and the 19+Yxz were the top two on my list when I bought a new one a couple of months ago. I didn’t want to deal with belts and love being able to shift so I went Yami. The fact that the Yxz has only had one recall since it was first built in 2016 speaks a lot of the quality it has.
I have a Kymco 450i, that I plow snow with, 4wd is the key to plowing along with some aggressive tires. As Carl mentioned all plowing should be done in low range !!
My machine has over 3000 miles with the original belt, if used properly a belt should not be an issue. Keep in mind a new belt is far less costly than rebuilding a mechanical transmission !
Honda Pioneer 500. Best bang for the buck. Thinking the MSRP on original model just dropped to $8500 due to new 2021 model with dump bed. 5 speed gear drive. Added aftermarket power steering to mine.
Same issue anyone figure this out
Thats a big boy
Oh the trailer looks nice also
Needs to be made street legal in AZ, turn signals, horn, rear view mirror, seat belts. Plus do a search for the info you want.
I will definitely check the battery, I’m like you. (It started it, so it must be good) Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.
I hate to even post something this basic….BUT. I had a 2013 Ranger 500 EFI. OEM battery would start it, albeit a little slow. It would not idle, often stall, poor throttle response. WTF is wrong with this thing?! Cant be the battery….it starts it, right? Nope. It was the battery. I installed a new AGM and all the issues went away. My old logic of if the battery will start it, its good went out the window that day (for SXS’s at least). It seems they are super sensitive to a good battery to run right. At least my little 500 Ranger was. I know its not that silver bullet, but if you got an older battery its worth a shot to not be chasing your tail.
Also….any time there is a possible electrical issue, grounds are a good place to start along w/ pulling, cleaning and checking all harness connections, but it sounds like you have already done this.
I put used motor oil on my down here in Tucson about 6 months ago. I see signs of cracking on the new pressure treated wood.
Those Kubota diesels utv’s are heavy and heavy duty. They are hydrostatic so you get instant torque. But if you’re looking for something to also play with then that would definitely not be it. You almost never have to use the brakes, being hydrostatic it stops really quick when you just let off the throttle.
I used Bronco brand shocks for the front on a 2007 Polaris 700xp. They did not work good for me, rode rough, suspension travel seemed limited less than factory and ended up returning them.
Make sure you don’t thread shiftier handle down too far. Won’t lock into gear
Thanks!
Did the springs, weights and helix follow the old clutches to the new ones? Sounds like either one of them is sticking or there is a calibration issue.
Go on eBay and type in the search bar UTV Gunrack. There are several racks that mount on the bars overhead. I think mine is Kolpin.
With the radiator cap removed, see if you have flow from the top hose as it heats up, should happen as the thermo stat opens, about 180 degrees. You should have liquid coming out if the bleeder at this temp, if not you thermostat is bad. If you do not see a flow in the top of the radiator, or the radiator does not get hot , then your water pump impeller is bad
Did not want to bleed mine so changed thermostat and heat sensor unit and have not had an issue since. Tom
I appreciate your insight(s). Not being familiar with the toy market, I took note of Seastacker’s idea that there may soon be an uptick in the used market. I don’t have to have a UTV so badly that I’m willing to pay anything to get one, I’d rather hold off and see what transpires. Until then, I guess I can keep riding around on the tractor. It doesn’t do too well on the trails, but it always starts…..
Carl, I agree with your thinkin but I not sure the production numbers are there, the only way this happens if Polaris gets into over production in the coming months, they did that back in the early 80’s and almost broke the company. That was Textron back then, will see if they learned a lesson. I have to laugh at the FB group I’m on, they are buying anything they can find and now you have people wondering how big of tire and lift they can put on a 500…..:rolleyes:
I anticipate over the next 18-24 months we are going to have a glut of lightly used toys coming onto the market as people get back to normal. I expect this to start with campers and work on down thru the rest. People may have had fun and realized they like the new hobby, but when time doesn’t allow use, the monthly payment and insurance bill are a good enough reason for many to sell. We will see. It will be an interesting market to watch.
mine was a ECU . But it is an older model. but once it was changed, everything works great now for 2 years
4 on 156
Sure would like to know where all these down and out broke people that cant afford to buy food or pay rent are living that the news talks about day in and day out. Not only are offroad vehicles selling but all outdoor toys like boats and RV’s are also selling like hotcakes. Went into the shop that I retired from and found everyone to be doing well considering the virus issues. All we hear is doom and gloom from the news every night but certainly have not experienced any of that in the real world!
Any idea what the bolt pattern is for the wheels for these Generals?
With only 100 miles, its hard to think that something is broken, but you never know. Like pede said, they are a bear to get all the air out of the system. That sure sounds like what it is to me, but its hard to say without being there. I have always wondered if one of those vacuum bleeders they use on cars would help get the air out of these things.
I will search back when I get a minute to see if there were some posts about setting this. I am pretty sure that there may have been.
Man, that is awesome! I love it.
Sounds like your making all the right moves, I know bleeding the air can be a bitch. I’ve seen on other sites some problems with the water pump, it’s got a plastic impeller and believe someone sells a better replacement, good luck. Might pull the radiator while your doing the stat and give it a good clean.
We have a camping deal for campers with all your food and drinks and Live band showers/bathrooms and guide to show you the mountains behind the camping area for one price for you and a guest for the weekend and bring your fishing pole for the pond you see in picture. You can contact Curtis @ (423) 627-7906 .we have enough room for 80 campers .your SXS trailers can all be put in field .make your reservation with us and Let’s have some fun .
Mine came with the Fox QS3’s which are adjustable to 3 positions. The spring rates were still very stiff. They also converted them over to a true dual rate set up with a cross over. I get a super soft, plush ride now. When I pass that spring, it crosses over into the stiffer one to get the good handling and performance. I would start with 12PSI and see where that takes you. Be sure you have a good low pressure tire gauge too. Its hard to set lower pressures like that with a normal range gauge.
I will try those pressures. Did yours come with the ride command shocks. They’re adjustable. I’ve left mine on medium.
I cant answer that….had the wheels and tires on the machine before it had 5 miles on it. I also had the shocks done by Shock Therepy which was a huge improvement to the ride quality. I had driven and ridden in several Generals prior to getting mine and felt the suspension was a bit stiff. What sort of air pressure are you running now? I have never used max inflation on the sticker/ manual. I tend to run down in the 12psi range which seems to be a good combo of ride, handling and stability.
Did your back take a beating on pavement when using the stock tire setup? I notice in your profile pic, the General there with the white paint scheme, that’s the one I have too. A 2019.
I’m considering having two sets of tires, one for winter and then the other for the rest of the year.
I asked about your back because my wife and I take our General into town a lot. And that includes about 30 minutes of driving on pavement each time.
So far its only been on the stock tires.
Spring/Summer/Fall driving will be the same but most of it will be on dirt road. Its very very rural so I can go as fast as I want. Its bumpy so I’d like a tire with a softer ride if possible.
Went with Polaris brand rock sliders, but they do hang out past the tires…lost trailer space
As ken said, its a sellers market right now. You are lucky if you get MSRP as of today. White hot market for all toys.
Thanks guys!
Yes. Mine are the same size on all 4 corners. I think the fronts are a little wider and backs are a little narrower than the stocks. I think this is a better look, makes it easier to carry a spare and even rotate the tires if needed. We ride some pavement at times and my backs seem to take a beating.
A lot of people run same size tire on all 4 corners.Me included.That way you can rotate tires. Planet SxS (Ryan Snyder) is a good source.He’ll price match. I’ve recently went with AMS M1 Evils and after about 600 miles I like them.
My tires are different size front to back. I’d like to get a set of wheels/tires that are the same size all the way around. I’m fine with stock height but is it OK to put the same width tire on front as is back? That means a wider tire/wheel on front than what came stock.
Vivid is a sponsor. I have not seen much from them lately though.
I had a 2013 Ranger 500. Not sure what is different and what is not. I am almost positive you can run stock axles with a 2″lift with no issues. I am not sure on the tire size max with the lift, but I was able to run +1 inch on mine with no lift at all. That was with wheels as well. In terms of other mods, what is your planned use? Looks like you already have a roof and front shield. Top of my list are typically tires (to match my planned use) and a winch, cab components (which you already have a start on).
I need to buy tires for my General.
Where are people finding the best prices for them? I need to probably buy them already mounted and balanced. The local tire shop around here said they don’t do UTV tires.
Also, my engine will not start. I have to start w a screw driver and can not figure it out. Some fuse somewhere but I’ve looked everywhere
I have an odes dominator, 2018 w only about 15 hours on it. The compression appears to be shot. High gear is a zilch. Ideas” I can not find someone who works on them. Kansas City area
Thank you
billkenney9
Ok. Looking to pick it up for 200 and do some work on reviving it. It a 2 smoker so it should have some gumption. Just not sure if it’s worth the headache or not. I’ll check it out again after it’s cleaned up.
Looks like a hardware store knock off Rhino of some sort. She looks a bit rough. I would be cautious unless you can ID what it actually is and know parts are available.
That is awesome. Perfect. We have a toy hauler and if I didn’t have kids that come along, I would do up something like that.
76″ wide.
I will try to get some tomorrow. I just now noticed this thread had updated.
No problem. It was just me messing with and learning how to video edit, lol. I did air the front tires up to the max which did help a little with steering effort, but if you have an option for power steering, its one of those options that you don’t “need”, but once you have it you wont live without.
Thanks so much for the info – super helpful. Wouldn’t have thought about the power steering with the weight of the plow.
Great video….you move a fair amount of snow. And great tune to go with the video at the end!
Here you go. It was a Polaris poly plow. It worked well on that little Ranger. I never felt any lack of power at all. That 500 has plenty of grunt. The video is about 6″ of average snow. I went around and did a few of the neighbors as well as our drive. You will make plenty of friends having a little plow set up like this.
I plow now with my General 4 which also works very well, but I miss the maneuverability of the Ranger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjQgqjCgl3s
I plowed the crap out of the snow with my Ranger 500. I plowed in low gear and never had an issue at all. I found the short wheel base was great for maneuvering. I wish I had had power steering with the added weight of the plow up front though. I did add a couple sand bags to the bed for a bit of extra traction.
I had a you tube video of the Ranger plowing. Let me see if I can find it.
I like that! Any pics of the inside you will share?
Mine is a little different. Lol.
I converted a 32′ 4 horse slant trailer.
Tough, light weight, pulls easy, garage is 13′ on the short side and 17′ long side.
It is insulated and has a finished cabin with dinette and heat/air.
I don’t worry about replacing rubber roofs or cracked frames.
Not for everyone but it works for me.
I lived in Arizona blazing heat for 5 yrs and now moved to Idaho. Going to try living in snowy winters vs hell hot summers lol.
Anyway I bought a Rockland 17″ dual axle flat bed trailer and rolled 1 gallon of Cabot wood sealant from Lowes on the top and bottom of the wooden floor planks. Had no shrink or crack issues thus far. I’m going to roll another gallon on now that the wood floor will be exposed to snow.
We couldn’t pass up this 33′ Class A RV. Then purchased a 17′ dual axle flat bed trailer with electric brakes controlled by Curt wireless ap on my phone Echo: A Wireless Brake Controller for Your Smartphone
I put Gorilla lift kit on the trailer to lift the back gate. Absolutely necessary now that im an older guy lol
https://www.gorilla-lift.com/
Hi Desert Moose, I just moved from Arizona to Idaho. Did alot of riding in desert washes/trails and forest trails above the rim. Have a 2020 Bennch/Odes. UTV | Bennche X4 1000 Side By Side UTV | Utility Vehicles
Go see Brent independent owner of PBO POWERSPORTS in Phoenix
3850 E. Roeser Rd
Phoenix , AZ 85040
602-828-1885
Wealth of knowledge, great guy, no hard selling. He put me in my Dominator X4-1000 and love the machine!
All my ATV buddies I ride with couldn’t believe my UTV went everywhere their ATV’s went. After driving my UTV some are now making the switch to the UTV side x side.
Good luck and happy trails
Michael
Sorry Steve sent post to you vs another. Please disregard
I do think the 72″ would be too much for what I’m interested in doing after reading your input and researching even more.
Thanks again.
October 8, 2020. This morning my good friend Ken and I did a lube, oil change, air filter change, and blew out the clutch box. WOW. Fluids were not discolored or real dirty, but the engine oil was fairly dark. Engine air filter was virtually clean other than the finger prints I got on it being clumsy, changed it any way been on for a 100 hours and numerous very dusty rides.
We pulled the clutch box cover off to check the belt and clean it out. OPPS. There was very, very little dust in the clutch box. Ken determined that most of that was probably belt dust.
Conclusion: With 8026 miles and 560.2 hours on my 2015 Polaris Ranger XP 900 my air intake mode works exactly like it thought it would.
Happy as a pig in $#!……. MUD.
Contacted Trinity and they are sending some shims to correct the issue. Hope it does the trick…
Thanks, I guess you confirmed what I was thinking!!
I’m not from out west, but we primarily trail ride in Michigan. We ride with several larger 72″ (plus) machines, but there are limitations there. Keep in mind that X3 4 seat is not only 72″ wide, but also 13’+ long….its a HUGE machine in general (awesome, but huge). My personal preference for trail riding is a 64″ machine. I feel like the 72″ units will do better in wide open spaces and in the desert. This is personal opinion and I’m sure that there are many who do run 72″ units that will disagree. Hopefully someone will chime in that is more familiar with your area.
Yeah, no way around that with the 30 whopping HP I had on that machine. I did go to the dunes with them once and aired them down to about 3psi and they did ok. In terms of on the tails, they were way better than stock, but as you said, sand robs power no matter what. I was very impressed with them in general and was shocked with how well they did in the snow. Only drawback was with that tread pattern, they did wear fairly fast on the pavement. I guess that’s the case with any soft compound off road tire though.
I agree w/ that approach. It almost looks like that tail pipe is part of the muffler end cap. I wonder if it was welded or somehow crimped inside and that came loose. I would take the end cap off to see what happened before you call Trinity personally. Keep us posted.
I know you ride in Mich, so do they give good flotation in all that loose sand? When your tires sink in the sand it robs all your hp.
Should I be posting this in some other group or category?
Thanks for the reply. Realized I should’ve posted pics originally… screws holding plate are tight and nothing has occurred to cause the tube to change direction unless it happened internally. Didn’t want to break anything down in case anyone had advice. Probably just going to reach out to Trinity to see if I can get any assistance
Never had a trinity. I wonder if its one of the twin muffler style systems if the 2 mufflers are just held by a clamp and that clamp needs to be snugged up.
PS…pics always help 🙂
On my Ranger I had the Highlifter Outlaw MST’s. They are aggressive looking, but have a flat tread block. I really liked them for the trails. They did very well in everything including mud and snow. Worth a look anyway.
I think it’s already there Mark. I do understand the trend towards luxury, opens up the market to more people but at the same time I think some people should stay away from this aspect of off roading. I also realize the top end is expensive but when you start whining about the jerky starts, squeaks and dust, maybe you should stick to your Range Rover.
For the ridiculous prices they are getting to be they should be a lot nicer than what they are, A LOT nicer.
Glad your good to go, keep us posted on what your doing with it
Glad to hear your good to go, run the wheels off it and keep us posted.
Altimate Motorsportss , Menasha. Look for a Massimo dealer as they now own Odes. There is a place down by madison as well, I just can’t remember the name
701 power sports or motorcycle doctor
Also, before anyone ask, I have no clue if it’s throwing an engine code because the current display has every light possible constantly illuminated. (High beams, 4 ways, CEL, EPS, oil pressure, battery). For a reason unknown to me they come on and stay on as soon as the key is turned on.
Does anyone know of a ODES dealer I can order parts from?
Did that fix the issue?
Yep. Won’t be any issues.
Thanks for the update. Its nice to have a final report/ issue resolution.
I almost wonder if there was some air in the system that blead itself out or something. I know the Polaris machines can take several attempts to get all the air out.
Just wanted to post a follow..post break in my machine is no longer experiencing the issue of overheating. It’s a great little sxs now and really like it. If anything changes I’ll let you all know.. maybe the engines are tight when fresh? I don’t know but good luck with yours.
I have a 2013 900xp. It ran fine all weekend and come Sunday morning it would not start. Fires great, pulled the pugs, very dry and no spark. I can hear the pump when I turn on. Got home washed and continued to investigate. Checked all the wiring I can find and everything seems to be tight. I changed the spark plugs and checked spark, I still have no spark. I have checked all the fuses and they all seem fine. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance, Dan
I would lean towards the pro or the xp turbo myself and stick with the 64”. I live and ride in Minnesota. Not mush use for the 72” machine.
With that said. If I was going west and riding dunes and such. The 72” would be an obvious choice.
I think I would lean Honda myself. Excellent machines in general. Better parts and service support as well.
Most cases +1 won’t cause many issues.
I think your better off with the name brand vs the others. Now with that said, a lot of the Honda guy’s that say they are bullet proof are ones who had them years ago, me included but today you’ll find they have problems just like everyone else.
Is your steering incredibly hard to turn where you have to use incredible strength to turn the wheel? We had a tough time figuring it when it happened to my 2015 Dominator 800 4x. The shop was finally able to find that I had a broken shifting fork in the front that was keeping me from disengaging from 4 wheel drive. The fork cost $12.95 but hard to get. We believe it broke because of switching from 2 to 4 wheel drive while stuck and the wheels were engaged in movement it slams the shifting fork over and snaps it. Just a thought!
Honda all the way
My harness melted. Just ran new wire. It runs now but my display only gives a back light as well. It started with the fuel gauge showing empty then it all shorted out. I’m assuming mine is fried but I’m interested if anyone has a fix.
Mine did the same thing. Just about finished running new wire. The harness from the headlights through the taillights had melted in to one giant short. The grounds are tied in with the efi. It looked like it began with and unhooked plug that didn’t go to anything. Check your wires in the the back and go from there. Mine will run now but I think the display is fried. I have a good pdf schematic if you need it.
Hello,
I finally got the time to do the inspection operation.
First, THANKS SO MUCH for the accurate description and pics!!!
Upon inspection the tensioner moved freely.
I’m left with a worry/question…
When I took the plunger (Bolt in center) bolt off, I didn’t realize there’d be a long spring there captive to it. When I re-installed it, it fed in but caught on something. So I finagled a bit and then it fed in freely a bit more. There was tension after that, I can imagine that was where the spring actually started to compress under tension. (?)
I’m just a bit worried it caught on something else and isn’t fully in there.
If that spring didn’t go all the way into where it needed to go….if I did something wrong, what is my indication?
If I did something wrong and start the motor, is it immediately going to jump time and result in a catastrophic failure?
If I start the motor and there is some sort of odd noise, is it too late? Or can I stop the motor and try to re-install the tensioner to remedy this?
My 2nd worry is;
I didn’t realize there was a gasket in play. When taking the tensioner off, it left a bit of gasket around the bolt holes upon removal.
I can always go get another gasket but in the meantime, is that under pressure? Will oil squirt out of there with the engine running?
For those that will attempt this operation in the future….
Beware that the center bolt (plunger bolt) has a spring behind it.
The Allen wrench needed for the two mounting bolts is 5mm.
The plunger bolt is 12mm socket.
I’m not sure , but I will check it for you.
I am the YXZ Nation 🙂
There is 100% a return line all fuel injection systems have a return line if you don’t have fuel coming from it more than likely it’s a regulator issue
Keep the faith!
Lemon laws vary by state. In Michigan, it only applies to cars and trucks. Not to motorhomes, off road vehicles or similar.
I can say that my sister in law went thru the lemon law process on a Hyundai car. It took months and she still was not made whole. It was a mess.
The other option may be to try and sell it disclosing the issue and get close to whole and move on. The used market is on fire right now. You may find it sells even with the issue and does so quickly. Not ideal, but something to consider.
Thanks, yes Bass Pro ordered one for me.
Scott, You need to contact Lemon Law Group Robert Colao 888 415-0610 robert@lemomlawgrouppartners.com
I removed my cat and muffler it’s well worth it. Mine is a 15 Dominator 800 X2 .I cut the cat off just past the crimp that holds it to a piece of flex pipe.Then you can slide a piece of 2″ exhaust pipe mines 9″ long then slid a 2″ inlet and 2 outlet on car glasspack worked great.welded a tab on the side of the glasspack bolted to the old original bolt on the frame.I hat a deep tone and not really that loud. Well worth the $21.00 for the glasspack and pipe.I need to rappel the exhaust pipe with header wrap for heat control. The exhaust points straight out the back.
What brand of powerstearing unit did you have put on. I’m thinking about put one on this winter after I get some of the other modifications I want to do..
My understanding is Odes Industries filed BK. Odes China disbanded their relationship with them due to monies owed.
Odes China started a relationship with Bennche.
I bought mine in January 2020. Everything in it says Odes but the title says Bennche. I’ve had no problems thus far.
I bought mine at PBO Powersports in Phoenix AZ. The owner Brent, great guy. Said the CEO of USA Odes Industries took him off the approved dealers list due to a disagreement the two of them had.
The CEO of Odes China made Brent an approved Bennche dealer under the new partnership.
Here’s the service manual for the 2020 Dominator X4/x2 1000 Bennche/Odes. Something in there might help you out.
Hi DRBG, I run 91 octane in mine and have no problems.
Yep…that 4yr warranty isnt worth much now is it??
You are absolutely correct…bs it is! The dealer should start replacing parts until the problem is fixed! I would definetly post your troubles on every forum you can find, call your local news people and get them to do a public relations story on this.
If you financed the unit call your bank, you may have the right to with hold the payment until it gets fixed.
It would be in there best interest to start replacing all the electronic bits one at a time until the problem gets resolved!!
I know the folks at my local Bass Pro, believe I will mention the poor service on these machines and perhaps let them know the word is spreading about poor service on these machines. If you have some spare time, go to your local BP store and let the customers know how your being treated….wish I could do more…
Dealer and parts support cant be under rated.
I purchased a 2019 Comrade 650.
Came with windshield, winch, trailer hitch and ball, roof, EFI, EPS, 4 year on engine…. $7500 in all and it cake with freenshipping,
Had trouble with charge…. bad rectifier. I fixed it myself. Got a new one off net for $20.
Problem I had was dealership too far.
Once reg/rect was fixed machhine is a tank.
I use it around ranch daily.
Now I find that Odes is in bankrupt. Dealership closed.
I understand that SC is picking up the Odes line except for the Comrade.
Not sure now where to get parts at all.
Check with Bass Pro of Cabelas as they are the dealers for those. If all else fails go to “Cyclepedia” as they make manuals for many of the not so popular brands. I have both the online and a hardcopy service manual for my Kymco
Look up Pile Driver quick attatch mount, you dont get under the machine to attach.
Pick up blade with winch and it snaps into place, lift a lever to unhook and the plow drops down and you drive away. Super heavy duty, I made the mount so it bolts on for winter use, then remove 6 bolts and it is gone for summer riding. Hangs down less then 1 and a half inches. No excess stress on front frame like front mounts can cause.
Thanks RetiredGuy! That manual will be extremely helpful. In that picture you weren’t too far off from my neck of the woods in the phoenix area. Did you buy it around there, and if so, how was the purchase experience?
Do you happen to have that ECU tuner part number? Also, what kind of top end speed difference did you get from it?
I really like the heat shield idea. Will definitely take that under consideration.
Thanks again.
I’ve been thinking of making my own. I thought I’d see what ours have done. I’m not sure how much I like the mount hanging mid way under the machine. Seems to me it would be a hassle to unhook/ remove, but I could be wrong. I thought it would be easy to find a solution, but ive looked at several universal plows and you have to get this and that and what have you to make a kit. It’s begun to make my head spin. If been looking at the Denali kits and the odes dominator kit front mount looks like it is very close to what i need. Of course I contacted them and 0 help on dimensions or anything.
I’d start at the key switch.
No belts, tripple motor and goes fast;)
They I guess I would buy the one that has the biggest batteries.
Consider making your own….my Kymco had only a cheap universal mount availiable at the time I bought mine. Dropped the belly pan and created my own mid-mount. Works great, I went with a quick attach and release pile driver plow blade, veey heavy duty and can be on in two minutes. Good luck to you.
I bought mine in January 2020. So far extremely happy with the ride. Spent time 4 wheeling on the rim in AZ and all my friends ATVs were in awe that I went everywherethey went with a more comfortable ride. I had an ECU tuner put in mine which added lower end power and top end speed. It woke the engine up!
Also because of heat transfer from the engine & exhaust pipes I completely took the interior seats, doghouse and floor boards out and lined the underside of everything I could and wrapped the exhaust pipes from manifold to under the back tilt bed with heat shield products. Here’s the website: Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material & youtube vids links: Heatshield Products Inc – YouTube 90% of the heat transfer does get into the cab as it dies stock.
I attached pics as well as a copy of the service manual my dealer was kind enough to give to me.
Breaking in I patiently & painstakingly never went over 25mph the 1st 250 miles. I believe that is a reason my vehicle has had no engine or transmission problems. But everyone has different views on breaking a vehicle in.
So far I couldn’t be happier, moved to Twin Falls Idaho and looking forward to getting into the back country with my Bennche.
Enjoy and stay safe always!
I bought mine in January 2020. So far extremely happy with the ride. I had an ECU tuner put in mine which added lower end power and top end speed. It woke the engine up!
Also because of heat transfer from the engine & exhaust pipes I completely took the interior seats, doghouse and floor boards out and lined the underside of everything I could and wrapped the exhaust pipes from manifold to under the back tilt bed with heat shield products. Here’s the website: Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material & youtube vids links: Heatshield Products Inc – YouTube
Unless there’s a kit you can buy it will require quite a bit of fabrication. I turned a 4×4 into a 6×6 so everything was custom. I made the frame longer and just extended the drive shaft between the center diff and rear diff to keep all the A-arm and suspension geometry factory. Good luck
I had this exact same problem on a 700 Ranger, it was the crankshaft position sensor. I had spark, removed the injectors and was spraying great. So I figured it was electrical and traced it down to the crankshaft position sensor. When I removed it, it was rusted and look terrible. I didn’t consider my ecm/ecu as it was new.
Looks good with the Pioneer….would look better with a Talon :eek::)
Thanks for the reply! I figured I’ll keep the kill switch and save the money for the time being.
No problem! I’ve barely got to ride mine. Bought it needing some work and am slowly getting everything lined out. Currently waiting on a fuel pump to come in and it should be good to go. Hopefully I’ll be able to give you a little more insight in the next week or two lol fingers crossed
Several
Through the link on the Facebook page
Thanks for the info abeane94, greatly appreciated!
Just curious, how are you liking your ride? Any issues?
They make an electric utv?
YXZ!
Awesome….thanks for sharing!
Top speed on the dominator is advertised to be 63mph. I’d be lying to you if I put a number on the turning radius. But, it’s pretty good. As far as water, the air intake and cvt intake is in the middle under the dog house with both being positioned at the top. Roughly sternum high when you’re sitting in it.
On top of what Pede said:
Not sure on the 800’s, but a loose valve adjustment MAY cause this, or at least contribute and is worth a quick check. I would also check fuel pressure which should be somewhere in the 39-41 range (typically). There are cost effective EFI test gauges available online as well as at Harbor Freight. Compression check done?
PS….I’m sure its happened in a SXS, but I have not heard of a key shearing and causing this. Its one of the first places I go in old outboards and small engines, I just cant recall that ever being the issue on a SXS.
Keep us posted.
Any codes? could be a crank position sensor or ECU, not at lest popping has me scratching my head.
Not sure which display you’re looking for but I think you might be able to find it on this site. I linked the page showing the 10.6″ display here:
X4-1000
Hope it helps!
Yes sir you’re right about that lol
I have a 2018 Dominator 800. It was missing at idle, surging and would die as soon as you hit the throttle. I’ve also got a bad pressure regulator on my fuel pump causing similar issues but after replacing and calibrating the tps it at least idles right now and can give it gas without it dying. Just a huge lack of power from not getting enough fuel.
Has anyone tried to install the Sylvanial hid h13s in a Polaris Ranger?
I bought a pair of Sylvania Ultra bulbs that were a direct change as far as the H13 base and installed them yesterday. I am guessing I got about a 20 maybe 25 percent increase in light and brightness. I won’t know for sure until I get another good night ride in. I took the buggy for a brief ride in the neighborhood and I think it was better.
While do the exchange I took the opportunity to tighten the headlight adjustment screw and adjust the headlights again.
Yup, turf mode. Sure saves on the lawn
I’ve read you can get 28s on there pretty easy, and that the 500 is geared low enough to handle them fine. Saw one guy on 30s but it looked like a wreck waiting to happen
Ended up buying a new ranger 1000, no roof, no windshield, no winch.
But no headaches (hopefully)
Hello, a lot of these SXS’s have an electronic motor that engages and disengages right at the diff. It could be stuck or a wire shorted out, possibly just a bad switch. Good luck and hope you find the problem.
Hello, I haven’t had this problem but chasing electrical issues is one of the hardest things to diagnose. I’m not sure how much money you want to sink into it but if your kill switch works then keep it, I would definitely add some kind of battery disconnect. Sound like an ecm/ecu problem though.
They seem to have a lot of issues, but at that price and the way the market is right now, buy it, put it together and sell it for a nice profit.
What year Odes do you have? Is it a 1000 or 800? What was your machine acting like when you were having issues?
After watching some YouTube videos I’ve found out that the switch is for the posi track rearend. Figured I’d update in case anyone else was wondering.
Found it, Gilomen, not as extensive as I thought didn’t have any old stuff. Normally it takes about 2 years for the cheap downloads to show up.
I wish that was around. Free service literature is hard to come by on these it seems. When I bought my General I bit the very big bullet and spent the big bucks on the OEM manual. I figure if it saved me one trip to the dealer it would pay me back.
You can try service manual vault. They gave many, but not all. If I recall right, they were a few years behind.
First, I am by no reason an “expert” however, I do my research, ad nauseum. At work, we have used Can-Ams, Kawsawkis, Hondas & pretty much everything Polaris makes w/ 4 wheels (except that RZR 1). I work w/ dumb, young, inexperienced “adults” who drive it like they stole it, put jet fuel in the tanks, swap front w/ rear tires and all matters of shenanigans. Having said all that, when it came time to buy a personal SXS, we bought a Polaris Ranger 1000XP Crew. We added the roof & winch from Polaris, then added some lights, doors, etc. We use ours for skidding logs, hauling hay, hauling large dogs and grandsons across the ranch, trail riding w/ friends, etc. Look, sit, feel, drive and make your choice about what’s best for you! Best wishes & hope you enjoy your ride!
I am a Polaris guy, but I have a friend who needed a 6+ seater and bought a Kawasaki Mule Pro FXT and he loves it. He had to get it because he goes hunting a lot with a group of guys. I have another friend who owns a Ranger Crew XP 900 EPS and likes that one a lot as well. These are just large machines so it boils down to types of riding you do and cargo. Hopefully this helps.
No. Just don’t roll the motor over at all with the cam chain tension loose.
Do I have to have timing marks somewhere lined up before I do this?
Good to know. Just in case. Thanks for the information, Rockzalot!:D
I just pulled my factory service manual on this….
“Cam Chain Tensioner Inspection”
1) Locate the cam chain tensioner on the MAG side of the engine near the starter.
2) Remove the plunger bolt and spring
3) Remove the two tensioner mounting bolts
4) Push the tensioner lock and manually move the plunger in and out. It should move freely. If it does not, replace the tensioner assy.
5) Retract the plunger all the way in and install into the cyl.
6) Install the 2 mounting bolts. Torque to spec.
7) Install the plunger bolt. Torque fastener to spec.
Torque Specs:
– Mounting bolts: 7 ft/lb
– Plunger bolt: 15 ft/ lb
I don’t know how many but a group of top executives from Textron bought the Polaris brand, most of the tooling was worn out and shortly after bought tooling from John Deere as they were getting out of snowmobiles and the rest they say is history, wish I’d have bought stock back then.
Exactly. It will cool what is in the radiator, but not the coolant in the engine. The coolant in the engine probably rises in temp after shut down. I know mine goes up a few degrees after I kill it.
Accurate. I was bummed when I saw Textron using the Arctic Cat name to essentially bury debt. I hope Cat can survive as Polaris did back in the day.
Textron owned Polaris at one time, just about eliminated them from the market.
Leaving the key on after shutting it off does nothing. If the coolant isn’t circulating from the engine running it isn’t cooling.
I do my maintenance and have no issues that are the machine’s fault. Had to replace a couple of axles over the years, a fuel pump once, belts, but to me that is routine stuff, not a manufacturing or QA issue. I’m very pleased with all the Polaris Rangers I’ve owned.
I really don’t know anything about them. There are no resources out there. When the company went belly up the owner took a job at Hisun/Massimo in the Dallas area. I used to know his name and I tried to get info from him but they won’t let you contact him at the business and he won’t answer emails about the Titans. Good luck.
I was just given a Titan Scout however I can’t find an owner’s manual yet alone someone to help me get it running. It may just need batteries but I’m not sure which batteries to purchase as I heard the wrong ones can burn up the charging system. Any advice on this? Can you use other parts from other UTVs??
I had something like that awhile ago,check spark plugs and wires to start with, the cap that went on the coil was torn, new plug wires and problem solved.
Ok the threads on the shifter rod transmission end where stripped and the jam nut wasn’t able to lock up. I cheated the rod towards the shifter got good threads and so far just on the stand everything is working
Look at both for ergonomics for you and your group. I think both are excellent machines and choices. I have had few issues with my Polaris machines. Haters gonna hate. 🙂
Thanks Ron.
I have owned nothing but Polaris. As with everything you read about things that someone is unhappy with because they are unhappy and want to complain so they take the time to do just that! Untrue with those that are happy with things because the are enjoying it and don’t have time to write about it. Don’t get me wrong they all have there issues as with everything that is man made. When comes time to buy my next SXS I wont look at anything but Polaris!:cool:
Yes, removed air filter and housing so I could see direct into throttle body. Also propped it open with screwdriver and tried stating fluid. Cylinders have 150 psi compression. Have changed 90 % of the sensors and the voltage regulator. The parts that I didn’t change have swapped with another machine to prove they work
This is probably going to sound stupid but, is the engine getting significant air? Blocked air filter or maybe the throttle body not opening.
Thanks. I have always loved my Polaris sleds.
When in neutral (freely move the vehicle to verify) the shifter arm should be at 90 degrees to the console. Reconnect your linkage and you should be fine. I bought a used ODES Dominator 800 (2013) – the previous owners had tried to force the shift lever into the gear they wanted so that the lever was actually bent. I straightened it out and then put it at 90 degrees as per the ODES manual(?) guidelines. If you are having difficulty shifting in and out of gear after verifying your shifter position (which still happens for me at times) just increase your RPMs above the normal RPM once or twice, let the RPMs die down and then it should freely move into the forward, reverse, neutral or Park that you need.
Does anybody know of any aftermarket A arms that will separate the rear tires on the 2014 Polaris Ranger 800 6×6, OR can you show me pics of a machine that has at least 28″ tires on it ! I’d like to put 28×9- 14″ on mine without doing some crazzy 6″ lift. Thanks in advance
Don’t believe everything you read, if I had to venture a guess about 85% of the “quality” issues are self inflicted, then look at the numbers, way more units on the market then anyone else will make it appear to have more issues.
Well, one issue is the result of the other. If your fan isn’t coming on, your engine/radiator will overheat and pressurize the reservoir which will force the water out of the overflow.
Now, the bigger issue is figuring out why the fan isn’t coming on.
The most common reason is that the electrical connector has come loose from the fan or you have gotten water in the connector and/or blown the fuse due to a short. A less likely scenario is that the temp sensor has failed or the ECU which controls the fan has had a failure. If you have a temp gauge on the display and it shows the engine temperature changing then it but the sensor.
To troubleshoot:
1. Check the fuse! In your owners manual find the fuse for the fan and check it. If it’s blown replace it, if it blows again you have a short, if it’s not blown keep looking…
2. Find the wires coming from the fan, follow them to the first connector you find. Carefully unplug the connector make sure there is no water or dirt in the connector, clean if there is. If you have dielectric grease, put a little on the contacts and around the seal and reconnect it. Run until it gets up to temp and see if the fan comes on, if it doesn’t keep looking…
3. Continue following the wires as far as you can looking for damage or breaks in the wires, if you come across another connector check it too.
Testing the fan and/or wires… you will need a test light or multimeter.
1. Testing for power: Run the machine until it gets up to temperature. Shut off your machine and disconnect the fan connector. Attach your test light or multimeter probes to the contacts on the connector. Start your machine and let it run for a few more minutes to make sure it’s back up to temp. If the test light comes on or your multimeter reads 12v then you are getting power to the connector and the problem is your fan. If you are not getting power to the connector then the problem is a break in your wires or the fan controller in your ECU.
2. Testing your fan: you will need a 12v battery, 12v source, or jumpers from the battery on the machine. CAUTION: Using this method will cause your fan to start spinning unexpectedly.
Disconnect the fan connector. Using small electrical probes or wires, connect one lead to the positive pole of the battery and one to the negative then carefully touch each probe the two contacts in the connector connected to the fan. (DO NOT APPLY POWER TO THE SIDE LEADING TO THE ECU! You can severely damage your ECU.)
After you have successfully applied power and the fan has not come on then it’s probably a bad fan but i would take it to a mechanic to double check. If the fan dies come on then the problem is either in the wires leading to the ECU or in the fan controller in the ECU. Again, you can take it to a mechanic to double check or just buy the parts
NOTE: Things that can damage your fan…
Driving in deep water or pressure washing can allow water to enter the fan motor or connector causing a short.
Driving in mud or collecting excessive mud in the fan or radiator can cause the fan to seize. If the fan tries to start and is packed with mud it will burn up the motor.
If the wires are not properly secured to the frame, vibration can cause the wires to break or short.
Hope this helps, good luck!
Try Motorcycle Dr. in Camdenton M0. he has a wealth of knowledge and also parts. Massimo/ Bennech bought Odes, try a dealer there for parts also.
In most cases you need to use a front tire/wheel combo as a spare if your carrying only one spare. The front will fit on the rear but a rear will not work on the front due to width. Your only using it in an emergency or to get back to your trailer.
Yes, as Ken said, that is super common for CVT’s without some sort of engine braking. My old Ranger didn’t have engine braking and it took a minute to learn to hit the throttle to slow down :eek:. I used to call the move the “Polaris 2 step” ;).
The free wheeling part is standard for a cvt unless you have an engine braking system, by slightly pushing the throttle you are engaging the belt which will then work as an engine brake system. Some are automatic and others need to be engaged with slight pressure on the throttle.
I purchased an Odes Comrade in August 2019 then come to find they are in bankruptcy.
When I got machine it would not charge. Tried to get help from Odes but now no one answers so had to figure prob out myself. I changed the stator and regulator which cured the trouble. After that the machine is a tank.
I haven’t been able to find a parts supplier. Had to find items on the net to replace them.
I am concerned about future troubles. Does anyone know where I can get parts in the future? The machine I have is the Comrade 650 2019. Help! I’d hate to have to junk this machine for lack of parts access.
I have a problem when machine is cold. When going downhill it will freewheel like the clutch is overrunning. If I just gently touch the throttle the clutch catches again and is fine. From what I have been told this appears to be a common thing for CTV transmissions. Anyone else have this problem? Again, HELP!!
Thanks
Brad
My personal preference would lean HEAVILY toward the Can Am.
I am 99% sure that you cant unless you are street legal. If I recall correctly, the main road that leads from the ferry into town does not allow SXS past a certain point. Again, if memory serves me right, you are ok on this road going from the east side of the island west until you get to the main intersection in town. Past that point, no SXS allowed.
Yeah, you are good. Drain and re-fill with proper. Don’t loose any sleep.
Probably not…. But, depending on the level of dust you encounter, many manufacturers will consider this on the “extreme” side of the spectrum for determining your service intervals. Same thing with cold weather operation which can lead to more condensation in the oil if you do shorter trips or runs.
NO
I plan to start taking long trips with my wife in my General. I don’t push envelopes, like going extreme off-road and jumping things and doing 50 on trail I don’t know and haven’t been down. Mostly I just go the speed limit. It is more exploration than anything else. Fun with land navigation while just cruising.
But still, the place I want to go is a long way out and I’m not sure there is cell reception there.
So if I were to bring spare parts, what is recommended? If I were to build a tool kit to support the extra parts, what tools should I bring? I want to make up a shadow boxed kit of tools.
I plan to bring a 2 gallon can of gas.
Also, fix-a-flat? Or a spare? I’m just not sure I can fit a spare and would probably have to buy a mount.
This is a day trip planned but it will be a long day trip.
There is some wildlife up in that area that should not be underestimated. Nothing like Alaska but still…..
I definitely will bring a first aid kit, flashlights and food/water.
Just wondering about the likely parts that could break and tools needed on a long day cruise in possible high heat.
Its dry and dusty along that way.
Thanks,
M
Thanks guys!
Parts used in CVT & Engine air intake modifications:
K&N RG-1003RD-L Universal Clamp-On Air Filter which is according to K&N a High Performance, Premium, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 2.75 In, Filter Height: 4.5 In, Flange Length: 1 In, Shape: Round Tapered
2” PVC Pipe parts used for air intake: 90° elbow, straight coupling, 2” x 2” White PVC pipe.
The primary air intake hose is directly behind the driver’s seat and I used the straight coupling and a piece of the PVC pipe to go into the air intake hose and clamped it tight.
I cut the coupling down to about 1.5” length
The pipe fittings being a little larger fit inside the air filter throat snuggly then the band clamp is tightened.
Then the 2” PVC Pipe fits into the straight coupling and then into the air intake hose and the band clamp is tightened.
I used the 90° coupling on the CVT to put the filter under the back rest of the passenger seat.
I used a K&N Black Precharger Filter Wrap to go over the top of both filters held in place with large rubber bands.
I lucked out with the CVT filter it is supported with the elbow just fine, but the primary air filter behind the driver’s seat wants to work its way out due to vibration. To remedy that I fashioned a hold down clamp out of 1” steel banding. That is held in place with two small bolts. One side of the hold down is a nylock nut and the other is a wing nut to allow for easy removal for cleaning.
It’s for the most part the same oil just different viscosity.
No problem.
I have everything to change all the fluids. I don’t get to come home enough to have time to check the tensioner. Labor Day weekend will give me more time and I can attempt that. I still don’t know how to rotate the engine to line up the timing marks.
How critical is it to check that after 200 hours?
I am also a big guy 6’5″ and tipping the scales at the right weight to be around 7’…. I ended up purchasing a yamaha Viking VI wich I have had for 3 years now. I have been very happy with it. We have 4 kids…. plenty of room and utility. I wish I had more power sometimes (700CC), but then again, it will hit close to 50 MPH and I dont need to go any faster.
Good luck and enjoy whatever you get…….
Shop around for you Polaris Oil and filters. Rocky Mountain ATV is fairly decent sometimes. That said, if you find a dealer/stealership with decent prices do some price comparisons and don’t be afraid to ask for price matching, the dealerships have a pretty good price markup to work with.
OK I found a video of a tensioner install for a RZR. Not sure if it would be the same on my General. The manual says to check the tensioner. So does that mean to pull that cover and look at the cam timing mark position and see if the belt looks tight and not slacking?
Here is my next question; Is the tensioner there to keep that chain tight so it doesn’t jump off those timing gears or jump timing?
Last time I bought oil and filter at the Polaris dealer, it was a bit steep in price. Any suggestions of what brand of oil others here use for their General 1000’s?
Sorry for all the questions,
M
The idea is to search for and view a video “how-to” specific for the vehicle in question.
It is a common problem the impeller is too small. I am putting an electric water pump from a Prius on my Ravager shortly.
By the way, the water was boiling and blowing out the radiator. And now that I think about it, the radiator wasn’t always hot. Just the water boiling out of the overflow.
I’m thinking it is the impeller on the water pump. I just bought an electric water pump for a Toyota Prius and I’m going to give that a shot. The hose size on the water pump is the same size as the hoses on the Ravager. There will be a consistent flow of coolant, especially at low speed mud and climbs. I will let you all know if this works.
Are you able to ride right from the Trek to the Ferry and onto the Island?
That video is good for that particular auto but the Polaris tensioner is not like that one.
The cams have to be positioned correctly to keep from getting slack in the chain when the tensioner is removed and the reset is different when the tensioner is reinstalled.
It would probably be better to look at a video that is specifically about the Polaris which are available but I can’t link to or get a shop manual which will have specific step by step instructions on how to do it.
Check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDHk_EuC2Go
On your maintenance chart the ‘maintenance interval’ means every time you turn over 100 hours you should change the oil, etc.
Start at the top and go down.
Some things you check before every ride
Some things every 25 hours.
The engine oil and filter, transmission and front differential change every 100 hours or 1000 miles.
Change brake fluid every two years or 200 hours.
Change coolant every 60 months.
It is all there in the chart. You will just need to familiarize yourself with it.
Nice to hear your out riding Gary! I have not been around much here either sadly not been our riding much either hope to change that soon.
I have an owners manual, that’s how I found out the 200 hour service recommendations which I listed before. The ratcheting cam chain tensioner is something I don’t know how to adjust.
How often should I do an engine oil change?
How often should I change the plugs?
It doesn’t actually say in the manual or I missed it.
M
There is no return line for the fuel. That is a tank vent. Did you get a clean spark and good compression
So it’s not flooding. I have replaced the voltage regulator the TPS and the still no luck. Is there anything that electrically will advance or retard the timing?
Check the brake fluid level at every service/oil change. I would recommend you buy or download an Owners Manual for your machine Most all you needed information is in there along with a lot of critical info.
Apparently, I am over 200 hours on the engine now.
The manual says two things at 200. hours;
Ratcheting Cam Chain Tensioner. (I have no idea what that is and where that is)
Brake Fluid. This one is self explanatory but I can’t tell whether its saying check the level or change the fluid completely out.
So what does others on this forum do at 200 hours? I will say its running fine.
Do y’all recommend getting Polaris brand fluids or will other fluids at the auto parts store do?
I appreciate anyone’s input,
M